Project G4 AKA Quasi-Ghetto

List is getting shorter and shorter. Need to make some speaker boxes now.


Headset offroad cables/hanger.

GGxDat9S_o.jpg


and all UHF cables ran now....

DUXZXnoy_o.jpg


only have to run 2x speaker wires to boxes. Then wiring is done 110%!! Should be glorious feeling. In preparation for that... I hacked out the remaining portion of sheet metal. Box will fill that space. thinking i might Raptor line the speaker box too. Instead of carpet?

so much space now for speaker boxes
jEckT9Pa_o.jpg
 
FasterNU said:
List is getting shorter and shorter. Need to make some speaker boxes now.


Headset offroad cables/hanger.

GGxDat9S_o.jpg


and all UHF cables ran now....

DUXZXnoy_o.jpg


only have to run 2x speaker wires to boxes. Then wiring is done 110%!! Should be glorious feeling. In preparation for that... I hacked out the remaining portion of sheet metal. Box will fill that space. thinking i might Raptor line the speaker box too. Instead of carpet?

so much space now for speaker boxes
jEckT9Pa_o.jpg
Click to expand...
both for bro sound.
 
starting to pull the tranny. Just realized how retarded I am too. I had no idea that my shift pattern on my shifter is actually for reverse valve body. HAHAHA.

So, when I tested down the road... I for sure was trying to drive in 4th. HAHAHA. Doesnt matter though. That doesn't explain the problems of reverse... and losing pressure after so long.

I decided to throw a pressure guage on it to show. Here is what happend after shifting from park to R after... must be 5x? You can count here in video if you want... but at end... you can see it has lost all ability to make pressure. weird.

 
pulled the tranny. Culhane said approx 3,500 for a rebuild with billet reverse manual valve body. Seems a bit spendy.. but it seems those manual valve bodies are like $750 or so at least.

I couldn't get Jaunco to call me back. (Mike (the fabllab) said he did a good job on his) So yea.. not sure who else i would send my trans to besides Culhane.

Just bought a TCS converter with 3-3200 stall. Will also have lock up

Got to say... pulling the trans was actually really easy.

It seems my planning/work paid off to keep maintenance tasks bearable... so far. The acess holes were perfect... no need to remove dash... and I am sure I can do it with console in too...

e5mrGhoW_o.jpg


Hardest bolt was one on driver side upper middle left. I will likely cut the stud portion off the head on that one bolt. It's not needed.. and just makes it harder to fit in because it is so close to firewall.

y5lYaEzN_o.jpg


And bought some toe plates to make shit easier/more accurate on all these trucks we work on...

mSOSgFpB_o.jpg
 
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there is a local guy in OC that works out of his garage that has built alot of trans for local guys. Owned his own shop for like 30 years then retired and does them on the side. His name is Dana Sniff, he did my fully bulit c4, did tonellis, and a bunch of other people. But if i recall he was about 3k and that was 10 years ago. Its great piece of mind though. If you need contact info let me know.
 
^^ they are all over Amazon. Here is link to ones I got.

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been having all sorts of fun trying to figure out brakes too. Couldn't get much for pressure to build in entire system unless I pulled hand brake at same time. It also seemed like pressure was slowly bleeding off too. I assumed I must have a bad rear master.

Bought a pressure gauge with bleeder port adapter to confirm. Sure enough... not nearly as much pressure unless I held the hand brake. Hand brake makes like 1500 PSI by itself! Noticed that the pressure dropped super slow on front, and noticed it dropped super fast in back. Looks like my hunch was right and the back master was bad.

The problem is ....with the balance bar... if you dont build pressure in one master, it doesn't really push the other one hard enough to make pressure!!! So, I decided I would cap the rear master right at the outlet port to see what happens. Sure enough... while it sill moved some and bled pressure off... it allowed me to finally get over 1000 PSI to the front brakes with just the brake pedal.

This also made me think... Shit, I probably should have plumbed in shut off valves right after masters. That way if one ciruit fails... you can shut off that circuit and still have some brakes?

I called Nexgen... and was prepared to buy a rebuild kit... but he, Ryan, remembered me and is sending a 5/8" rebuild kit for free since it was bad from get go. AWESOME> I def will be shopping there more because of that. In fact.. I probably will be shopping there real soon when I find out I still have wrong sized masters. LOL

Curious to what I see in terms of pressures once I get it fixed. Still surprised that the inline 3/4" master on the hand brake is generating so much more pressure than the legs. I have a feeling this must be because the balance bar is splitting the leg force approx 50/50?? ... (well that AND the master was bad)
 
I replaced the defective seal on the rear 5/8" master. Had issues with new plunger... where it would get stuck. Tried two times. So, ended up putting the old plunger in and reused the smaller seal closer to brake and it worked again on bench. Slapped it all together.

