Project G4 AKA Quasi-Ghetto

Got the truck up to temp. Let it idle forever.. never got over 199-200 with fans on. That took radiator level down a little. So had to break into the 4th gallon of fluid for that.

Put almost 1.5 gallons of 250W gear oil I scored from a RDC member a while back. No leaks there, yet.

Think I might have overfilled trans finally. LOL. We'll see... but I am tired of huffing fumes.

SUPER close now. Gonna have to throw front fenders on and cycle one last time to make sure it all clears... then do final install and tighten up all jam nuts, etc. Also need to finish a few sub gnarnesses... one for rock lights up front, one for rock lights and whip in back, and one for video camera and license plate lights . Oh, also need to install rear driver side tail light.

Takes forver to heat shrink all this with my piece of shit heat shrink gun. longest leg is over 13ft.

hDThKx4n_o.jpg
 
I finished the main harness. Came out pretty good... So, moment of truth was on Sunday.

Had to tie up some loose cables for trans sensor... added some more fuel... and thought I had enough fluid in trans. It didn't prove to be enough though. Truck felt like it was in second... and like slipping. but reverse seemed to work.

I went tiny ways down street... came back... and it was slipping even worse in 1st and 2nd. Reverse still seemed to work at that moment... and got it backed up into driveway Thankfully. Then stopped. Then restarted and had NO forward or reverse or nothing. Of course, it starts to rain at this point. And we had to push it into garage. Which wasn't super easy.

I just went out to garage now. It was low on fluid. Added some, started it up...clicked reverse and the tires chirped. And in 1st too. So... pretty sure I just need to get fluid level correct and it will go. Stopping is a whole different problem. The brakes are horrific. I need to figure out what is going on for front brakes. Either master has air.. or line does... or the bore is mismatched badly. It doesnt stop for shit.(rear hand brake seems to work ok though.)

KJ6trqWu_o.jpg


CoV1y7ea_o.jpg


4wb4D7fY_o.jpg
 
So uhh yea.... something must be off on my 4l80e trans plumbing. I am making a mess now. Trans overflowed out dipstick.... shot it everywhere like a retard. Now I have a fun clean up.

Still only drives for like a few seconds and then loses forward or reverse power.

SO>> is the cooler still full of air or something? I don't get it. I have heard the pump should just pump it all through. I am going to verify my plumbing in a little bit. The cooler info says to plumb top as inlet and bottom as outlet. I think I did it this way.


Maybe this is my problem and if I reverse it... it will pump air up and out? Also ,if it were plumbed with inlet on top... wouldnt that let it all drain really easy... like I feel like I am experiencing?

I feel like pump would keep it in cooler if it were pushing it up and out. I could also in theory put a check valve in the line if it went this direction to prevent drain back. Other suggesged plumbing wouldnt really allow for a check valve.

The more I type this..the more I want to go just switch it and try.
 
I'v always been under the assumption in on bottom out on top to ensure no air in the cooler. That being said my CBR trans cooler is plumbed in bottom out top and i'v had no such issues as you.
 
Well.... i traced out the lines last night... and WTF.

From what I can tell. I appear to have plumbed the trans like everyone says to. I went from trans output to bottom of cooler and then out top of cooler to the return.

I have a newer 4l80e case. with the return fitting in the back.

So, WTF is going on?? Would too much oil cause this issue? I read it could foam up? Doesnt seem too likely..

wondering if i need a check valve at this point.
 
It’s not a check valve issue and drain back is perfectly fine. Allison’s had an issue with converter drain back in the early years of they sat for a week or two. All you do it let it idle for a min or two and then drop it in gear and go.

In your case, if you tried driving this thing on low fluid like you said you did before, it’s more likely you burned up the pump. I’d check and make sure the filter is still attached to the valve body and it didn’t fall in the pan for some reason but your pump is either not moving enough oil, the valve body is not working correctly due to gummy internals or you have other hurt parts.

