Local Legend Don't Call It An S10

My Tacoma handled great and it was 138 wheelbase. If it was shorter it would've probably worked better when doing the tight chicanes in a trail

My turning radius is already bad enough, so I don't want to go much longer. I also want to keep it a 1piece driveshaft, so can't go too long.
 
My turning radius is already bad enough, so I don't want to go much longer. I also want to keep it a 1piece driveshaft, so can't go too long.


am i already fucking blocked from your shit.
come on ya fucking midg hazoosus lover

Feels weird to not be immediately revolted by the sight of an S10-chassis truck.

exactly. whatthefuck. hah
 
Concerns about turning radius = going slow.

I wouldn't attribute that into any thinking of said build. Now the drive shaft part makes more sense to me.
 
Concerns about turning radius = going slow.

I wouldn't attribute that into any thinking of said build. Now the drive shaft part makes more sense to me.
Correct. This is a do-all vehicle. I plan on being able to do some remote camping, minor 4x4 stuff to get to the spots, and being able to turn tight and fit on those trails would be helpful haha

Messed with the numbers a bit and I think this is where I landed on. 3.4deg at 12" bump and -1.33deg at 12" droop. Realistically I'll be at 10" bump and 8" droop, or 12" bump, 6" droop (approximately 18" bumped and strapped unless I can trade my 14s for 16s). I'll hopefully get to start mocking it all up by early next week and checking driveshaft plunge numbers.

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Got the axle side upper and lower link mounts cut, along with the frame side lower link mounts and all their overlay plates/weld washers. But now that I'm typing this and looking at the pictures, I realize I need to cut one more set of axle side lower mounts. Not shown is the second set of frame side lower mount base plates. Had to shift the sheet over on the plasma table to fit them #smallshopproblems

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Correct. This is a do-all vehicle. I plan on being able to do some remote camping, minor 4x4 stuff to get to the spots, and being able to turn tight and fit on those trails would be helpful haha

Messed with the numbers a bit and I think this is where I landed on. 3.4deg at 12" bump and -1.33deg at 12" droop. Realistically I'll be at 10" bump and 8" droop, or 12" bump, 6" droop (approximately 18" bumped and strapped unless I can trade my 14s for 16s). I'll hopefully get to start mocking it all up by early next week and checking driveshaft plunge numbers.

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Got the axle side upper and lower link mounts cut, along with the frame side lower link mounts and all their overlay plates/weld washers. But now that I'm typing this and looking at the pictures, I realize I need to cut one more set of axle side lower mounts. Not shown is the second set of frame side lower mount base plates. Had to shift the sheet over on the plasma table to fit them #smallshopproblems

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I guess my the point I was trying to get across... You are building a truck very similar to mine. Steering radius has never been a problem. Going faster by having a good wheel base would be more important to me. I'm sure your truck is long enough though considering it's already a 4 door and you aren't trying to fit the shocks into the cab.
 
I guess my the point I was trying to get across... You are building a truck very similar to mine. Steering radius has never been a problem. Going faster by having a good wheel base would be more important to me. I'm sure your truck is long enough though considering it's already a 4 door and you aren't trying to fit the shocks into the cab.

My turning radius is already limited more than your truck. The stock sonoma frame is wider than rangers, and my radius arms are mounted directly under the frame. I mounted my radius arms as far out on the beam as I could, and didn't include a bend in the beam to allow the tire more clearance. I don't think I'm losing much turning radius, but I've always liked tight turning trucks. While I do want it to be able to cruise comfortably at speed, it's not going to be a full kill truck. Most fast truck wheelbases are in the 125-130" range, so I think I'll be fine. But yeah, I may have to shove the shocks in the cab to get a better motion ratio. Not too stoked about that, but I'll do it if I need to.
 
Sounds like an easy fix in the turning radius. Modify your radius arms to allow full steering
I was thinking the same thing. A simple bend, plating and welding would make that easy. Unless tire into frame is an issue.
 
My turning radius is already limited more than your truck. The stock sonoma frame is wider than rangers, and my radius arms are mounted directly under the frame. I mounted my radius arms as far out on the beam as I could, and didn't include a bend in the beam to allow the tire more clearance. I don't think I'm losing much turning radius, but I've always liked tight turning trucks. While I do want it to be able to cruise comfortably at speed, it's not going to be a full kill truck. Most fast truck wheelbases are in the 125-130" range, so I think I'll be fine. But yeah, I may have to shove the shocks in the cab to get a better motion ratio. Not too stoked about that, but I'll do it if I need to.
Cantilever with links. You won't
 
Sounds like an easy fix in the turning radius. Modify your radius arms to allow full steering

You're right, I'm just being a loser and putting that off. I actually don't think they are limiting it all that much. I think I'm like one spline off on the box. It will turn all the way into the radius arm on one side and is just before steering lock in the box. The other gets close but doesn't touch.

Cantilever with links. You won't

You're right, I won't.
 
Man. I fucking love my truck, but i reaaaallllyyyy want a 4 door TTB rig with a bed on it...
Need a huge ferking caged dodge?
 
Fixed for you Bodjie.

Haha yesterday I was thinking about how much I liked the Tundra and how much fun it was to drive. Those 4.7s are peppy and make good noise!

Man. I fucking love my truck, but i reaaaallllyyyy want a 4 door TTB rig with a bed on it...
Need a huge ferking caged dodge?

Hah! Straight trade lololololol. Unfortunately I'm ditching the bed. It's just too small to be of any use with a spare tire back there, and I'm stretching the wheelbase a bit so it wouldn't work out.
 
Been chipping away at the link mounts. I have the frame side lower plates made, axle side upper mounts made, and axle side lower mounts mostly made. I ran my numbers to have the frame side lower mounts mounted below the frame, but I hate the way it looks. I may move them up and to the side of the frame. Unfortunately that will give me more pinion change than I wanted unless I move other mounts around. So right now I'm messing with the calculator to fix this. I think I have it figured out. My antisquat will be raised to 53%, but I'll reduce my pinion angle change to 3.27* at 10" bump, and -1.64* at 10" droop. I think these numbers should be fine? Thoughts?

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These lower link tabs were initially designed to mount below the frame, but I held it in place yesterday and hate it. I'll be able to easily modify them to mount on the side of the frame. No big deal

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These are the upper link tabs that I made long so I can cut shorter if needed (it's looking like they will be cut down a fair bit)
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Axle side lower link mounts. I have still need to finish welding two of them, and then they'll get boxed in. Might grind down all the welds and make it a nice smooth finish. Might not. I'll see how the welds turn out lol.

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My camera is jacked up so the pictures suck. Debating spending $350 to have the camera fixed, or just get a new phone.
 
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