1993 Camburg ranger build.

[exp24]

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Powe...-Ford-Ultra-Mini-Starter-1-4-kW-A-T,7546.html

Powermaster makes good starters, we have this on our C4 with a V8.

 

[Thicks91]

Problem is I’m running the 4.0 OHV with the c4. The starter that is originally paired with the bell housing goes on the 2.8

 

[Brett_408]

Love the homemade tap! 1 1/4" taps are pricey but old hiems are plentiful. How'd it work?

 

[Thicks91]

Love the homemade tap! 1 1/4" taps are pricey but old hiems are plentiful. How'd it work?

It worked bitchen, I just cut some slits in it and I welded a nut on top. Cleaned up the threads nicely. I agree they want way too much for one of those taps. I’ve bought a bolt and did the same thing before.

 

[Brett_408]

It worked bitchen, I just cut some slits in it and I welded a nut on top. Cleaned up the threads nicely. I agree they want way too much for one of those taps. I’ve bought a bolt and did the same thing before.

I have also chased and cleaned threads with a bolt and slits but never thought about doing it for a bung. Good shit.

 

[Thicks91]

Getting closer! Finished up a bunch more of random tasks. Fuse box mounted, computer mounted, radiator tabs fixed as well as had to delete the drain plug cause it was gonna come in contact with the swinger bolt. Oil holder mounted. Headers are on, I cut off the EGR tie in and patched that. Time to do the exhaust. I ordered some 2.5” stainless exhaust piping and a v band from Amazon gonna run a shorty magnaflow muffler. Also got the 3 link wish bone in and aligned, shocks are on and bumps are on, all bolts are shanked anti seized and loctite haha

 

[Thicks91]

Well after 2 years I finally started this thing. It’s not ready to drive as there is still lots of stuff to button up. Was definitely fun tracing down the nuetral safety switch in the A4LD harness. The Pink and red/blue wire had to be joined together as well as the pink and green on the inertia switch. But got that all sorted with a power probe. Still need to do the exhaust, fuel fill, mount the center counsel and a slew of other stuff but hoping to come out towards the end of hammers and cruise this thing around.

 

[Thicks91]

Getting really close! Bled the brakes yesterday, did a once over on a bunch of bolts charged the shocks. Need to tab the center counsel, mount the radiator catch can, hook up and adjust the shifter, wire in both the radiator fan and the tranny cooler. Hoping to drive it this weekend or sometime next week. I’m happy with the proportions. Building it in the garage you don’t always get a good view. Front and rear is 80” wide. It’s pretty narrow but it’s exactly what I wanted.

 

[Thefuntruck]

Good awesome man

 

[_Cole_Taylor_]

Getting really close! Bled the brakes yesterday, did a once over on a bunch of bolts charged the shocks. Need to tab the center counsel, mount the radiator catch can, hook up and adjust the shifter, wire in both the radiator fan and the tranny cooler. Hoping to drive it this weekend or sometime next week. I’m happy with the proportions. Building it in the garage you don’t always get a good view. Front and rear is 80” wide. It’s pretty narrow but it’s ex what I wanted

This thing is rad

 

[Thicks91]

So many minor things accomplished this weekend. Shifter was set, in second gear after lots of recommendations of that. The new front shocks I bought for what ever reason bump a 1/4” higher so this shim was turned down out of a chunk of aluminum in the lathe and a longer Allen bolt to secure it. 3/8 heat shrink on all the hose clamps. I found a much cleaner harness than what i originally had and that truck was a manual with roll up windows so combing through both harness moving wires around. I still don’t have interior lights but hoping to do some more research and figure it out. Also wired up my radio. Checking things off the list.

 

[_Cole_Taylor_]

Did you go from prerunner series shocks to race series? They have different stroke lengths

 

[Thicks91]

I forgot that Friday night I had a guy come out and put in a fresh windshield. The back window frame was cut right where the slider ends. Since it bolts in it’s in there nice and tight. Between the 2 seams where it’s cut I put black Rtv. I had to remove the old shitty faded out purple tint.

 

[Thicks91]

Did you go from prerunner series shocks to race series? They have different stroke lengths

Oddly enough both prerunner series. One is a standard shock the other is a IBP so maybe that’s why? There both 2.5x12”

 

[Thicks91]

For any of you curious of how the shifter mounts in the center counsel here’s some pics

 

[4xFoorOffroad]

Oddly enough both prerunner series. One is a standard shock the other is a IBP so maybe that’s why? There both 2.5x12”

I was looking at 10” IBP vs regular 10” prerunner series specs and the IBP compressed length was .2 or so longer - seems to be a standard thing I suppose.

 

[ChristianEwing]

Oddly enough both prerunner series. One is a standard shock the other is a IBP so maybe that’s why? There both 2.5x12”

The IBP is going to be a bit longer to account for the different shaft setup that the internal pin needs. King's IBP is basically just a last ditch bumpzone being added to the shock, its not a true internal bypass with multiple tunable zones like a fox is. The King IBP coilover's ideal application is in a single shock application with a rubber frame mounted bumpstop. When you start adding in hydraulic bumpstops and bypass next to it, the bumpzone you create is so gnarly the vehicle ends up just bouncing off it or creating a harsh feeling. Which then turns into taking pressure out of the hydraulic bumpstop, shortening the pin length in the coilover or the bumpzone valving (there is two sets of valving and pistons in the IBP's) or lightening the valving in the bypass. It's a revolving door You will just have to play with it. I wouldnt recommend it to people running a CO/BP setup but once you get it to your liking you'll really be thankful for it if you stuff the truck or overshoot something.

 

[Thicks91]

The IBP is going to be a bit longer to account for the different shaft setup that the internal pin needs. King's IBP is basically just a last ditch bumpzone being added to the shock, its not a true internal bypass with multiple tunable zones like a fox is. The King IBP coilover's ideal application is in a single shock application with a rubber frame mounted bumpstop. When you start adding in hydraulic bumpstops and bypass next to it, the bumpzone you create is so gnarly the vehicle ends up just bouncing off it or creating a harsh feeling. Which then turns into taking pressure out of the hydraulic bumpstop, shortening the pin length in the coilover or the bumpzone valving (there is two sets of valving and pistons in the IBP's) or lightening the valving in the bypass. It's a revolving door You will just have to play with it. I wouldnt recommend it to people running a CO/BP setup but once you get it to your liking you'll really be thankful for it if you stuff the truck or overshoot something.

I appreciate the explanation! Makes sense I realize I explained it wrong, the shock was a little over a 1/8” or so longer so I was seeing metal to metal on the shock before my bump stop was fully collapsed so I added that shim to compensate vs cutting off that bump stop and lowering it. Hopefully we can tune it and it’s not a total pain in the ass

 

[ChristianEwing]

I appreciate the explanation! Makes sense I realize I explained it wrong, the shock was a little over a 1/8” or so longer so I was seeing metal to metal on the shock before my bump stop was fully collapsed so I added that shim to compensate vs cutting off that bump stop and lowering it. Hopefully we can tune it and it’s not a total pain in the ass

You will be fine, in your application you will more than likely end up running less pressure in your bumpstop to compensate for the IBP transition in the last bit of travel to get the harsh feeling out of the truck. Once you drive it you'll see what I'm talking about If you have any questions on it let me know!

 

[Thicks91]

You will be fine, in your application you will more than likely end up running less pressure in your bumpstop to compensate for the IBP transition in the last bit of travel to get the harsh feeling out of the truck. Once you drive it you'll see what I'm talking about If you have any questions on it let me know!

I set the bumps up with 50 psi and the shocks with 150 psi think that’s a good starting point?