1993 Camburg ranger build.

"4 links bind" ... LOL.

I think i mentioned it on other forum... but i assume you stuck link brackets up to make sure you have room to clear those subframe tubes to frame? I had to cut shit off on brodaddy build so links would clear.

oh, and if you angle those upper shock mounts diagonally... instead of straight across... your upper shock uniballs will see less misalignment.
Yah I mocked them up in the locating holes and checked before I built those B pillar tubes. Reading Marcy’s build page I was like shit I better pay attention to that. I picked up some bump cans today with some questionable quality
 
Here’s an update. Found this guy who makes a pretty sweet bolt on manual brake setup that’s 9” from the fire wall. I was able to get 14 degrees of shock angle at full bump. I Made some bump stop mounts so that’s next on the chopping block this weekend along with steering. I need to finish up making the plates for the shock mounts and tack all those tubes in place.
 

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I’ve still got some more lacing in the engine cage as well. Gonna do a couple .95 1”1/4 kickers
 
will that set up leave much room for a bypass? i ran a portion of my brake master in the cab to gain room for shocks. But then again i was using CNC set up.
 
Finished up the lacing in the engine cage, Started on the steering, mounted the bump stops. Now to cap these shock mounts and work on the steering. Need some different heims for the outer tie rods
 

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How about some more details on the manual brake setup?
I like the idea of manual brakes, I grew up driving a '69 f100 that had manual drums and it was kind of lame as far as the brakes. I'm sure these "race-type" setups work much better than that did.
 
How about some more details on the manual brake setup?
I like the idea of manual brakes, I grew up driving a '69 f100 that had manual drums and it was kind of lame as far as the brakes. I'm sure these "race-type" setups work much better than that did.
There are so many options when it comes to manual brakes. It really depends on your caliper size and your truck. Wilwood and tilton and CNC make a bunch of different bore sizes. You can run a different bore size front to rear. I personally found this dude by simply googling manual brakes that had a complete master cylinder and adapter set up so I could use the stock pedals and steering column mount. I believe since this master has both front and rear in one piece it totals 1”1/8th bore. I’m gonna run basically f150 2 piston brakes and gm ruff stuff calipers in the back.
 
Priority has been getting my dads Silverado running so he can take it back to his house lol I’ll post some pics of my progress as it’s been a couple months of what’s gotten done. I’ve been buying and stacking parts.
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Here’s an update! Had the shocks rebuilt at downsouth Motorsports. Patched the firewall, welded up the engine cage. Got some new seats, harnesses and steering wheel from PRP. Grabbed a set of king 2.0x4” bumps for the rear of the truck. My 3rd member came in from quick performance. So my parts are stacking up. I’ve pretty much got everything I need to finish this thing haha. Gonna make a push to get the engine and trans back in. And finish up some plate work in the front.
 

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Here’s some progress on the back half! Kicked the frame 7 1/2 inches, working on tabbing out the axel and gonna add some taco gussets. Hoping to get everything mocked up in the back and start slinging some tubes.
 

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It’s pretty common most trophy trucks, prerunners, class 10 etc are all manual brakes
its more of a safety thing then performance. manual brakes will always be the same if the motor is running or not. but they will never compete with any assisted brake system when the motor is running.
 
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