Project G4 AKA Quasi-Ghetto

[Klever]

I don't think switching gear ratio will help that much with cooling. But it will make your truck more "peppy, poppy and fun" LOL

Plus you have 0.75 overdrive so you can still do highway without turning 4,000 rpms.

I say 5.43's would be cool. But won't make a change in cooling; unless you just "lugged" it everywhere....which I know that's not the case. I drive more like an 80 year old and have zero heat issues.

 

[charlie brown]

like said, the gear ratio would not make any noticeable difference unless you are running around with very low rpm lugging. i would think with OD you would want to run 5:80/6:0 gears. you dont need to go 140mph. i run a 5:83 and wish i had a 6:0 plus. i have OD and drive my truck all over including to and from baja.

 

[the bodj]

Since you trailer your truck, you can totally get shorter gears. My 5.29s and 35s turn 2700rpm at about 72 mph. It’s not bad on the highway, but mileage isn’t great because of it. Bigger tires and trailers mean better gears for you!

 

[FasterNU]

Since you trailer your truck, you can totally get shorter gears. My 5.29s and 35s turn 2700rpm at about 72 mph. It’s not bad on the highway, but mileage isn’t great because of it. Bigger tires and trailers mean better gears for you!

yea, gonna probably be 5.43-5.83 when I decide on that.

So.. you arent having any trans temps issues? I have been paying special attention to cooler placement etc... and it seems everyone has them in the same spot as me. So WTF?

I have to admit.. I like driving it like I am racing. Not trying to be pompous or cool guy .... but from what I have seen... I feel like most people just don't drive their prerunner's that hard. I figured a small ranger with this cooler would be fine. Shit, a stock silverado must weigh the same...

I just tried to call Culhane to see what he has to say about temp, etc.

I started thinking a larger pan might help too? But... then I think that is just a bandaid... and it will just take longer to get hot... and stay hot longer?

I can't really see a clean way to get good clean air to front of cooler either. It would require some badass sheet metal work for sure... I think the only spot to pull it off cleanly would be to have pockets on rear fenders. Or, what about air from underneath truck? hmmm. Might need to bust out some strings and the GoPro like CharlieBrown said. Redneck wind tunnel! LOL

only photos from second test. should have gotten video of the camp double/turn... exactly like I have for 2ghetto to see/hear difference. maybe next time.

 

[the bodj]

I haven’t checked my trans temps yet. I will once I finish adding these coolers

 

[ChristianEwing]

2 main problems, and a 3rd as well but will cost you $$$.

1, Your exhaust routing is the biggest culprit. That hot air rising directly into the cooler in a spot in the chassis that is a dead zone for air flow is heat soaking that cooler. Heat shielding on the exhaust will help some but I dont think it will completely solve the problem

2, The trans cooler is too low in the chassis and the fuel cell is blocking the majority of the air flow through the front side of the cooler. If you cut the mounts off the chassis and pivoted the cooler up on the top side more to get it away from the cell a bit its gonna help alot. Granted it wont be inline with your downtubes anymore but id rather have a trans run cooler than have it visually look a certain way

3, I recommend going to the CBR0059. This is what I run on everything. For what you're trying to do with this truck and based off what you're saying about how you drive this thing, that cooler you have isn't enough for the spot you have it mounted in. If you had perfect air flow going to it, it would be borderline enough. Jumping up in size on the cooler as well as going to 12" fans will drop temps a good amount in a area that isn't getting good air flow on its own, combined that with some heat wrap on the exhaust and bringing the front edge of the cooler up a bit you should never have a trans temp problem again.

Changing gearing to alleviate trans temp is just another band-aid fix that ultimately wont do much. Not only that, just the thought of being limited on gearing options because you're worried about trans temps seems ridiculous it should never be a deciding factor

I dont know if it was talked about yet, but which way do you have the cooler plumbed? Where does the hot side coming from the trans enter and the cold side going to the trans exit?

 

[ChristianEwing]

Our coolers are in very similar spots, the one on the f150 is mounted up higher away from the fuel cell though and is getting more air flow through the front of it. This truck is running the 0059 cooler on it and we’ve never had this trans get over 200* ever. It’s usually in the 160-180 range and have to make sure we keep an eye on it because with both fans on the thing borderline runs too cold. This truck gets its ass handed to it everytime it gets driven

 

[FasterNU]

Hmm, that's looks to be in a fairly similar spot when it comes to airflow, no? Your cooler is one step up in size. But so is everything else, size, weight, tires, etc, right? lol

and yea, I dont wanna tilt mine up and make it all fugly either!!

