Pictafiedesign
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- Joined
- Jul 11, 2023
- Messages
- 173
Landed is landed whether it's half off the frame or not LMFAO
Chop Shop Builds
- Thread starter UR_Mawm69
- Start date
4xFoorOffroad
Active member
Acetone and red scotchbrite (wearing gloves)
UR_Mawm69
Well-known member
I WORKED ON IT LAST NIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'd say the frame is about 96% prepped.
next up, remove the beams/rad arms/brake lines and clean all that up.................
I'd say the frame is about 96% prepped.
next up, remove the beams/rad arms/brake lines and clean all that up.................
UR_Mawm69
Well-known member
and the people who said acetone to take the shit off...........
you were too late. i had papa grab a couple cans of brake cleaner on his way home yesterday.
i can use brake cleaner, right? that kills everything and strips off paint.........
you were too late. i had papa grab a couple cans of brake cleaner on his way home yesterday.
i can use brake cleaner, right? that kills everything and strips off paint.........
UR_Mawm69
Well-known member
UR_Mawm69
Well-known member
UR_Mawm69
Well-known member
Didn't get much done tonight, but still something.
Got the brake lines off, beam and rad arms bolts loosened, only to figure out that I need to pull the trans cross member to fucking pull the bolts out. I planned on finding this type of shit all over.......
Friends daughters wanted to come help and learn......
THEYRE 15 AND 13 YOU SICK FUCKS....
....... so i let the older one learn how to use a grinder, while the 13 y/o played with brogan and kept him busy/occupied.
Got the brake lines off, beam and rad arms bolts loosened, only to figure out that I need to pull the trans cross member to fucking pull the bolts out. I planned on finding this type of shit all over.......
Friends daughters wanted to come help and learn......
THEYRE 15 AND 13 YOU SICK FUCKS....
....... so i let the older one learn how to use a grinder, while the 13 y/o played with brogan and kept him busy/occupied.
Attachments
UR_Mawm69
Well-known member
Beams and rad arms off.
Got impatient and realized I had to jack the trans up, dismount that, and have it sitting on jackstands as well. I didn't want that while I fucked with all the other shit.
So I just cut the rad arms bolts. Figured they were different grade, differently length, and different dia with the way all the other shit was unfolding.
Knew I'd be getting ALL new bolts, nuts and hardware. So I said fuck it. Hah.
Got impatient and realized I had to jack the trans up, dismount that, and have it sitting on jackstands as well. I didn't want that while I fucked with all the other shit.
So I just cut the rad arms bolts. Figured they were different grade, differently length, and different dia with the way all the other shit was unfolding.
Knew I'd be getting ALL new bolts, nuts and hardware. So I said fuck it. Hah.
UR_Mawm69
Well-known member
Newb kaweschion.
I got a case of brake cleaner..... and I got my helper/friends son..... do I just tell him to take some scotch brite pads and spray the shit that's got paint on it, then scratch it with the pads?!?!? Till it's all clean?!?!?
I got a case of brake cleaner..... and I got my helper/friends son..... do I just tell him to take some scotch brite pads and spray the shit that's got paint on it, then scratch it with the pads?!?!? Till it's all clean?!?!?
UR_Mawm69
Well-known member
Just so I can list it out, he can:
1. Cut all the lower shock tabs and bump pads off the beams
2. Clean it up with the brake cleaner & get all the paint off everywhere
3. Remove trans/motor, at least pull it off the mounts/FWD............
1. Cut all the lower shock tabs and bump pads off the beams
2. Clean it up with the brake cleaner & get all the paint off everywhere
3. Remove trans/motor, at least pull it off the mounts/FWD............
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4xFoorOffroad
Active member
Eh, soak a rag in the brake clean and let it sit on or vigorously wipe the spot you want it to clean the paint off of. The reason I like acetone is it’s cheaper but same deal anyway. The solvent needs time to reactivate the paint in order to make it soft and easy to remove. Brake clean evaporates so fast it doesn’t have time to really soften the paint.
Make sure you wear nitrile gloves or your skin will get all cracked around your fingernails if you’re anything like (or as old ~40 as) me.
Make sure you wear nitrile gloves or your skin will get all cracked around your fingernails if you’re anything like (or as old ~40 as) me.
UR_Mawm69
Well-known member
Fuckme.
Ok, acetone and nitrile gloves.
Theeeennn..... soak the scotch brite pads un the acetone, then vigorously rub the beams/frame?
Orrrr....? I can't exactly "soak the beams in the acetone"
Or should I just wipe the acetone on the beams/frame sections and let it sit for...... 30min? An hour? 69min?
Then vigorously rub the beams/frame?
