Project G4 AKA Quasi-Ghetto

I didnt drill any holes or anything though... hmm. I'm doind all sorts of dumb stuff. LOL

yeah that not good. you sent a shit load of pressure to reverse and that explains why you have reverse then you dont. you may have blown something in the direct drive or even the sealing rings.

i think you compounded this issue with initially driving it low on fluid and not finishing the instructions. at this point, i think the simple options are pretty much out...
 
agreed my example is relying on gravity and in the case of a cooler id rather have the return to the pan relying on gravity and not the pump.
in terms of flow, the return relys on the pump no matter what. the moment you shut off the rig, its gravity but in your case, it will now be 2 quarts or more overfull (due to drain back from valve body, center support and clutches, not including the possible worn sealing rings on the converter that will allow another 2+ quarts back into the trans) or thelines the other way which now only is slightly overful and allowing for drain back from the converter and the cooler over time at a slower rate.

at the end of the day, no matter how you want to route it or think about it, the pan will never be starved of oil when properly filled. after teh truck sits for some time, its going to have the same amount of oil drained back into the trans no matter the line configuration as well.
 
^^^ Thanks for taking the time to talk to me Mike!! Appreciate it big time.

just hoping i didnt pump a bunch of metal around... will probably get tool to check line pressure for fun.
 
^^^ Thanks for taking the time to talk to me Mike!! Appreciate it big time.

just hoping i didnt pump a bunch of metal around... will probably get tool to check line pressure for fun.
its not a massive deal if you did. if you can find a shop with a "hot flush" machine, it will take it all out of the cooler. are you in SD or LA?
 
San Diego. Escondido to be exact.

Oh, and I have done reading online where people supposedly just wire up solenoids like mine is... and run the stock trans no problem with full line pressure.. So, I don't necessarily believe reverse is jacked because of that kit. Not to mention.. reverse currently works the best! LOL

it was in this thread. Some other guy that makes a similar type solution with switches to control the solenoids.

 
San Diego. Escondido to be exact.

Oh, and I have done reading online where people supposedly just wire up solenoids like mine is... and run the stock trans no problem with full line pressure.. So, I don't necessarily believe reverse is jacked because of that kit. Not to mention.. reverse currently works the best! LOL

it was in this thread. Some other guy that makes a similar type solution with switches to control the solenoids.

Didn't realize you were in Escondido!

We'll need to plan a man date and have a beer. I'm up in Valley Center just past Lake Wohlford.
 
San Diego. Escondido to be exact.

Oh, and I have done reading online where people supposedly just wire up solenoids like mine is... and run the stock trans no problem with full line pressure.. So, I don't necessarily believe reverse is jacked because of that kit. Not to mention.. reverse currently works the best! LOL

it was in this thread. Some other guy that makes a similar type solution with switches to control the solenoids.


well it wouldnt be worth the drive to see my buddy in Fullerton then unless you really wanted to. he could go through the trans and clean the cooler at the same time. Its my buddy Evan at Inglewood Transmissions.

you mean the 4l60 that guy is talking about? id take it with a grain of salt as its not apples to apples here. they are not the same inside. im not syaing what you did killed the trans but it may not have helped. i dont know enough on the hydraulics side of the 4l80 to confirm it but the low fluid drive a much much higher culprit to the problem.
 
I am gonna be running a RADesigns winters shift controller for my 4l80e. I also ran one of their units in my Tacoma with the A340 Trans and it worked awesome. I'm guessing something internally is messed up since auto trans if you don't follow every install instruction exact it will destroy itself.
 
^^ LOL. I am over by 15 fwy and 9th.

So, been spending too much time trying to dial in my dash and warnings at lunch and evenings to distract me from the trans. I also have been working on the ECU pin mapping and made a custom fan trigger. It will turn the engine fan on anytime it is over 180... but ONLY if the engine is running. That way I get more power for starting. Just need to configure the rest in SwitchPros, and it should be done.

I configured two dashboards so far. It's pretty cool what this stuff can do. I have it so my battery gauge blinks yellow under 12.5....and red under 11V. Same thing for trans temp and CTS.. have it so it is yellow warning when cold. Oil is red flash under 10PSI.. set my redline to match and everything. I set redline at 6,500. Even have a TPS gauge... you know.. just to show the passenger when I am flooring it. LOL.

I swear this thing can record and data log too.... so at some point you know I am gonna have to fuck with that. Maybe log a tuff trucks race. It's like 45 seconds. Have the Holley GPS/speedo on the way too.

This one seems "prettier".. but not as functional. Camera missed the yellow warning flashes here...
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I will probably run this one. And posting this made me realize i need to add the lil Oil icon to the pressure gauge too. And will fiddle with the numbers on different axis too. OCD in me won't let them be too diff
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still not working on the important stuff like the trans. LOL.

