Project G4 AKA Quasi-Ghetto
- Thread starter FasterNU
- Start date
the bodj
Well-known member
Good to have you over here! Unfortunately just copy/paste
I'm gonna start a build thread for a truck I don't even own yet. Cart before the horse on this one. I do have a plan though. Same old Ranger... but this time I will slap a V8 in it from the get go. I will document every tube to the best of my ability. My original plan was to re-use a lot of parts from 2Ghetto. That plan seems to be falling apart rapidly, and I haven't even bought the project yet!!
Picked up some unused Threat beams from the DR classifieds "nakedracer1433" guy if i recall correctly. Seem to be nicely re-worked. These were billet D35 ends. They have custom spindles with uniballs and Camburg weld in 2.25" snouts and hubs with squeal goods.
I also have a Threat link on order. Oops, I did it again. I really called him to talk myself into building my own beam and radius arm mounts (kit was missing those). I ended up ordering a new set of his new links with 2x vertical ribs... and the brackets. Yes, I have a sickness.
Anywho, on to the pictures. Had to bend the law to feel adequately protected for a large cash purchase. Stupid CA gun laws make my gun as useful as a rock, unless you flirt with the law of course.
Transaction went smooth, no hollow points were harmed in the making of this deal. Got um home, unloaded and went to SD SX.
Had to snap pics before I left. Spindles seem nice.
I was told the custom spindles were done by ES mostorports. Being fixed with no adjustment...Hopefully that camber is set right for the ride height I want. Otherwise I'm gonna have some fun trying to redo camber!!
Billet ends and that unique 3x bend/clamshell design that I loved of Threats. (don't see them done this way anymore... stoked on um aesthetically)
Darlington Bolts, BRO! Only lowers seem to be shanked... with some extra spacers for fun instead of cutting bolt down?
Picked up some unused Threat beams from the DR classifieds "nakedracer1433" guy if i recall correctly. Seem to be nicely re-worked. These were billet D35 ends. They have custom spindles with uniballs and Camburg weld in 2.25" snouts and hubs with squeal goods.
I also have a Threat link on order. Oops, I did it again. I really called him to talk myself into building my own beam and radius arm mounts (kit was missing those). I ended up ordering a new set of his new links with 2x vertical ribs... and the brackets. Yes, I have a sickness.
Anywho, on to the pictures. Had to bend the law to feel adequately protected for a large cash purchase. Stupid CA gun laws make my gun as useful as a rock, unless you flirt with the law of course.
Transaction went smooth, no hollow points were harmed in the making of this deal. Got um home, unloaded and went to SD SX.
Had to snap pics before I left. Spindles seem nice.
I was told the custom spindles were done by ES mostorports. Being fixed with no adjustment...Hopefully that camber is set right for the ride height I want. Otherwise I'm gonna have some fun trying to redo camber!!
Billet ends and that unique 3x bend/clamshell design that I loved of Threats. (don't see them done this way anymore... stoked on um aesthetically)
Darlington Bolts, BRO! Only lowers seem to be shanked... with some extra spacers for fun instead of cutting bolt down?
the bodj
Well-known member
Heck yeah!
got a ton done... thanks to help from JustN
Did I ever tell you how much I HATE this part. masking sucks...
end result is nice though.
That meant I could go full kill on assembly!!
Day 2. Set up the rear axle location for good and more assembly...
Rate that shock set up...
Did I ever tell you how much I HATE this part. masking sucks...
end result is nice though.
That meant I could go full kill on assembly!!
Rate that shock set up...
been slowly adding all the parts on the back. Trying to get brakes bled too... so it will be easier to move around. Will have to pull the brake lines in cab for handbrake when I eventually have to craptor line the floor though.
I keep saying almost done with fab... but had to build the bumper extender. This really helps as a high lift jacking point to get truck on the jack stands quick.
Also protects the high dollar light too!
Had to paint that... Hammered Black is now 10.48/can at Home Depot... yikes. Luckily... the dumbasses left an old price tag... and it was the only one leftm and happened to be Hammered Black. So made them price match their sticker at register. *looking back..should have got more than 3x cans. haha. Front is also coming back apart to get radiator issue fixed and mechanic work to do final install on crank pulley, PS stuff, etc.
I keep saying almost done with fab... but had to build the bumper extender. This really helps as a high lift jacking point to get truck on the jack stands quick.
Also protects the high dollar light too!
Had to paint that... Hammered Black is now 10.48/can at Home Depot... yikes. Luckily... the dumbasses left an old price tag... and it was the only one leftm and happened to be Hammered Black. So made them price match their sticker at register. *looking back..should have got more than 3x cans. haha. Front is also coming back apart to get radiator issue fixed and mechanic work to do final install on crank pulley, PS stuff, etc.
SO uhh... bled the brakes, after fixing a bunch of leaks of coarse. Tightened them all down harder and it seemed to work.
