the bodj
Well-known member
I will be referring to Mr. Rouse for guidance in that manner, though I don't know why I shouldn't be able to just pop out the uniball, shove a poly pushing and sleeve in, and make mounts.
Local Legend Don't Call It An S10
- Thread starter the bodj
- Start date
I will be referring to Mr. Rouse for guidance in that manner, though I don't know why I shouldn't be able to just pop out the uniball, shove a poly pushing and sleeve in, and make mounts.
This definitely seems like the best option. LOL
That’s all rouse did, you have to make the bushings though. I couldn’t find anything with the right OD (1.1875”). Let me know if you need some lathe work.
Turboyota
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- Apr 1, 2022
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- 742
@the bodj
Inner sleeve is .75 x 0.120wall 4130
White is 6-6 Nylon 1.0x0.120” wall tube from mcmaster
Black is soft urethane 2”ODx.5” wall tube from McMaster. I custom ground a tool to cut it—which is really difficult to hold tolerances because it’s soft and moves all over the place. I suggest grinding whilst spinning the soft urethane in the lathe. Cuts down on the bypass noise by around 70%. Dodah bought some bushings for this propose, IIRC. Shoot him a text, or I’ll ask that bastard if I see him at work.
These are for 3.0’s:
I've heard liquid nitrogen the urethane helps you cut. And rinse and repeat numerous times. I believe orw sells urethane bushing kits for this purpose, may be worth a call to ask. Also call Daystar they may have some bushings already made or close that could work. They mfg lots of bushings that were private label but now sell to the public. I have an account with them if they require an account to order direct.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2643961920...vKtd_XUOQbWcYE2fC-ahENPC2W7cnL9BoC7IkQAvD_BwE
Maybe work for the 2.5" shocks BUT fox 2.0 usually run a COM 8 1/2" bearing NOT a COM10 5/8" bearing like the 2.5 shocks run.
I emailed my Rep at Daystar to see if they offer any bushing with similar dimensions to this one since that would work on the shocks and provide 1-1/2" mounting width with a proper hat to keep top cap off the tabs since the top caps are 1" or a tiny bit under width.
Maybe work for the 2.5" shocks BUT fox 2.0 usually run a COM 8 1/2" bearing NOT a COM10 5/8" bearing like the 2.5 shocks run.
I emailed my Rep at Daystar to see if they offer any bushing with similar dimensions to this one since that would work on the shocks and provide 1-1/2" mounting width with a proper hat to keep top cap off the tabs since the top caps are 1" or a tiny bit under width.
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the bodj
Well-known member
Any word from them?
Put the scanner to use last night mapping out my back half. In order to give me access to the cooler, tool boxes, and spare tire, I bought some heavy duty drawer slides to mount the rooftop tent to. I was throwing around the idea of putting it on a pivot, but it compromised access to one thing or another in every configuration. Plus, I'd need to put the tent away in order to tilt it to get into the cooler or grab a tool if at camp. This way, I can slide the tent out of the way, get it set up, and have full access to anything I need in the bed. Anyways, very few of my tubes are parallel or on a major axis. My traditional method of building it would be to prop the tent on top of the bed, get it level with blocks, and connect the dots to the bedcage with metal. Now, I can get it modeled and fitted without trying to muscle the RTT in place or getting it square/level. Should be a huge help!
Note: Scan looks rough, but I wasn't trying to get every bit of detail. I only needed the tubes, heights/widths of spare tire, tool boxes, and cooler.
the bodj
Well-known member
Modeled all the main components as solids I could work with, then got started on drawing some mounts. I forgot to include the drawer slides, so I have to go back and modify, but I also wasn't pleased with the lack of lateral stability the rear mount has. Back to the drawing board (computer).
Note: These are not getting welded on. They will be on 2"x.120 clam pieces that get held onto the existing cage work via hose clamps.
