1968 Ford F-250 Prerunner Build Thread

Yeah not being able to smell def will make things harder. Can't smell if there is gas leaking or what type of oil leaked out and is burning as easily that's for sure. Need a good codriver now not just a passenger
Time to train that pup of yours to be a service doggo!

But in all seriousness... that is crazy scary. Your pile of metal could have been literally a pile of metal. Stoked you were able to get it out though.

Mikey and I were talking yesterday about old fire extinguishers... MAKE SURE THEY AREN'T OLD.
 
Yeah not being able to smell def will make things harder. Can't smell if there is gas leaking or what type of oil leaked out and is burning as easily that's for sure. Need a good codriver now not just a passenger

Just give it a lick to tell. Coolant should taste like gatorade
 
I luckily have 5 extinguishers in the shop and 2 are brand new. Had my old 89 Toyota race truck catch on fire in Pismo back at the first test day with that thing. Fire extinguishers and tons of sand was used to out that one out without too much damage.
 
Ok well got some lift supports from mcmaster to try and make this hood lift and stay open automatically once unlatched and helped lifting. The issue i'm having is that the style of hood hinges I made the lift supports push the back of the hood up and forward. So if someone has a good idea I can try to make some lift supports work i'll do it like a normal hood with a hood prop.

9PAsNdqBQBGW1gIN-tKhMg.jpgRgeUJWOdQXulhea8w4NGWA.jpgxnLWbiqRRfCLzUUK_0g23g.jpg
 
Had downpipe off and applied the gold reflective tape onto the firewall. I have exhaust made with muffler to go under the cab BUY with a turbo I decided to ditch the muffler setup and have the exhaust dump out the passenger fender.
PXL_20221112_000010214.jpg
 
Ok well got some lift supports from mcmaster to try and make this hood lift and stay open automatically once unlatched and helped lifting. The issue i'm having is that the style of hood hinges I made the lift supports push the back of the hood up and forward. So if someone has a good idea I can try to make some lift supports work i'll do it like a normal hood with a hood prop.

View attachment 4515View attachment 4516View attachment 4517

i had the same problem with my fiberglass hood. i added more plate and tubs to try and keep the hood from flexing/bending all over. i am back to the old hood rod.
 
No photos but been reassembling the front end. The steering I had originally done actually wasn't gonna work. The angle of bolt at knuckle caused the tie rod heim to max out where the bend needed to be to clear everything lock to lock. So rebuilding swingers and tie rods with smaller bends to get it all to clear. Also gonna make the tie rods the same so I can have a single spare just Incase. In order to get straight tie rods which would be best, would require new fabricated knuckles to be made so I could do a longer steering arm at spindle so everything will clear the crazy passenger beam.
 
Basically switched what tie rod goes in front of the other. Still have to have a fairly decent bend in to clear beam pivot and swinger. No way around it unless someone wants to draw some new knuckles I could get snout blocks and BJ ears machined so I can make some fabricated knuckles to make longer steering arms on knuckles and correct the angle so I could do straight tie rods. Swingers are essentially the same but opposite on bushing tube.
PXL_20221202_191408751.jpgPXL_20221202_191414932.jpgPXL_20221202_191443064.jpg
 
Yeah looking back it would have been better just to do some extended D50 TTB and not try anything this crazy. There is very little camber change since the beams are so long
 
It will cycle more travel once I get some axles made and figure out how to remove the spring inside the passenger axle needed because I installed a Yukon duragrip up front which eliminates the c clip holding pass stub axle in.
 
Ok so redid the steering and made driver tie rod closer to beams and pass tie rod in front. Same angles for bends now and closer to the ends to less likely they will bend when driving this thing. Got them all painted and reassembled. Waiting on the delrin bushings I got to machine and install on swingers then will final torque everything and position tie rods so clear everything as it cycles. Also will tack the jam nuts good so they don't flop at all. Also finish welding the hood structure and painted that as well as hood hinge firewall tabs as well

PXL_20221216_233256808.jpgPXL_20221217_214936472.jpgPXL_20221217_214945659.jpgPXL_20221216_233301951.jpgPXL_20221216_233320677.jpg
 
Welded bung on intake tube to install my iat sensor. Installed throttle cable and then put the intake tube from Intercooler to TB back on. I hope for the last time but I know that's not the case. Also the gas and brake pedal locations and orientation look strange but they're comfortable when sitting and jumping from gas to brake. But like a lot of things I end up changing them and not having 3 seats anymore allow me to run a longer throttle cable that goes back and loops under center console to TB
PXL_20221220_234542401.jpgPXL_20221220_234549200.jpgPXL_20221220_234604468.jpg
 
Back
Top