To The Moon build

I swear... jumps dont usually get me very far into the bump zone. Especially not the landing.

Usually what gets me deeper into my bump stop travel are longer g-out events.... when I was taking videos of suspension I was surprised to see that the take off of a jump would get me more into the bump zone than the landing.

What gets really deep into the bump zone is like coming down into a wash and back out. Like big roller style terrain. Or going from flat ground into a big steep hill with bumps up the face. ie: Slower compression in terms of shaft speed, and for a longer time duration.
 
I swear... jumps dont usually get me very far into the bump zone. Especially not the landing.

Usually what gets me deeper into my bump stop travel are longer g-out events.... when I was taking videos of suspension I was surprised to see that the take off of a jump would get me more into the bump zone than the landing.

What gets really deep into the bump zone is like coming down into a wash and back out. Like big roller style terrain. Or going from flat ground into a big steep hill with bumps up the face. ie: Slower compression in terms of shaft speed, and for a longer time duration.
Ya that makes sense, especially since most of those type of impacts happen from ride hight-ish.
 
Had some friends at the swap meet and was able to score some goodies.
Been looking for a set of matching Walkers for my spares forever, as well as a hood that clears my intake. Also got a set of 39s but they will likely make their way onto the Rock Ranger.

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Yeah they do. I did notice when I cut the front of a ranger hood years ago for the tubes to clear to bumper like you have, that the corners of the hood would flop and it started to do some small cracks from the cut towards the back of the hood. I "fixed" it by adding an aluminum piece of strap and fiberglassing it under the bottom side of the hood. This made the outside of the hood slightly stiffer since you lose stiffness with front roll being cut.
 
Yeah they do. I did notice when I cut the front of a ranger hood years ago for the tubes to clear to bumper like you have, that the corners of the hood would flop and it started to do some small cracks from the cut towards the back of the hood. I "fixed" it by adding an aluminum piece of strap and fiberglassing it under the bottom side of the hood. This made the outside of the hood slightly stiffer since you lose stiffness with front roll being cut.

Good to know thanks. I'm probably taking it to a fiberglass guy to fill the existing mounting holes and fix a few things, I'll inquire about bracing it somehow.
 
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