Project G4 AKA Quasi-Ghetto
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Thomas Built Motorsports
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That’s the entire reason you do it.
With the balance bar you have to crack both calipers for the bar to stay perpendicular to the pedal on stroke.
Once bled go back and make sure the bar is as perpendicular as possible to pedal at full braking. No angle
ChristianEwing
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TBM nailed it 
It’s to keep equal pressure on both masters while the pedal is being pressed. I fucked off with that way to long before I figured that one out hahahaha
That’s if you are pedal pumping to bleed the brake system which I am assuming you’re doing? If you’re pressure bleeding them from each resi with the tricky dick AGM bleeder you don’t have to follow that process.
It’s to keep equal pressure on both masters while the pedal is being pressed. I fucked off with that way to long before I figured that one out hahahahaThat’s if you are pedal pumping to bleed the brake system which I am assuming you’re doing? If you’re pressure bleeding them from each resi with the tricky dick AGM bleeder you don’t have to follow that process.
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DialedShockPrep
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Just out of shear curiosity, how hard would it be to bypass the hoonigan handle and try bleeding the brakes without it inline?
ChristianEwing
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What are you thinkin on that?
HMM... I dunno.. the pedal still presses to the floor once you crack a bleeder. So, not seeing how angle of balance bar prevents it from bleeding. I redid it with Justin this weekend. Seems bled OK?
I suppose you would get more volume pushed through on each stroke if you did them all at once?
I really want to get a fancy bleeder though. Nice tools make things way better. And you can do it yourself.
I def feel like my brakes would be better if the hoon handle wasn't in line. Like I said before... it seems to rob some of the foot pedal stroke. (when you press brakes... the hoon master seems to take away some fluid volume as it gets pushed open fully and pressurized)
If you pull hoon handle first, the foot pedal is stiffer, earlier in the stroke.
I suppose you would get more volume pushed through on each stroke if you did them all at once?
I really want to get a fancy bleeder though. Nice tools make things way better. And you can do it yourself.
I def feel like my brakes would be better if the hoon handle wasn't in line. Like I said before... it seems to rob some of the foot pedal stroke. (when you press brakes... the hoon master seems to take away some fluid volume as it gets pushed open fully and pressurized)
If you pull hoon handle first, the foot pedal is stiffer, earlier in the stroke.
DialedShockPrep
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Fluid moves but cannot compress. If he has something else inline that can somewhat compress or have a bit of blow by, it will make the brake pedal feel mushy. Think of the brake pedal as a small hydraulic cylinder with lines plumbed to another hydraulic cylinder with additional lines plumbed to the calipers which are.. small hydraulic cylinders lol. You are now expecting the ONE cylinder at the pedal to move a lot of fluid down stream to compensate for all the places the fluid can move to.
Normal brake systems have the main cylinder and the caliper cylinders, nothing in between. So by removing the hoon handle out of the equation, it eliminates about 40% of the potential issues. Divide and conquer.
Maybe try adding an adjustable stop to the handle so it doesn’t open fully, and that will prevent the fluid from traveling into the handle before pushing the caliper pistons. Similar idea to having a residual valve in the brake system to maintain a low PSI.
ChristianEwing
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That does make sense Kevin!
A little late since you already have it plumbed, but I would recommend not running a hand brake in line with the main brake system and running it to a separate set of calipers. Outside of the issues you are having with bleeding, you will also not be able to use the foot pedal and the hand brake at the same time. We have this same issue in the F150 having it inline as well. You are either pulling the handle or you are putting your foot on the brake pedal, if you try and do both at the same time the pressures are fighting themselves and you will not be able to do anything. After driving our truck its not a comforting feeling. If you get over trying to get the proper pressure with the way its setup right now, it would be very beneficial to run it seperately. A pair of wilwood 4 piston superlite calipers with an aggressive pad would be plenty on their own to get the truck to do what youre wanting to do for the hand brake, especially in the dirt
A little late since you already have it plumbed, but I would recommend not running a hand brake in line with the main brake system and running it to a separate set of calipers. Outside of the issues you are having with bleeding, you will also not be able to use the foot pedal and the hand brake at the same time. We have this same issue in the F150 having it inline as well. You are either pulling the handle or you are putting your foot on the brake pedal, if you try and do both at the same time the pressures are fighting themselves and you will not be able to do anything. After driving our truck its not a comforting feeling. If you get over trying to get the proper pressure with the way its setup right now, it would be very beneficial to run it seperately. A pair of wilwood 4 piston superlite calipers with an aggressive pad would be plenty on their own to get the truck to do what youre wanting to do for the hand brake, especially in the dirt
^^ I have been contemplating if adding a residial pressure valve would help in between the rear master and the hoon master??
Also thought about possibility of trying to limit that excess forward handle slack. But, def don't want to cause any drag either....
Also thought about possibility of trying to limit that excess forward handle slack. But, def don't want to cause any drag either....