You know what though... there is space in my "trunk" area... where my shovel is. I could fit another one of these fuckers.. maybe even that big juan?

And I'm changin gears to 5.43-5.83 for sure anyway. Also adding pan with extra capacity. Might as well, because my stock pan is leaking anyway.

Gonna get heat shield products for exhaust too.

OH>>> and i am pumping it in the bottom and out the top. Which... CBR says the opposite. But everyone online said this way?

 

[FasterNU]

OK, reporting live... no way I can fit the big Juan. that 0059 is huge compared to the 9838 that I have. It's 30" across which is into my chassis/frame rails. Probably why I chose the one I did in first place. I could fit another one like I have though.

 

[96f-u250]

What about some sweet ass TT air ducting going from the roof to the coolers. After heat wrapping the exhaust too.

 

[FasterNU]

^^ yea, I really want to keep as clean a look as possible so don't want to do that. That is why cooler is down low, etc. If I were to do any ducting... I would want it to come from either fenders... or from underneath.

 

[ChristianEwing]

TBH Ive never gone through the build thread on this thing, but looking back now WTF is mounted in front of the trans cooler?! Is that a AC condenser?? Thats also a big part of your problem as well!

 

[FasterNU]

hahah. it is!! aint got room for anything up front!!

 

[FasterNU]

Dont worry though... I just bought this deep pan that is gonna fix it all:

GM 4L80 & 4L80E Transmission Cooling Pan

GM 4L80 & 4L80E Transmission Cooling Pan Cooling Pans Transmission Cooling Pan, GM 4L80/4L80E 14207, 14208, 14200, 14201, 14202, 14204, 14207, 14208, 14210, 13010, 14000, 14002, 14010, 142xx

derale.com

It has turbulators bro!! The ad says it will drop temps by 50* !! LMAO. Can't wait to test that.

But I just had to, cuz #turBROlators.... and the "two stage heat dissipating black finish"... just think how many bitches that will get alone!

 

[Cleandezert]

deep pans will just prolong how long it takes to get hot.

 

[FasterNU]

^^yea... that's how I figured it. I needed a new pan though. I had the stock pan on backorder for a few weeks before I even had these cooling issues. Tired of it leaking on garage floor....and they pushed it to Feb! So I cancelled that ... and I figure all these things will be fun tests. Besides, what's another $230 on $77,166.64. hahah.

I hate leaks. Even got the baller factory plastic/oring pan seal that was like $40!!

 

[Cleandezert]

^^yea... that's how I figured it. I needed a new pan though. I had the stock pan on backorder for a few weeks before I even had these cooling issues. Tired of it leaking on garage floor....and they pushed it to Feb! So I cancelled that ... and I figure all these things will be fun tests. Besides, what's another $230 on $77,166.64. hahah.

I hate leaks. Even got the baller factory plastic/oring pan seal that was like $40!!

I am right there with you on the leaks. Drives me nuts.

 

[Klever]

^^yea... that's how I figured it. I needed a new pan though. I had the stock pan on backorder for a few weeks before I even had these cooling issues. Tired of it leaking on garage floor....and they pushed it to Feb! So I cancelled that ... and I figure all these things will be fun tests. Besides, what's another $230 on $77,166.64. hahah.

I hate leaks. Even got the baller factory plastic/oring pan seal that was like $40!!

Oh man...You might end up hating that pan...packs with mud/dirt/ shit.

If you need any help Aaron just message me. I can swing down there or you come up here.

 

[charlie brown]

like christian said in #1 and #2 are your biggest offender and adding a AC condenser is like making that area a burrito warmer. no amount of fans will move enough air in that area the faster you go the more of a dead space it is.

could you move the AC condenser along the skid plate? if you could move the exhaust or some fancy tin work/heat shield.

all my coolers (AC, power steering, tans, radiator) are all up front and it is very marginal. when temps get up, AC comes off and driving style changes for a bit.

my next set up will be condenser along the skid plate, double coolers along the bed sides.

 

[FasterNU]

First thing Justin said. "Bro, them turbrolators are gonna get packed with mud!!" LOL.

I wondered if condenser wouldn't get enough air behind skid(not sure it would fit either)

I thought about possibility of doing 2x smaller AC condensers in series... in front of X behind grille. (the center header panel mount is right in the center) Can you put two condensers in series without any issue? Just put drier after second one? If so, I should check to see if there is room to do that. There is not much if any space there... but I will look.

Maybe I will report back here later. I am loading it up today because I am gonna do a day trip in Ocotillo Wells tomorrow.