the bodj
Well-known member
Negative, ghostrider. I ran Marcy's numbers and he had in the 20-30% range.
Local Legend Don't Call It An S10
- Thread starter the bodj
- Start date
Negative, ghostrider. I ran Marcy's numbers and he had in the 20-30% range.
michael_gonzalez
Active member
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- Apr 1, 2022
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You do you boo boo
the bodj
Well-known member
Rear Link Geometry
OK so after riding in Jubera's F150 without a rear sway bar and feeling how well it stayed planted when turning I know the rear link geometry is set up. Now my question for you guys what is the ideal setup for reducing sway and maintaining proper pinion angle and everything throughout travel...
www.dezertrangers.com
Even Tommy's truck was 60%. I want to be able to gas it and keep the front end light.
But I'm more so asking about the pinion numbers lol.
the bodj
Well-known member
Finished the axle side lower mounts. I like how they turned out. Added weld washers inside to double the thickness at the bolt mounting location
Motiracer38
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- Apr 27, 2022
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I wondered where you went to, progress is looking good. My antisquat numbers are low and I love it
Maybe I got lucky or maybe my trucks about to fail but with long links there’s a lot of room for error. Just set up your instant center at the front bumper or even forward so the truck will squat or wheelie under acceleration.
I have a ton of pinion change and driveshaft plunge on mine. Fuck it.
I have a ton of pinion change and driveshaft plunge on mine. Fuck it.
the bodj
Well-known member
Yeah I like how your truck handles, so I'd like something similar.
Apples to oranges, I believe. I'm using a 1 piece driveshaft, so all my slip is at the trans, and I'm limited to like 2 or 2.5". My driveshaft is also going to be about 60" long, so I need the longer links to keep the arcs closer together. I also have these numbers ran for shorter (49") lower links that, if they'll work without changing DS length too much, would help a ton. The 55" lowers put the link mounts right at my C pillar cage mounts so I'd have to finagle that. I'm just going to tack up a bunch of scrap tabs and cycle to see which length works better. The shorter link would also put me at a better motion ratio. DS length change is the big question right now.
the bodj
Well-known member
Here are the shorter link numbers for my reference
the bodj
Well-known member
For my reference, use the last posted numbers with the 49" long lowers. According to solidworks I'll only have 0.71" DS length change throughout the 20" of travel (10" up and 10" down). With the 55" lower links I would have 2.21" DS length change through the same travel. Just need to draw the frame side upper link mounts and I can start tacking and cycling.
the bodj
Well-known member
Got the upper link frame mounts done. Stoked with them. Looking at them, they seem a bit short (fore and aft), so I may add a longer overlay plate on the frame to distribute the load more. Maybe I’m overthinking it?
Snagged this at a garage sale today for $400. Not fully loaded, but came with SAE and Metric snap on wrenches, snap on, matco, and knipex pliers, blue point scan tool, hammers, snap on punches and pliers, some various air tools… pretty stoked.
Snagged this at a garage sale today for $400. Not fully loaded, but came with SAE and Metric snap on wrenches, snap on, matco, and knipex pliers, blue point scan tool, hammers, snap on punches and pliers, some various air tools… pretty stoked.
Link mounts look good. I would run a tube around the bolt head and then a tube angled from that junction forward to trans crossmember. I have seen upper link mounts crack in the past and a simple tube forward prevents that. My Tacoma I have the mounts go forward into the carrier bearing crossmember to bax it in and prevent for/aft movement.
the bodj
Well-known member
That’sa good idea. I’ll have to see how room is with the exhaust in
theycallmeWALLY
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That's an awesome deal on the tool box!
was thinking the same thing. I thought I got some awesome deals but I paid $500 or more for good boxes with some tools in it.
the bodj
Well-known member
Yeah I'm pretty stoked on it. It's in the place of a HF 4 drawer roller chest that didn't have close to enough room. I started getting tools swapped over, so I'll be able to get things a bit more organized. I'm looking for a shop space right now, so not spending too much time organizing things lol
the bodj
Well-known member
Got all the mounts tacked up. I goofed up a bit and didn't cut the axle side upper mounts shorter like I had planned, and I'm going to raise the frame side upper mounts another 1.25". I realized how far off I was when I measured like 5+degrees of pinion change at 12" of bump lol. Once I get them corrected I should be at 1.11degrees at bump and 0.96degrees at droop. It'll help keep the upper axle mounts from ripping off, too. I made them long on purpose so I could cut them down as needed. I just forgot to cut them lol.
The teaching year is finishing up in a few weeks. Then I have a bit over a full week before flying to Ohio to get married. So I should get a lot done to the truck in that time. Hoping I can build all the links and maybe get a tube stubbed out of the rear firewall that I can get coilover mounts built off. That way I can have it sitting on it's own weight before leaving for the wedding/honeymoon, and I can know my physical constraints for building the rectangular tube frame when I return.
Anyone have any 2.5x16" kings for sale or trade+cash (from me) for my brand new 14s?
The teaching year is finishing up in a few weeks. Then I have a bit over a full week before flying to Ohio to get married. So I should get a lot done to the truck in that time. Hoping I can build all the links and maybe get a tube stubbed out of the rear firewall that I can get coilover mounts built off. That way I can have it sitting on it's own weight before leaving for the wedding/honeymoon, and I can know my physical constraints for building the rectangular tube frame when I return.
Anyone have any 2.5x16" kings for sale or trade+cash (from me) for my brand new 14s?
SaltyMethods
Well-known member
Awesome S10!!! Oh wait... Damnit. I'm so stupid.
theycallmeWALLY
Administrator
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Looks great man. Did I miss something or are you giong to be trussing the rear end too?
the bodj
Well-known member
Thanks! I have a tabzone truss I'll be adding. I wanted to tab it up before welding it on.
the bodj
Well-known member
Anyways, messed with the both frame and axle side upper link mounts and got the pinion change down to 1 degree at 12" bump. I theoretically have 4" of clearance between the lower link frame mounts and the ground at full bump. I need to pull the wheels to check droop numbers pinion change, but it should be the same. Talked to Mikey last night at the Badlinegoodtimes taco night at Sapwi bike park, and I'll be doing a ghetto fixed yolk at the trans by drilling and tapping the trans output shaft so I don't have to worry much about slip, which is somehow 1.5" from ride height to bump when I thought it would be half that lol.
Had to break out the BFH to make some clearance for the passenger upper link.
Here's a profile shot before I moved the upper mounts, so don't mind the link angles. But it's a good representation of wheelbase, and how much tire to cab clearance there is. I think it looks well proportioned, and it's as far as I could move the axle back without needing a two piece driveshaft.
Had to break out the BFH to make some clearance for the passenger upper link.
Here's a profile shot before I moved the upper mounts, so don't mind the link angles. But it's a good representation of wheelbase, and how much tire to cab clearance there is. I think it looks well proportioned, and it's as far as I could move the axle back without needing a two piece driveshaft.
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