Thanks brooooooham
4xFoorOffroad
Active member
69 seconds - it really depends on the paint too.
Home Depot spray paint will wipe right up and scratch off with acetone rags / scotchbrite.
Factory paint on my Toyota takes a bit more exposure to the brake clean / acetone etc. Sandpaper can be your friend too, but scotchbrite can be formed into smaller tighter areas.
Trial and error will give a better idea of how this stuff works on your truck the fastest based on what is on the frame.
Try to keep the stuff from going up your nose too - it can be harmful / give you a headache if inhaled for different timeframes for different people.
Home Depot spray paint will wipe right up and scratch off with acetone rags / scotchbrite.
Factory paint on my Toyota takes a bit more exposure to the brake clean / acetone etc. Sandpaper can be your friend too, but scotchbrite can be formed into smaller tighter areas.
Trial and error will give a better idea of how this stuff works on your truck the fastest based on what is on the frame.
Try to keep the stuff from going up your nose too - it can be harmful / give you a headache if inhaled for different timeframes for different people.
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UR_Mawm69
Well-known member
Awesome! Thank you so much man!
UR_Mawm69
Well-known member
not so much visible progress today, but some done for sure.
both spindles removed from the beams
brake lines removed from spindles/pass side beam
papa started to try and clean the paint and ur gramawms nasty grimy jizz BS off the beams while i cut shit on the other beam.
he said the acetone just dries so fast....... it didn't really do much?
a loooooooooooooooooooooooooootttttttttttttt of fucking grinding done today. one beam shock mounts are cut off and about 90% cleaned up.
we didnt soak the rags or anything though. well try that tomorrow.......................
both spindles removed from the beams
brake lines removed from spindles/pass side beam
papa started to try and clean the paint and ur gramawms nasty grimy jizz BS off the beams while i cut shit on the other beam.
he said the acetone just dries so fast....... it didn't really do much?
a loooooooooooooooooooooooooootttttttttttttt of fucking grinding done today. one beam shock mounts are cut off and about 90% cleaned up.
we didnt soak the rags or anything though. well try that tomorrow.......................
4xFoorOffroad
Active member
Yeah factory paint (if that’s what you’re removing) takes a lot of effort if you’re trying to get it 100% off. I usually cram an angle grinder wire wheel / flap disk / dremel grinding bit or sand barrel as far in every spot as much as I can and only then do I bust out the acetone / rag / sand paper / and scotchbrite for where all of those don’t fit. Putting a decently saturated part of a rag on the paint and wiping it over and over until the paint starts to transfer onto the rag and switching over ti scotchbrite is what I usually do for those tiny last places.
This is only my method for welding prep and I’ll only remove as far away as I need to from the weld site so that I won’t get any funkiness from inclusions and stuff. If you’re just cleaning the frame for repaint then just degrease it, give it a scuff with sand paper or scotchbrite and wipe it down with acetone and you’re good to paint over whatever is there if it’s not flaking or rusted. No need to remove all the factory paint unless you’re welding on it or something.
This is only my method for welding prep and I’ll only remove as far away as I need to from the weld site so that I won’t get any funkiness from inclusions and stuff. If you’re just cleaning the frame for repaint then just degrease it, give it a scuff with sand paper or scotchbrite and wipe it down with acetone and you’re good to paint over whatever is there if it’s not flaking or rusted. No need to remove all the factory paint unless you’re welding on it or something.
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UR_Mawm69
Well-known member
Fuck yes. Thank you so much man.
AS far as what I want, I just want a fully clean and prepped frame/front end for once I start the engine cage/front half of tubework.
Ahhhhh yeah, forgot/didn't think about the wire wheel. I'll get one of those today and go at the beams ALL OVER with that first, then a flap disc, then I'll go at it with a saturated in acetone rag, then scotchbrite pad, then bang bitches.
Finally, I'll come back and thank you, again.
UR_Mawm69
Well-known member
ok........ a loooooooooooooooooot done this weekend as a whole. no real visible progress, other than the beams and frame/shit is a lot cleaner/prepped more.
wire wheels do magic and exactly what i was wanting..........
spindles removed
limit strap tabs cut off
bump pads cut off
shock tabs cut off
beams/rad arms stripped, soaked with WD40 and put away in one of our back sheds.
also....... it still fucking amazes me and makes me so fucking grateful with how cleanly and OCD i am now. i have to have a clean as fuck shop BEFORE i start working on shit, and also when i finish.
no more just slamming a beer and leaving shit everywhere and wheeling all the tools thrown together inside the house. hahha
wire wheels do magic and exactly what i was wanting..........
spindles removed
limit strap tabs cut off
bump pads cut off
shock tabs cut off
beams/rad arms stripped, soaked with WD40 and put away in one of our back sheds.
also....... it still fucking amazes me and makes me so fucking grateful with how cleanly and OCD i am now. i have to have a clean as fuck shop BEFORE i start working on shit, and also when i finish.
no more just slamming a beer and leaving shit everywhere and wheeling all the tools thrown together inside the house. hahha
UR_Mawm69
Well-known member
ok........... idk wtf to do, Willis, won't fucking answer my calls or texts to help me, and I have no other fabrication friends anymore
so idk how this is gonna go trying to explain it. but here we go...............