Brakes are definitley a tad mushy feeling in terms of pedal feel and more travel than I like. They don't quite touch floor though. Also, don't really know how to use balance bar yet. So, I don't know if it is the front brakes or rear brakes that are mushy. The hoon handle feels tight. Here is my main complaint though:
I feel like the rear hand break/hoon handle does seem to make the entire pedal lose some stroke. Ie. If you hold the hoon handle, you can step on brakes and it seems firmer further up stroke. Let go of handle, and foot pedal will drop in stroke without really changing line pressure? If you just hit foot brakes WITHOUT touching hoon handle at all... the hoon handle will lurch forward first(taking a significant amount of pedal movement) ... and then it will build pressure.
I wonder if there is a way to improve this? Again, when you step on brake pedal, it will move the hoon handle a bit. You can move the pedal/lever back and forth with foot/hand together without seeming to change line pressure much in the back. So to me, it seems something could improve between foot master and hand master... because fluid is moving back and forth in that slop... and isn't doing anything. Perhaps you could add a residual pressure valve in the line between the rear master cylinder and the hoon handle??
I havent driven it or tested rolling or anyting... so who knows how they really stop(or don't). They hold up a 230lb human on a wrench as leverage.. with hardly any effort. Redneck test sucess... I know it will slow you down some. hahah.
And zip tied a bunch of stuff over last few weeks. two for one combo.
Also got the trans shifting issue fixed. I was a moron when I put bracket guide wrong on internal rod/lever for shifter arm. After dopping trans pan and fixing that, cable is now attached and shifts through all gears!! Took dust boot off old trans. Seems to work! I probably should have added a bung to trans pan for trans temp..... Shit... might have to do that again before I fill it. Probably needs a new gasket now anyway... Going to weld on zip tie tab to keep cable away from exhaust tonight.
Brakes are definitley a tad mushy feeling in terms of pedal feel and more travel than I like. They don't quite touch floor though. Also, don't really know how to use balance bar yet. So, I don't know if it is the front brakes or rear brakes that are mushy. The hoon handle feels tight. Here is my main complaint though:
I feel like the rear hand break/hoon handle does seem to make the entire pedal lose some stroke. Ie. If you hold the hoon handle, you can step on brakes and it seems firmer further up stroke. Let go of handle, and foot pedal will drop in stroke without really changing line pressure? If you just hit foot brakes WITHOUT touching hoon handle at all... the hoon handle will lurch forward first(taking a significant amount of pedal movement) ... and then it will build pressure.
I wonder if there is a way to improve this? Again, when you step on brake pedal, it will move the hoon handle a bit. You can move the pedal/lever back and forth with foot/hand together without seeming to change line pressure much in the back. So to me, it seems something could improve between foot master and hand master... because fluid is moving back and forth in that slop... and isn't doing anything. Perhaps you could add a residual pressure valve in the line between the rear master cylinder and the hoon handle??
I havent driven it or tested rolling or anyting... so who knows how they really stop(or don't). They hold up a 230lb human on a wrench as leverage.. with hardly any effort. Redneck test sucess... I know it will slow you down some. hahah.
And zip tied a bunch of stuff over last few weeks. two for one combo.
Also got the trans shifting issue fixed. I was a moron when I put bracket guide wrong on internal rod/lever for shifter arm. After dopping trans pan and fixing that, cable is now attached and shifts through all gears!! Took dust boot off old trans. Seems to work! I probably should have added a bung to trans pan for trans temp..... Shit... might have to do that again before I fill it. Probably needs a new gasket now anyway... Going to weld on zip tie tab to keep cable away from exhaust tonight.
^^ It's from a 2006 Chevy truck with 4l80e. I bet any 4l80e from factory has one. It gets a tiny bit tight and is fully collapsed when in 4th, but does not seem to interfere with shifting at all from what I can tell.
So, nobody has any advice, experience, or shit talking on the brakes??
Working on this thing now... gonna get JD fab to weld it for me.
Ordered a bunch of parts to make power steering lines. $107 for all fittings and 3ft of hose. Will still need 5/8 rubber hose for feed from reservoir to pump.
Did I complain about inflation enough yet? Had to get some hose clamps for mounting these blingy things last night. Those fucking things are $3.28/ea now at Home Depot!! WTF!?
Close fit as usual!! Not quite as accessible as I would like them... but they didn't look good anywhere else really. And we all know it's about the show. lol
So, nobody has any advice, experience, or shit talking on the brakes??
Working on this thing now... gonna get JD fab to weld it for me.
Ordered a bunch of parts to make power steering lines. $107 for all fittings and 3ft of hose. Will still need 5/8 rubber hose for feed from reservoir to pump.
Did I complain about inflation enough yet? Had to get some hose clamps for mounting these blingy things last night. Those fucking things are $3.28/ea now at Home Depot!! WTF!?
Close fit as usual!! Not quite as accessible as I would like them... but they didn't look good anywhere else really. And we all know it's about the show. lol
Last edited:
the bodj
Well-known member
^^ It's from a 2006 Chevy truck with 4l80e. I bet any 4l80e from factory has one. It gets a tiny bit tight and is fully collapsed when in 4th, but does not seem to interfere with shifting at all from what I can tell.
