Tonight I realized I never cycled everything with the bed on the truck. So tomorrow i'm going to remove coilovers and 1 spring, then reassemble that onto truck along with the bed and rear tires, then cycle checking for clearance on everything. I may have to trim the underbed support ribs since they sit directly ontop of the frame and the shock may come into contact of that but a simple notch of that would fix that issue. I will also check tire clearance and do new rear bedside support as well since it mounts to be near the frame where the cantilever arm and everything swings.
1995 Ford F150 DD prelander
- Thread starter 85Yota
- Start date
FlyByRacing
Active member
I had to cut into my bed supports to get everything to swing without hitting. It gets tight down there
OK well I made the links connecting cantilever to axle too long so that end of the arm went into the bed at full bump. So I designed a new arm and going to make new shorter links this weekend. Then paint and reassemble again.
I was thinking the bed floor was 2" above the top of the frame BUT it's basically sitting on the top of frame above the bump stops.
Original setup and new plasma cut 16ga arm to show difference and to cycle and test before cutting out of 3/16 which isn't cheap anymore. $0.72 a lb not $0.45 like pre covid days.
Also this middle rib i cut flush to bed floor in order to mount the bronco tank in the f150. Only notches I had to do was the rear bed floor crossmember dips lower outside the frame so I had to trim that flat to clear shock mounts.
I was thinking the bed floor was 2" above the top of the frame BUT it's basically sitting on the top of frame above the bump stops.
Original setup and new plasma cut 16ga arm to show difference and to cycle and test before cutting out of 3/16 which isn't cheap anymore. $0.72 a lb not $0.45 like pre covid days.
Also this middle rib i cut flush to bed floor in order to mount the bronco tank in the f150. Only notches I had to do was the rear bed floor crossmember dips lower outside the frame so I had to trim that flat to clear shock mounts.
Decided to add to this post for reference to other people to see. The factory ford frames are real floppy. I don't want the frame to permanently bend or have the bed smashing into the cab making dents or noise. Did 1-3/4" Dom tubing from infront of the upper link mounts to new crossmember i did because upper link hit that at full bump.
OK got some more work done, reassembly, trimmed the rear bumper brackets and installed that. I also mounted a small badlands winch behind the bumper. Theb took it for her maiden voyage this afternoon. It worked good and rode good down the road perfect as well. Now the axle i got is 5.13 gears and with the 35s at 65 it's at 2600 rpm which is higher than I want it to be at. So I'm planning on regearing both axles in the future to 4.88 or 4.56 since I'm planning on this driving miles down the road before the dirt miles.
Exploder_M
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- Apr 18, 2022
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- 131
You work fast! Great job
BobbyHasARustyBronco
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- May 9, 2022
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- 59
so rad! such a sleeper!
DesertGoat
Active member
grandpa truck on methods.
Well took the truck out to Camp Kyle to watch the shitbox 69 guys do a rally around the desert. Truck worked really well. I'm guessing it needs stiffer springs then the 300/450 i have thinking 400/500 would help maintain ride height with full tank or gas and doing a drawer system in the bed. Rear tires rub lip inside wheel opening so I'll hammer those flat to bedside this week to keep it from wanting to cut the tread of the tire.
Kellyex1450
Active member
What a rad Sleeper, Great job!
Baconcreekmetal
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- Mar 18, 2023
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- 111
That's awesome.
Been driving it this week and making a few tweaks. Adjuster rear coil stops to hit slider 1" above ride height with the level at 1/2 tank of fuel. Also went to 300 psi n2 in rear shocks. Hammered in rear fender lip a bit as well so that doesn't hit tire sidewall tread anymore. I need to adjust coil spring stop a bit since I can feel the rear spring up and not rebound control as good so I'll do that for next time I take it out.
Also camper shell clamps came loose and now the rear door doesn't fit as well and I can see some spider cracks in the top corners of the shell now. So I'm thinking the shell needs to have rear above door lifted up and braced to keep it in that position. I also through bolted the shell to bed with some metal strips I cut along inside of camper shell to keep it from moving on the bed again.
Anyone have any photos of internal braces that keep camper shells alive?
Also camper shell clamps came loose and now the rear door doesn't fit as well and I can see some spider cracks in the top corners of the shell now. So I'm thinking the shell needs to have rear above door lifted up and braced to keep it in that position. I also through bolted the shell to bed with some metal strips I cut along inside of camper shell to keep it from moving on the bed again.
Anyone have any photos of internal braces that keep camper shells alive?
Cleandezert
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- Apr 7, 2022
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- 764
this truck is so rad tommy.
Motiracer38
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- Apr 27, 2022
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- 342
Keeping a shell alive will be tough, I've had them crack on both my DDs doing portions of Mojave Rd.
I'd say build a structure inside to keep the rear opening from racking. Kind of like the tailgate area bed stiffeners but on the roof. The doors usually have some paly side to side in the hinge and need to be tuned in a little tighter than stock. @Kellyex1450 built his own GFC replica which you may be able to draw some inspiration from.
I'd say build a structure inside to keep the rear opening from racking. Kind of like the tailgate area bed stiffeners but on the roof. The doors usually have some paly side to side in the hinge and need to be tuned in a little tighter than stock. @Kellyex1450 built his own GFC replica which you may be able to draw some inspiration from.
Yeah was planning on building a steel tubing frame ok the inside with multiple tabs and through bolts to help try and keep it stiff and alive. Plus the headliner in it is sagging so prob cut slits in it and spray adhesive that and add some led lights to the frame id build.