Cleandezert
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kibbe put 2 sets of calipers on my fraptor. although when i got it the hoon calipers had twisted mounts, so i pulled them all off.
ChristianEwing
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From what I can tell its a single caliper rear setup just based off brakelines on the housing. I cant find a good photo with a rear wheel off of one of these anywhere haha.
Cleandezert
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single caliper
blue oval
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Not sure if this applies, but there is a different technique for bleeding with turning brakes.
push down the brake pedal and then push and hold the cutting brake lever.
Purge the air from the caliper.
close the bleeder but continue to hold the cutting brake.
release the pedal but not the cutting brake.
pump the pedal slowly, allowing the cutting brake to return but with hand pressure against it until the pedal pumping has pushed the cutting brake handle back to neutral.
push down the brake pedal and then push and hold the cutting brake lever.
Purge the air from the caliper.
close the bleeder but continue to hold the cutting brake.
release the pedal but not the cutting brake.
pump the pedal slowly, allowing the cutting brake to return but with hand pressure against it until the pedal pumping has pushed the cutting brake handle back to neutral.
Been waiting for trans still. So getting into the real shitty busy work.
Set toe up front using new toe plates and tightened steering. Soo much easier with toe plates. I also want to get main tie rods redone at some point. JUst feel like 1.25 x.250 wall isn't going to be stongenough.
Oh, I also I resprung the rear to 400/450. It was 300/450 which wasn't enough.. especially with the less than 10 gallons fuel in it.
Now it is on the slight high side with 9" of bypass shaft on a basically empy tank.... with zero pre-load on shock when fully extended. (I can still lower it some if I want to, because I can put it to zero pre-load on the straps.)
I still suck at this body work stuff and don't care for it... but just gonna keep on truckin.
Set toe up front using new toe plates and tightened steering. Soo much easier with toe plates. I also want to get main tie rods redone at some point. JUst feel like 1.25 x.250 wall isn't going to be stongenough.
Oh, I also I resprung the rear to 400/450. It was 300/450 which wasn't enough.. especially with the less than 10 gallons fuel in it.
Now it is on the slight high side with 9" of bypass shaft on a basically empy tank.... with zero pre-load on shock when fully extended. (I can still lower it some if I want to, because I can put it to zero pre-load on the straps.)
I still suck at this body work stuff and don't care for it... but just gonna keep on truckin.
2 ghetto is currently at "0" pre-load in front on straps ... and actually think it is in the back right now too. I wanted to get it low for tuff trucks and see how it did in the open desert a few years ago. It actually works pretty good where it is at. The open desert is a little better at a higher ride height, but for overall performance everywhere like tuff trucks, jump champs, desert, mall parking lots, it seems to work well.
I do want to add back a little more to the rear because of balance issues. It's too ass heavy right now and doesn't quite handle as well as it did before with a touch more ride height in rear. I feel like a beamed truck that is sitting level or slightly lower in front handles best. CA lean seems to make it push a little in corners. And you need enough up travel to keep it happy in open desert.
I think for overall... I might raise 2ghetto a tiny bit overall. Next refresh/ shock rebuild(when I finish G4)... my plan is to raise it up a tiny bit more in front and fix balance by raising rear more too.
So yea for G4, I am gonna try to run close to 0 on the front... and a little in the rear for it's lowest setting. My goal was 0-1 in front and 1-2 in rear on straps, when at 50% ride height.
It seems to be closer to what I was shooting for with the new 400/450 springs. It has over 13" of uptravel in back where it is now. I think I want that closer to 12. (The shaft should be about 50% in rear bypass at 12.5") We'll see where it ends up. like maybe 1" or so on straps in back?
I can always raise it up from the low setting to get more up travel. If I need to go lower than 50% ride height overall. I will probably need to get lower rate on front top spring, and switch out the back one again too (Front is 350/450 now)
I do want to add back a little more to the rear because of balance issues. It's too ass heavy right now and doesn't quite handle as well as it did before with a touch more ride height in rear. I feel like a beamed truck that is sitting level or slightly lower in front handles best. CA lean seems to make it push a little in corners. And you need enough up travel to keep it happy in open desert.
I think for overall... I might raise 2ghetto a tiny bit overall. Next refresh/ shock rebuild(when I finish G4)... my plan is to raise it up a tiny bit more in front and fix balance by raising rear more too.
So yea for G4, I am gonna try to run close to 0 on the front... and a little in the rear for it's lowest setting. My goal was 0-1 in front and 1-2 in rear on straps, when at 50% ride height.
It seems to be closer to what I was shooting for with the new 400/450 springs. It has over 13" of uptravel in back where it is now. I think I want that closer to 12. (The shaft should be about 50% in rear bypass at 12.5") We'll see where it ends up. like maybe 1" or so on straps in back?
I can always raise it up from the low setting to get more up travel. If I need to go lower than 50% ride height overall. I will probably need to get lower rate on front top spring, and switch out the back one again too (Front is 350/450 now)
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