So, nobody has any advice, experience, or shit talking on the brakes??
Working on this thing now... gonna get JD fab to weld it for me.
Ordered a bunch of parts to make power steering lines. $107 for all fittings and 3ft of hose. Will still need 5/8 rubber hose for feed from reservoir to pump.
Did I complain about inflation enough yet? Had to get some hose clamps for mounting these blingy things last night. Those fucking things are $3.28/ea now at Home Depot!! WTF!?
Close fit as usual!! Not quite as accesible as I would like them... but they didn't look good anywhere else really. And we all know it's about the show. lol
Are you pulling the handbrake at the same time as pushing the brake pedal? Both should be done at the same time, according to these guys
So, tried to torque the balancer/crank pulley on. I read it was 37lb ft... then get it to go 140* further of bolt rotation. Well, I got it to like 100*.... and then my tool broke. Gonna have to assume it is tight enough. Had a huge cheater and swear shit was bout to blow up.... then I heard the cracking sound. lol
Got the rock screen installed.
And did lots of mechanic work you don't see... got all the fuel fittings tightened up, and intake mounted, and injectors plugged in. Then I could throw on the exhaust. Which made me realize... shit, have to move the fire extinguishers up! They would have been getting blasted a little by exhaust... and dont want to be reaching around hot exhaust too. So, those got moved up some.
Need to get the vent line figured out on cell and it will be ready to be fueled.
Got the rock screen installed.
And did lots of mechanic work you don't see... got all the fuel fittings tightened up, and intake mounted, and injectors plugged in. Then I could throw on the exhaust. Which made me realize... shit, have to move the fire extinguishers up! They would have been getting blasted a little by exhaust... and dont want to be reaching around hot exhaust too. So, those got moved up some.
Need to get the vent line figured out on cell and it will be ready to be fueled.
theycallmeWALLY
Administrator
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2022
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- 1,470
What's everyone's thoughts on the fire extinguisher mounted like this... I was always concerned that if I had rolled the truck the FE might get damaged or not able to be take off or something.
Truck looks nice man. Getting close
Truck looks nice man. Getting close
michael_gonzalez
Active member
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2022
- Messages
- 144
There should always be extinguishers inside the truck as well.
Also not a fan of mounting them where they will be destroyed in a roll.
should be pretty safe there actually... if you draw a line from roof to top of tire, I think they should be ok? Plus, i think I saw them there on someone elses truck.. so that's proof they will be fine! AHAHHA
Would have been safer lower... and perhaps off side/ tube that goes to shock support. But, I hated them there. Form over function bro-chacho!
And something I really should be getting ... is fire suppression for in the cab. Kind of over spending money on this though. It's getting up there. Just turned another page in the cost book. Now everything is way more too. big oof
Would have been safer lower... and perhaps off side/ tube that goes to shock support. But, I hated them there. Form over function bro-chacho!
And something I really should be getting ... is fire suppression for in the cab. Kind of over spending money on this though. It's getting up there. Just turned another page in the cost book. Now everything is way more too. big oof
theycallmeWALLY
Administrator
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2022
- Messages
- 1,470
Big reason I haven't pulled the trigger on linking my truck. Sure I could do it the cheap way and just throw some links on it and then chase down everything that brakes quicker or.... new motor, trans, rear end and I may as well start over haha.
snowballs can make or break ya! lol
Got my fittings in yesterday afternoon... and quickly installed the Inverted flare to AN 6 adapters into the steering box... and then made some power steering lines. Hope they don't leak... although, I suppose it's not like they are any more important than the brake lines I made. LOL
The high pressure one was kind of a pain to get clocked right and tight. (Hose spins when you get tight.) Of course this is one I had to back off and re-clock a little. So, we'll see if it works.
Low pressure return. Not as likely to leak.
Just ran to lunch and got 5/8" for the barbed suction line. Not my favorite route... but couldn't come up with anything else that would work. Really wish I could hide it better.
Got my fittings in yesterday afternoon... and quickly installed the Inverted flare to AN 6 adapters into the steering box... and then made some power steering lines. Hope they don't leak... although, I suppose it's not like they are any more important than the brake lines I made. LOL
The high pressure one was kind of a pain to get clocked right and tight. (Hose spins when you get tight.) Of course this is one I had to back off and re-clock a little. So, we'll see if it works.
Low pressure return. Not as likely to leak.
Just ran to lunch and got 5/8" for the barbed suction line. Not my favorite route... but couldn't come up with anything else that would work. Really wish I could hide it better.
the bodj
Well-known member
Nice! You'll be driving it here pretty soon.
I ended up tig welding my high pressure lines together since I converted from the s10 saginaw pump to the explorer steering box. Holding strong so far!
I ended up tig welding my high pressure lines together since I converted from the s10 saginaw pump to the explorer steering box. Holding strong so far!