I’m not sold on the fact the converter may be shot because to flip the fins inside and cause this issue, you needed to get the converter and fluid in it extremely hot. The lock up clutch has nothing to do with it as well because it’s strictly for lock up in higher gears. I mean, I could be possible the converter is hurt at this point but it’s stemming from a lack of fluid or fluid movement issues. Hopefully you didn’t hurt the pump or clutches/band trying to drive it
 
why does reverse work for a little bit when it is cold.... shit.. maybe even would still work when warm after it sits for a minute?? That's what is throwing me off...
 
why does reverse work for a little bit when it is cold.... shit.. maybe even would still work when warm after it sits for a minute?? That's what is throwing me off...
is it possible you are low on fluid still. works when cold because fluid is draining from cooler into pan... as it starts pumping out, cooler fills up and now pan is low and nothing wants to work.
 
you want top down on the cooler, if you are low on the fluid you can use all your fluid to fill the cooler starving the trans.

what is your line pressure?
 
what @mobil1syn says. input to the cooler should be on top. out put on the bottom. not sure if thats your problem.

what size of lines are you using?

did you fill the converter when installed? i have not done a lot of trans work (my disclaimer) but i have always heard this.

like said above, might need to check the filter in the pan, make sure the right one and right height.

partybarge (brian) ? he always has great info.
 
Why would I want top down? I have read conflicting info.

I don't see how it can be low on fluid. I think there is 4x gallons in there now! (and it spilled out top of fill tube. oops) But in my head it seems like this makes sense why it works, then doesnt. And seems time related at shut off? Not temp? I should watch that closer.

But at this point I am worried I am just pumping crap or metal everywhere if it is bad. I suppose cooler would already be fucked at this point and need a clean

I havent checked any line pressure. Dont have tool? dont know how to do that. But, I should probably get one and learn.... since I will be keeping this truck. LOL
 
capacity is like 14quarts for the trans IIRC, so once you add in the cooler and lines its a lot.

the idea is that any fluid that goes into the cooler you want to come out, so if you flow from the top there is no capacity of hydraulic restriction of fluid passing. think of it this way ... if you have a funnel fill it from the bottom, it will take a lot of capacity to overflow, if you fill it from the top the fluid will come out the bottom immediately.



Amazon product
 
Aaron you should be about 3-4 gallons of fluid depending on coolers. So you're good there.

Coolers and the converter will drain back. I recommend a locking dipstick. If it comes out the vent....then you're way over full.
 
capacity is like 14quarts for the trans IIRC, so once you add in the cooler and lines its a lot.

the idea is that any fluid that goes into the cooler you want to come out, so if you flow from the top there is no capacity of hydraulic restriction of fluid passing. think of it this way ... if you have a funnel fill it from the bottom, it will take a lot of capacity to overflow, if you fill it from the top the fluid will come out the bottom immediately.



Amazon product

thats analogy is based off gravity being the "pump" though. in a hydraulic pump situation, it doesnt matter. flow is flow. It really doesnt matter what way he orients the cooler, it will work just fine. car mfg have done it both ways. shit, an external cooler on a 6 speed allision fills from the top and exits from the top.

at any rate, the cooler is not his issue. @FasterNU, did you put a full manual valve body in that trans? or did you put something else in to electronically control it?
 
thats analogy is based off gravity being the "pump" though. in a hydraulic pump situation, it doesnt matter. flow is flow. It really doesnt matter what way he orients the cooler, it will work just fine. car mfg have done it both ways. shit, an external cooler on a 6 speed allision fills from the top and exits from the top.
agreed my example is relying on gravity and in the case of a cooler id rather have the return to the pan relying on gravity and not the pump.
 
I talked to CBR. They said you can run the line in either way. He said most people run them in to bottom so it pushes air out... but it does not matter.

Capacity of my cooler is roughly only 2 quarts! That was way lower than I expected.

I have a feeling the trans is jacked. Maybe the converter was somehow drained out and I didnt notice? Or maybe I fuvked it up when I separate it incorectly...Or maybe trans was fucked when i got it. Either way, looking like it needs to come out. I will check the fluid and the filter.

Why not try a couple things first. I like to learn. I will pick up that gauge too. Seems like a necessity for someone that is gonna own an auto. Did i ever mention I hate auto's? hahah.

Ph, and it has a "manual" valve body in the fact that it has the wires to solenoids all changed. Supposed to give full line pressure all the time, full manaul. I didnt drill any holes or anything though... hmm. I'm doind all sorts of dumb stuff. LOL

 
Back
Top