Note: These are not getting welded on. They will be on 2"x.120 clam pieces that get held onto the existing cage work via hose clamps.
the bodj
Well-known member
Nope! And the computer requirements to effectively run it are just as expensive lol
No word from daystar and I followed up with them again today.
https://www.daystarsuspensionparts.com/daystar-universal-shock-bushings.asp
KU08013BK is close to fitting but the dimension that would fit inside the COM10 bearing is around 0.100" smaller so you would have to do some kind of sleeve that fits into shock eyelet to reduce the ID down to around 1.060" so the bushing is squished in some. Also the width of the eyelet is 1" aka 25.4 mm and these are 23.38mm so they would be angled out a bit.
These are close But would require some grinding to get them to fit correctly.
https://www.suspension.com/bulk-2044
I drew the bushings to the correct dimensions today and wen I emailed them i included the drawing just to see how much it would cost for them to make me the mold and bushings to get them done since I believe they would be a good selling item for me to stock and sell myself and to distributors like Kartek, ORW, PolyPerformance, SDHQ, Accutune, 4WP, Mckenzies, etc
https://www.daystarsuspensionparts.com/daystar-universal-shock-bushings.asp
KU08013BK is close to fitting but the dimension that would fit inside the COM10 bearing is around 0.100" smaller so you would have to do some kind of sleeve that fits into shock eyelet to reduce the ID down to around 1.060" so the bushing is squished in some. Also the width of the eyelet is 1" aka 25.4 mm and these are 23.38mm so they would be angled out a bit.
These are close But would require some grinding to get them to fit correctly.
https://www.suspension.com/bulk-2044
I drew the bushings to the correct dimensions today and wen I emailed them i included the drawing just to see how much it would cost for them to make me the mold and bushings to get them done since I believe they would be a good selling item for me to stock and sell myself and to distributors like Kartek, ORW, PolyPerformance, SDHQ, Accutune, 4WP, Mckenzies, etc
84Prerunner
Well-known member
These exact bushings you guys are talking about have been made, not sure by who but we had some laying around the shop from 10+ years ago. It was all one piece, stepped down in the middle. Soft enough that it could be pressed into the shock from one side. I think they’ve all been used but I’ll check
84Prerunner
Well-known member
84Prerunner
Well-known member
Yep but I have run an hour glass shaped bushing in a shock made for a uniball. Just not sure who’s bushing it was. Worked just fine
96f-u250
Active member
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- Apr 4, 2022
- Messages
- 191
This is what I used on my FOA 2.5” Remote Resi rear shocks for my dailer driver to replace the com10 bearing.
Energy Suspension hourglass bushing 9.8107G with 5/8 ID. https://teamenergysuspension.com/pr...on-9-8107g-5-8in-hourglass-shock-eye-bushing/
I would trust the eBay link someone sent earlier for an offroad truck though, the hourglass bushings have a lot of squish to them.
Energy Suspension hourglass bushing 9.8107G with 5/8 ID. https://teamenergysuspension.com/pr...on-9-8107g-5-8in-hourglass-shock-eye-bushing/
I would trust the eBay link someone sent earlier for an offroad truck though, the hourglass bushings have a lot of squish to them.
the bodj
Well-known member
Back from Ohio for Christmas with the in-laws. Awesome time as always out there.
Anyways, got the front ripped apart, pulled the water pump neck off the water pump (not pictured here), got a frame made for the grill and plates to solid mount the headlights.
Anyways, got the front ripped apart, pulled the water pump neck off the water pump (not pictured here), got a frame made for the grill and plates to solid mount the headlights.
the bodj
Well-known member
Alright, got the water pump neck welded on (going to make a duplicate water pump to keep as a spare in the truck). Added a 1/4” nipple for the steam port by tapping a piece of 3/8” aluminum bar and welding it on under the inlet. Made an angled piece of aluminum to trap the bottom of the fan shroud and welded it on. For the top I riveted in a bent piece of 18g sheetmetal and self tapped it into the thick plastic of the shroud. The fit is great, and I’m getting really excited to have it all back together for KOH without cooling issues!