But, did get the Baja designs "rock" lights all wired up. I am using these as inspection lights really. Here is the harness on back for rock lights and whip light. Should be OK up there right.. I mean AC condenser doesn't get that hot, right?

just noticed G1 lphoto bombing this photo too
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Rear lights working. Light up the diff area real good... and also can see hubs etc. Perfect.

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And here is the front rock light harness. It is tied into body harness with 4 pin connecter with 3x other unused outputs that I can use in the future if needed. I wanted to keep it water tight.. but didnt have any cavity plugs for weatherpack... turns out the metripack cavity plugs will fit if you smash them in.
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Front lights... not bad coverage..

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Can see some key components. def lacking light on front of engine. Good thing I could always add more and grab one of those extra outputs if i need to. (and simply configure to same switch in switchpros)

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Still avoiding the tranny. Nobody I know likes fucking with trannies. LOL

Got my Holley GPS and got that set up in 5 minutes. So, now it has a speedo on dash ... in addition to GPS on the iPAD. Holley one should be less accurate..

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Got another wiring part done. Such a small thing is actually a big job. Made a mini harness that wires in the factory connector to 3rd brake light/cargo lights, a connector for S2 dust light, a connector for dome lights, and connector to wiring from dash up to the top/back.

Dome lights themselves were a pain in the ass connecting all the tiny ass wires together... and are non removable.

All works! What's really weird to me... is shit works before a ground is attached!! These pics were taken before I attached the ground. How? must be grounding through the switch pros main ground?

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Still avoiding tranny... did get all the wiring figured out for power door locks, power windows, and the power mirrors and made sure that was all working too. #BusinessClassPrerunner status now.

First step was getting a power/fuse box. Mounted that and ran some power and ground to it

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Haynes manual had the wiring diagram for locks and windows. So got them going for testing:

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Had to look up a random one online for power mirrors ... but it had the power input labeled wrong for power to the switch. They show orange/light green. Which on mine was a speaker wire. LOL. Mine was actually light green/yellow.
Here that is for anyone else's reference:

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I am in process of connecting the two halves now, and doing fancy DR25 etc. Got half of it done at lunch today. Shit takes forever to heat shrink that much with my shitty heat gun.
Just so you get an idea of how much wire is on your truck. Each of these wires is about 8.5ft. That's about 100ft on this harness alone! I had approx 25 ft ... So, had to buy 70ft of different colored wires, heat shrink, etc. and went to town. Spent $127 at Prowire. Heat shrink alone was about half that. Oof.

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harness done for the doors. Everything works. Full power anytime the battery switch is on.

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Also added the Noico sound deadening foam to the bottom of dash, and 3m sticky zip tie holders. This is in an attempt to help prevent the annoying rattling sound from all those cables and connectors flopping around

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Still trying to avoid the trans... so moved on to audio. Have all 4x speakers installed now. Have an Alpine amp on way so I can roll in the 94 and let my alpine play. Inquiring about getting speaker boxes made so I can be lazy on that part. I did order a "bundle" from sonicelectronix where I got my 2x subwoofers for way cheaper than I could find them. And they come in a giant box that will be useless for my application.


So here is audio set up. nothing fancy. just #businessclass
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Rockford Fosgate PMX3 head unit powering 4x Rockford Fosgate P1683 6 x 8 speakers
Alpine S-A60M 600W amplifier powering 2x Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-10 Subwoofers. I will wire it as 2ohms total resistance.
Trying to get a box made with these outside DIMMs 15 tall, 13.5 wide, and 8" deep. G3 has same DIMMs except 12 wide. I will need to cut some more sheet metal out of rear quarter pocket in order to fit the extra width... but I think it will be worth it to fill that space completely between b and c pillar. Really fighting to get enough "optimum" airspace for the 10" subs. I put optimum in quotes because the speakers in G3 supposedly need way more airspace than they have... and his shit sounds really good to me.

Really tight fit on the rear noise makers.... left just enough room to squeeze them in on the factory mounts.

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^^^ They sent me a single woofer and the box for 2!! HA, I knew it had to be too good to be true. Good news is.... I spoke to them and they are going to honor it because it was their mistake. SCORE!

Got my amp. She's getting ready to eat! Crazy how small a 600W amp can be now.

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Got the amp mounted. Used M4 rivnuts. Kept it low and in the center... cuz, you know... #racecar and #aesthetics.

Going to wire power, ground, etc to it now.

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still trying to get all the final wiring/cabling done. Still working on the radio and stereo right now. Had to wire in the wire for remote turn on of amp. For some reason the low level auto sensing didn't work like I hoped. Next up on that side is speaker boxes and wiring in headsets

Did do the UHF cables different this time. Found these stainless SO239 bulkheads for PL259 plugs. Saawwwet. Now I shouldn't have to do any stupid shit like crimp on new connectors... and no stupid wires thorugh grommets! Just got these finished at lunch today.
This side is for radio.

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And this one is for my AM/FM antenna in back on other side. 3ft cables with 90 ends on one end for both sides should arrive today

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