I still feel like a bunch of pedal movement is wasted on the rear. You can feel it in handle.. and see it too. Like it has to push the hand brake master out until it hits the handles stops...then it builds pressure. So the first few inches of travel are wasted
I adjusted bias. I can only get about 600 PSI to front brakes by only using the foot pedal. I can get more like 800-900 if you pull hand brake first.

So my thought is.. maybe step up the bore size on the rear so it can fill that space faster and push earlier on the front. What's crazy is you can generate over 2000psi if you pull hard on the hand brake. (it is a 3/4" master.. but i guess that extra leverage and not being split makes all the diff?)

I noticed though.... the rear still seems to be bleeding off pressure still! WTF> Maybe this master is defective. Wonder if the seal got torn again. Perhaps I should have swapped that back seal off plunger too? Bore didnt look rough when i cleaned it though. Whatever. I'm just going to buy a 3/4 master now and see what happens. When in doubt throw money at it. LOL

here is OG seal that was leaking... looks like it got fucked by two ports that are side by side:

fh1rbH3Z_o.jpg
 
^^ No, I used mostly tinned marine wire. Which, looking back.. I would probably use regular copper auto wire. It just fits connectors etc better and is smaller diameter.

The door/window harness is TXL.
 
Cleandezert said:
there is a local guy in OC that works out of his garage that has built alot of trans for local guys. Owned his own shop for like 30 years then retired and does them on the side. His name is Dana Sniff, he did my fully bulit c4, did tonellis, and a bunch of other people. But if i recall he was about 3k and that was 10 years ago. Its great piece of mind though. If you need contact info let me know.
Click to expand...
i cant recommend dana sniff enough! he is the name AND the man actually building the trans unlike other mentioned shop. he rebuilt my incorrectly assembled c4 and its been a tank the last 4 years or so! i spent 2300 and that was a complete rollerization, and a few custom parts he hand makes to make em stronger for offroad dutys. i have a whole build sheet on it, its 3 pages long LOL!
 
marcytech said:
i cant recommend dana sniff enough! he is the name AND the man actually building the trans unlike other mentioned shop. he rebuilt my incorrectly assembled c4 and its been a tank the last 4 years or so! i spent 2300 and that was a complete rollerization, and a few custom parts he hand makes to make em stronger for offroad dutys. i have a whole build sheet on it, its 3 pages long LOL!
Click to expand...
how long did he talk your ear off when you dropped it off? lol such a great guy...
 
Cleandezert said:
how long did he talk your ear off when you dropped it off? lol such a great guy...
Click to expand...

Oh dude lmao. The initial phone call one was thing. The drop off was an event. He insisted on taking it apart while I was there and he was like yep this is backwards there’s a missing clutch plate here… blah blah. He had the whole thing apart while recording a hour long podcast with me in 6 minutes flat 😂😂😂
 
^^^ that is for a 10" ..... gonna have two. One in each side of door pocket. "Girls like the cars that go boom". (i bet nobody even knows that song here)

I got my coworker to build that for me! sucker!

Well, if Culhane doesnt work out... I can always take it there to Dana. haha.

OK.. so got the new masters in. It's way better. Now, I wonder if I should go up one more size? It's till spongy a little. Also a good chance there is still some air in there... cuz, it's amazing how bad your baby momma can be at something as simple as following the bleed procedure consistenly and efficiently. (insert cuss words here)


I still feel like I am running out of pedal before leg.

As it is now, I am able to get a consistent 750PSI on the front. If I hit rear hand brake and jam on it.. I get 1000psi up front.
Front:


Rear:
The rear is getting a tad under that around 700. The big spikes are the hand brake.



I cant believe how hard this has been to find out balance bar info. I am not understanding how the leverage changes here to change bias. I feel like I want to try to get more PSI up front....

Is the balance bar picture here showing a bias to the master on the left (that is my front brake). This is how it is set right now:
7Q1Gc6Wv_o.jpg
 
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Admittedly didn't read through the entire thread but are you bleeding both front and rear calipers at the same time? aka three man bleed?
 
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