WHAT THE FUCK DO I DO?!?!?
basically.
but really, as far as moving the motor/trans forward so that it's NOT touching the firewall anymore and not on ghetto hacked up Bronco stock motor mounts grafted to the ranger frame.
thats what its currently on. just some old 66' - 96' Bronco motor mounts, with a bunch of hacked up big nuts as spacers where they're needed.
i am going to build some legit motor mounts, and a trans crossmember mount.
right now it has a, i think it looks like a Camburg/just some fabbed crossmember like that, trans crossmember but its using SOME SORT OF STOCK STYLE RUBBER TRANS MOUNT THAT IS BOLTED TO THE FABBED CROSSMEMBER. Not a Delrin bushing or anything like that. its fucking hack.
i need to:
1. take the whole exhaust system off, since im probably going to have to have a full custom one made anyways........
2. hook the engine hoist up to the motor first and get the weight off it
3. snake the motor mounts off
4. jack up the trans off the mount, and get it on jack stands or something it can set on (which im pretty sure is gonna be a task on its on since the fucking trans and motor is touching the firewall pretty much everywhere it can)
5. CUT OFF THE RAD ARM/TRANS CROSSMEMBER MOUNTS
6. then ill pull the motor trans forward enough to get me some room between the engine/trans and the firewall, and get it where it seems to be set and everything will clear. along with this, i need to get a new radiator and fans and figure out that whole mess. where its gonna go, what'll fit, where it'll fit
7. all of that while planning for the trans crossmember/radius arm/ and motor mounts
i dont even know what my question is.
pretty much, how the fuck do i do all of that. i have everything down until i start moving the motor forward. then im gonna be using an already fucked up brain, that got even MOAR legitimately and medically fucked up, brain to play a guessing game.
WILLLLLLLLLLLISSSSSSSSSS WAS ALWAYS THE ONE TO TELL ME WHAT TO DO OR NOT TO FUCKING DO.
now i aint got no onesssssssssssssssssssssss
so idk how this is gonna go trying to explain it. but here we go...............
WHAT THE FUCK DO I DO?!?!?
basically.
but really, as far as moving the motor/trans forward so that it's NOT touching the firewall anymore and not on ghetto hacked up Bronco stock motor mounts grafted to the ranger frame.
thats what its currently on. just some old 66' - 96' Bronco motor mounts, with a bunch of hacked up big nuts as spacers where they're needed.
i am going to build some legit motor mounts, and a trans crossmember mount.
right now it has a, i think it looks like a Camburg/just some fabbed crossmember like that, trans crossmember but its using SOME SORT OF STOCK STYLE RUBBER TRANS MOUNT THAT IS BOLTED TO THE FABBED CROSSMEMBER. Not a Delrin bushing or anything like that. its fucking hack.
i need to:
1. take the whole exhaust system off, since im probably going to have to have a full custom one made anyways........
2. hook the engine hoist up to the motor first and get the weight off it
3. snake the motor mounts off
4. jack up the trans off the mount, and get it on jack stands or something it can set on (which im pretty sure is gonna be a task on its on since the fucking trans and motor is touching the firewall pretty much everywhere it can)
5. CUT OFF THE RAD ARM/TRANS CROSSMEMBER MOUNTS
6. then ill pull the motor trans forward enough to get me some room between the engine/trans and the firewall, and get it where it seems to be set and everything will clear. along with this, i need to get a new radiator and fans and figure out that whole mess. where its gonna go, what'll fit, where it'll fit
7. all of that while planning for the trans crossmember/radius arm/ and motor mounts
i dont even know what my question is.
pretty much, how the fuck do i do all of that. i have everything down until i start moving the motor forward. then im gonna be using an already fucked up brain, that got even MOAR legitimately and medically fucked up, brain to play a guessing game.
WILLLLLLLLLLLISSSSSSSSSS WAS ALWAYS THE ONE TO TELL ME WHAT TO DO OR NOT TO FUCKING DO.
now i aint got no onesssssssssssssssssssssss
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