Engine Filtration

Chimi

Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2023
Messages
26
Location
HI
What up Gang,

Figured id start a thread about engine filtration. The goal is maybe create a reference that others can look back on based on all your collective experience. I'm no master just like to nerd out on shit.

I was doing some research to combat the Moon dust we have out here. Based on what ive read it seems like Donaldson makes some good shit and running something like a PSD12 dual stage filter would match my CFM requirments for a NA 402 LS. Can even run a partical separator style pre filter so help it not pack up quite as much. I havent yet called them to confirm.

What does everyone else run?
 
What up Gang,

Figured id start a thread about engine filtration. The goal is maybe create a reference that others can look back on based on all your collective experience. I'm no master just like to nerd out on shit.

I was doing some research to combat the Moon dust we have out here. Based on what ive read it seems like Donaldson makes some good shit and running something like a PSD12 dual stage filter would match my CFM requirments for a NA 402 LS. Can even run a partical separator style pre filter so help it not pack up quite as much. I havent yet called them to confirm.

What does everyone else run?
Running k and N filter on 4Runner crawler with the 3rz so far so good

and a AME dry flow filter with a prefilter on mouse with 22re. Try to wash out after each trip slap it back on and cake it back up on the next adventure.
 
I have a Donaldson cartridge filter on the bronco, no dirt miles on it yet so I can’t talk about performance. I’m sure it will do better than the specter cone filter that was on there before though
-it’s big, so if your tight on space already fitting a big cartridge filter might be difficult.

My dad has a K&N filter on the jeep, no filter housing so it’s open to the engine compartment. It gets pretty dirty especially because he’s venting the crank case to atmosphere. (It’s on the list to hook back up to the intake)
But it seems to work fine 👍 though if I was to do it again I would try to stick a cartridge filter in there to avoid any issues with getting wet.
 
One HUGE thing that i see overlooked on a lot of customers cars is having a volume of filtered air ready for the engine to draw from. If you take a look at most every single OEM vehicle on the road, they have a long tube to an airbox and most typically the airbox has a large empty void below the filter. This section of filtered air is essential for engine performance so the engine can quickly pull in a bunch of filtered air so the negative pressure doesn’t immediately drop as the engine raises RPM’s. Due to space constraints it’s pretty common to see a small intake tube, or even no intake tube and a smaller cone filter strapped right onto the throttle body. This is the equivalent of trying to run a marathon with a pillow duct taped to your face. And this issue is compounded with bigger displacement engines or higher flowing heads and such that require a larger volume of air.
There are formulas you can find online to see if your filter setups are capable of flowing enough CFM to keep your engine breathing happy at higher RPM’s, and remember that those formulas are for clean filters, NOT dusty silt filled filters so a good rule of thumb is x2 filtration surface area than recommended.
 
One HUGE thing that i see overlooked on a lot of customers cars is having a volume of filtered air ready for the engine to draw from. If you take a look at most every single OEM vehicle on the road, they have a long tube to an airbox and most typically the airbox has a large empty void below the filter. This section of filtered air is essential for engine performance so the engine can quickly pull in a bunch of filtered air so the negative pressure doesn’t immediately drop as the engine raises RPM’s. Due to space constraints it’s pretty common to see a small intake tube, or even no intake tube and a smaller cone filter strapped right onto the throttle body. This is the equivalent of trying to run a marathon with a pillow duct taped to your face. And this issue is compounded with bigger displacement engines or higher flowing heads and such that require a larger volume of air.
There are formulas you can find online to see if your filter setups are capable of flowing enough CFM to keep your engine breathing happy at higher RPM’s, and remember that those formulas are for clean filters, NOT dusty silt filled filters so a good rule of thumb is x2 filtration surface area than recommended.
This would be fun to test. Unless you have a very restrictive filter, I don’t see the intake tube volume making any noticeable difference. The volume of air an intake tube holds is very little compared to what an engine uses at WOT. Of the air was somehow compressed that would change things but we know it’s not.
On a MAF intake setup the tube does smooth the air flow to get an accurate reading across the sensor but that’s not directly related to the air volume.
 
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