84projectFORD
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2022
- Messages
- 272
Out of 3 days, only got 1 day to work on this thing [emoji2357]
Started with tear down and rebuild of the front diff. It got a spartan locker, new bearings/seals, 5.13 gears, new carrier so the 5.13 gears would work, and new u-joint in the stub shaft. This thing was not fun to setup. Shims are located behind the carrier bearings (between carrier and bearing) and pinion shims behind the inner race. This is not conducive to setting up gears quickly.
So I took the old inner pinion bearing and old Carrie bearings, machined the inside of them so they slip onto the carrie and pinion. That lets me adjust shims without pressing the damn bearings on and off. For the pinion, I started with stock shims. Cool part is this thing does not use a crush sleeve from factory, it’s already a solid sleeve style setup. Spent some time getting that dialed in (12-15in/lbs) and then worked on getting the carrier dialed in for back lash. Finally got it at .007” so I could run a gear pattern and honestly I dont feel the need to mess with it. Turned out really good as is. Pinion is probably a little on the deep side but good enough for what it’s going to be doing
Now that meant tearing it all back apart to change out the setup bearings for new bearings and putting back together.
After that, I popped new u-joints in the stub shaft that comes out the pass side of that diff. I also clearanced the stub for more angle. I have a feeling I’m going to need it but we will see once shocks are in and I can cycle everything.
Then proceeded to put the diff back in the beam and install the uni-balls in the beams. With those in, I put them in the tracker as well as the radius arms. As of now. The uni-ball cup hits the mount it’s attached to when letting the suspension down. I think I’m well past what actually full droop will be but if not, I’ll clearance them and should be good. There is enough meat in there
Can’t wait to run it!
Next up, I need to get paint, assemble the rest of the parts like knuckles and spindles for the final time and then I can start on shocks and mounts. Also need this little spring deal for the axles because the stub shaft that’s in the diff is no longer retained by a cir clip.
Started with tear down and rebuild of the front diff. It got a spartan locker, new bearings/seals, 5.13 gears, new carrier so the 5.13 gears would work, and new u-joint in the stub shaft. This thing was not fun to setup. Shims are located behind the carrier bearings (between carrier and bearing) and pinion shims behind the inner race. This is not conducive to setting up gears quickly.
So I took the old inner pinion bearing and old Carrie bearings, machined the inside of them so they slip onto the carrie and pinion. That lets me adjust shims without pressing the damn bearings on and off. For the pinion, I started with stock shims. Cool part is this thing does not use a crush sleeve from factory, it’s already a solid sleeve style setup. Spent some time getting that dialed in (12-15in/lbs) and then worked on getting the carrier dialed in for back lash. Finally got it at .007” so I could run a gear pattern and honestly I dont feel the need to mess with it. Turned out really good as is. Pinion is probably a little on the deep side but good enough for what it’s going to be doing
![88cdc955be3f7575d3d2eb767de116f6.jpg](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fuploads.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F20240528%2F88cdc955be3f7575d3d2eb767de116f6.jpg&hash=652908a295356abfef906972c74de228)
![04e0b7b2f42d000534ac36fccce3b256.jpg](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fuploads.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F20240528%2F04e0b7b2f42d000534ac36fccce3b256.jpg&hash=8329862da4534efbed44fc302940c194)
![d11b9e2dcd6a79816f50110b146c7d6a.jpg](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fuploads.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F20240528%2Fd11b9e2dcd6a79816f50110b146c7d6a.jpg&hash=941d44f80e8d7e34e93c6c02a0a361f4)
![cb248d37891704c07beaa57ed34a2ad1.jpg](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fuploads.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F20240528%2Fcb248d37891704c07beaa57ed34a2ad1.jpg&hash=d0f9a9f36a6f17fa12025b7634190ed8)
![33085045a1eac886de6353b4d7ee750d.jpg](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fuploads.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F20240528%2F33085045a1eac886de6353b4d7ee750d.jpg&hash=3d6eeba5b70babf3649f6d3ff1df35d5)
Now that meant tearing it all back apart to change out the setup bearings for new bearings and putting back together.
After that, I popped new u-joints in the stub shaft that comes out the pass side of that diff. I also clearanced the stub for more angle. I have a feeling I’m going to need it but we will see once shocks are in and I can cycle everything.
Then proceeded to put the diff back in the beam and install the uni-balls in the beams. With those in, I put them in the tracker as well as the radius arms. As of now. The uni-ball cup hits the mount it’s attached to when letting the suspension down. I think I’m well past what actually full droop will be but if not, I’ll clearance them and should be good. There is enough meat in there
![71b91c21a749b5fbb1de47a75b447b98.jpg](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fuploads.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F20240528%2F71b91c21a749b5fbb1de47a75b447b98.jpg&hash=a7e03cb0a301d70ff738f04f9d04fada)
![becea0f37973f199e32f8ef610ead5b8.jpg](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fuploads.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F20240528%2Fbecea0f37973f199e32f8ef610ead5b8.jpg&hash=cbc2d20206066531e8a83c029f4b38cb)
![6d32974da07847811f36ffd2eac32182.jpg](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fuploads.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F20240528%2F6d32974da07847811f36ffd2eac32182.jpg&hash=645dd239b77759a90f8229cb5dd82640)
![213ca8862f2bf7d330f6290353a84f72.jpg](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fuploads.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F20240528%2F213ca8862f2bf7d330f6290353a84f72.jpg&hash=a98f848a37f2791db27db8db39deaf39)
![1f94cae17be879d24507865149c3d7ea.jpg](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fuploads.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F20240528%2F1f94cae17be879d24507865149c3d7ea.jpg&hash=1541c0c462f5a6d7c1d5f246ccd8aa0e)
Can’t wait to run it!
Next up, I need to get paint, assemble the rest of the parts like knuckles and spindles for the final time and then I can start on shocks and mounts. Also need this little spring deal for the axles because the stub shaft that’s in the diff is no longer retained by a cir clip.