Motiracer38
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2022
- Messages
- 351
Also better for longevity as the ball stays in the housing more consistently and doesn't try to drag dirt in with every bump.
1995 Ford F150 DD prelander
- Thread starter 85Yota
- Start date
OK got some work done on this thing the last couple weeks.
4 link is on. 9in is in. Bronco manual bw1356 t-case is in minus shifter hole in floor I'll do that in a couple days. Front air bumps are on. Also started the secondary inner frame support tubes and replaced one crossmember to get rear axle to hit frame metal on metal and it will still clear the bed. Also made a bracket to rotate fuel filter up above upper link to clear all that at full bump. And clearance rear cab mounting crossmember to clear links at full bump.
4 link is on. 9in is in. Bronco manual bw1356 t-case is in minus shifter hole in floor I'll do that in a couple days. Front air bumps are on. Also started the secondary inner frame support tubes and replaced one crossmember to get rear axle to hit frame metal on metal and it will still clear the bed. Also made a bracket to rotate fuel filter up above upper link to clear all that at full bump. And clearance rear cab mounting crossmember to clear links at full bump.
Also I painted the engine cross brace, made a fixture so I can make and sell these style towers to customers. Rebuilt and revalved front and rear coilovers to get a known base valving that's similar to what I was specd by ADS shocks for the front and rear valving from another guy with similar cantilever setup and advice from Accutune from their vehicle tuning knowledge as well. Moving right along will get it on all 4s this week, with some box tubing I bolted to frame and tack welded to the rear axle until I get the shocks and cantilever all on.
Motiracer38
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2022
- Messages
- 351
Coming along quickly. What size tubing did you use for the rear links?
Also got the rear secondary inner frame tubes in place. Was tricky because long notch on not a smooth angle frame and to keep it below bed crossmember and clear upper links at full bump. Got about 1/8" clearance everywhere with axle hitting frame metal on metal. Which will get a bump pad and bump stops to prevent it from ever going this high.
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DesertGoat
Well-known member
nice. you gonna wanna take it to mexico?
Got it driving with rear tacked onto blocks until I do that. Swapped master cylinder since the reservoir on the one on the truck looked a little burnt, but even after vacuum bleeding the brakes I have no pedal so guessing the used one from my junkyard is bad. Exhaust goes up and over the upper link. Will cut pipe out the side once bed is back mounted to get the tip sitting just right.
My phone's photos are too good to post on the website making the files too large now...
My phone's photos are too good to post on the website making the files too large now...
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Ok so figured out I screenshot my photos then I can post them on the site.
Flapjacks double cab tacoma is rolled out of the shop so I got my truck on the lift. Starting on the cantilever setup. The fab lab kindly shared his cantilever arms he had drawn for adventure endeavors wagoneer and a few other trucks he's ran them on. So I changed the design to bolt onto a d44 hub, they willnhave tubes in middle web of arms for style and more strength on final design. I used my d44 front snout blocks and then on my lathe hole sawed a 2" hole in the middle of them so they can slide onto a tube that will support everything, including the bronco 33 gal rear gas tank I swapped in. I cycled the arms and 2.5 x 12" coilovers on my computer and everything shouod work perfectly.
To swap in bronco tank I made an angle iron front mount that bolts to frame and the skid plat bolts onto. Then rear I fabricated an adapter bracket for rear truck tank straps to the bronco skid mount that holds the tank tight against truck upper straps. Then I made a wiring adapter from f150 rear tank to bronco sending unit plug. I'll get everything cycling and upper shock mounts mocked up. My goal with this is to run the factory bed uncut and even run the factory bumpers with a slid behind it for the front and aluminum skid on bottom of this. The bronco tank will be held in from the top down now so I don't have to make this whole cantilever cradle unbolt to drop tank out the bottom.
Flapjacks double cab tacoma is rolled out of the shop so I got my truck on the lift. Starting on the cantilever setup. The fab lab kindly shared his cantilever arms he had drawn for adventure endeavors wagoneer and a few other trucks he's ran them on. So I changed the design to bolt onto a d44 hub, they willnhave tubes in middle web of arms for style and more strength on final design. I used my d44 front snout blocks and then on my lathe hole sawed a 2" hole in the middle of them so they can slide onto a tube that will support everything, including the bronco 33 gal rear gas tank I swapped in. I cycled the arms and 2.5 x 12" coilovers on my computer and everything shouod work perfectly.
To swap in bronco tank I made an angle iron front mount that bolts to frame and the skid plat bolts onto. Then rear I fabricated an adapter bracket for rear truck tank straps to the bronco skid mount that holds the tank tight against truck upper straps. Then I made a wiring adapter from f150 rear tank to bronco sending unit plug. I'll get everything cycling and upper shock mounts mocked up. My goal with this is to run the factory bed uncut and even run the factory bumpers with a slid behind it for the front and aluminum skid on bottom of this. The bronco tank will be held in from the top down now so I don't have to make this whole cantilever cradle unbolt to drop tank out the bottom.
Motiracer38
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2022
- Messages
- 351
Are you planning on a sway bar between the hubs? Cause that would be sweet.
OK well mockup v1.0 want working for my setup. Would put shocks behind the rear bumper. So measured everything sat down on computer then drew a bunch or circles to figure out the arc the shock swing steering bump to droop. Did same with cantilever arms 2 pivots as well. Found spots where everything lined up and drew the arm. Out out of 16ga for mockup and it worked. I got the pivot tube and cantilever link tubes mocked up with scrap metal I had laying around. Looks like it will swing around 21-22" travel strapped.
Started tacking up the cantilever arms today. I got 1-1/2" sleeves from McMaster that are 21/32 ID so I used them as spacers between the hub mounting bolts. They're split seam spacers so I tacked them in place on the seams. Also got the boxing plates cut and bent as well.
Got rear links arms and bottom tubes on for the fuel tank mount. Will add more tubes to gusset it and some box tubing notched into rear frame to do rear shock mounts off of. Also there's enough width to run coilover and bypass next to eachother so gonna do the upper mount for future upgrade.
OK had some time today to get started on the shock mounts. I got some 2" x 3" .188 box tubing remnant at the local patrons steel. I notched this into the rear frame rails for shocks to mount off the bottom of it. The rear bed mounting bolt goes through the frame right where this new crossmember will be. So I clamped it all tight in place and marked hole then holesaw it to weld in some 1-3/4" tubing. I designed crossmember tube length to have the outer inside bypass mounts to land right on the end of the tube and cut at angle that the outer tab would land flat on the end.
