Rusty Red
- Thread starter SByota
- Start date
DesertGoat
Well-known member
i won't begrudge anyone for making their own bits, but what about the off-the-shelf solution did you not like & were solving with these?
https://www.mcmaster.com/93975A200/
https://www.mcmaster.com/93975A200/
I love McMaster and definitely looked at those and similar ones. I didn’t order them for a few reasons… I’m cheap, I don’t need 25/50 of them, I had the 1” solid stock left over from a previous project, and all the tools needed to create my own.
DesertGoat
Well-known member
seems like a good enough reason to me, hah.
Worked on the seat mounts and cab to cage connections more today. Welding on the Toyota sheet metal is terrible. Hopefully all this work keeps the cab together. It lived a terrible life before I got it and the last trip did some damage.
dwphoto
Administrator
love it!
Motiracer38
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2022
- Messages
- 452
Welding to Toyota sheetmetal is the worst, the paint is almost as thick as the metal! It does help to use thinner wire instead of your standard .030. I bought a 2lb spool of .023 wire when I did all my tie ins and it made much cleaner welds when the power was turned way down.
I probably should have done this. Time has been an issue, like always, because I leave for a trip this Thursday and had to get the truck back together. Seats are in, added cage to cab plates in several places, fixed a ton of cracks in the cab, and sealed up some holes. New seats are minion approved. He has graduated from a back/butt booster to just a butt booster.
Transmission cooler sprung a leak on the 2024 Mammoth Rip. Looks like a part failure with pinhole in the cooler near the intake fitting. It was expertly repaired by @Turboyota with fast setting epoxy and fiberglass mat. The repair lasted the trip and got me home.
Ordered up a new Derale cooler with more than double the cooling, trans would run around 230 when pushed hard, I would like to keep it under 200.
Started mounting the new cooler but ran out of time.
Ordered up a new Derale cooler with more than double the cooling, trans would run around 230 when pushed hard, I would like to keep it under 200.
Started mounting the new cooler but ran out of time.
Got the new cooler installed and old fan remounted.
Dialed in the race radio too after some difficulties on the last trip and lots of interference with the stereo. Added grounds to the radio itself, the antenna to the chassis, a new heavy duty antenna cable and fresh correct length antenna whip. It’s dialed in now between 150-154Hz with no interference.
Dogs were less than impressed as usual.
Dialed in the race radio too after some difficulties on the last trip and lots of interference with the stereo. Added grounds to the radio itself, the antenna to the chassis, a new heavy duty antenna cable and fresh correct length antenna whip. It’s dialed in now between 150-154Hz with no interference.
Dogs were less than impressed as usual.
Did some new seat mounts on the passenger side and added some much needed sound deadening on the floor. Added a mount for a LED whip light for KOH too.Also picked up a 1950’s Clausing Lathe for the garage. I love tools and this thing is rad. Lots to learn though, I’ve never had a lathe with power feeds and threading capabilities.
Dude, it’s awesome having power feeds and accurate dials. Definitely a big learning curve with speeds and feeds.
Motor and trans mounts are “solid” with urethane, motor doesn’t seem to move much if at all.
The bypass noise isn’t terrible before of king plastic check valves and all the rebound tubes have holes drilled in them for added flow.
I’m going to do the doors next and try and put the rear sail panels back on at some point. It’s tolerable now on the freeway, but quieter would be better.
Twisted Sid
New member
Do you have a link handy for those 3 season $8 bumpstops?
URO Parts 1H0412303B Strut Bump... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K8SEP3M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
They work good. Definitely added some bottoming resistance.
