89’ Ranger 4x4

How’s the thickness of the pads? I hate how thin the friction discs are now. I remember there used to be 1/16” more on store bought discs 10 or so years ago.
 
Haven’t updated this in awhile. Trying to get this thing prepped for next month. Started a list and I’m slowly but surely getting it taken care of.
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My “Poor man’s sound deadener” aka chimney flashing, decided to melt off while the truck was outside in the 110* heat. That was a stupid mistake that costs me a couple hours of cleanup.
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Replaced it with Kilmat which is actually quite affordable. Looks a thousand times better.
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Threw away and cut off my mounts for the junk rear light bar. Replaced it with a simple single amber cyclone. B3911257-8DC5-41A9-9DB7-226B35D82FDB.jpegB15A7645-5B2D-48F7-9F96-E5BB336347AA.jpeg
 
Back on jack stands it goes..
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Oil was pretty disgusting, but it was there which was surprising.
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Here’s my current valving.
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C/O’s are obviously kinda funky. Suggestions?
 
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Never owned a fancy linked truck so I'm not going to be super helpful... but why not just run a 12 on compression to keep the CO compression simple? I can't image it needing a flutter stack.
 
Never owned a fancy linked truck so I'm not going to be super helpful... but why not just run a 12 on compression to keep the CO compression simple? I can't image it needing a flutter stack.
That was the original setup. This is my first time opening these up. After consulting the elders, I’m going C/O .008 Rebound .012 Comp Bypass .008 Rebound .020 Comp
 
Okay thats crazy to me but it is what it is, if you go 8's on both then I would close a bleed on the bypass as well.

For compression I aggree with what you said above although it still may be on the softer side. Foxes take a ton of valving.
 
Yeah I fucked up on my front bypasses. I should have gone 20’s instead I went with the #105 on Foxes chart.

I’m thinking about closing all bleeds.
 
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