Rusty Red

Truck is back in action, with some fresh dents and still missing a mirror. “New” junkyard modified CV axle installed. Looks like the cage broke and ejected all the balls. Inner star looked pretty good for 70 miles of getting beat to death.

Driving it home with boot blown apart made a huge mess. Nasty CV grease everywhere!! I need to take it to a car wash and hose it down with some degreaser.IMG_1513.jpegIMG_1520.jpegIMG_1521.jpeg
 
IMG_1638.jpegIMG_1736.jpegIMG_1737.jpegNew china mirror installed, grease washed off, installed some stereo stuff I have had for like 2 years now and wired up the fan for the trans cooler. The fan has been installed for over a year and is finally operational. Thermal switch and manual override.
 
dwphoto said:
be a shame if you exploded that nice mirror on a Joshua tree.
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Pretty much a question of when it will happen, not if it will happen.

One day I’ll make some cool tube mirrors, they day is probably very far away though.
 
IMG_1806.jpegIMG_1807.jpegIMG_1808.jpegIMG_1812.jpegIMG_1816.jpegSmall updates/upgrades leading up to KOH.

Make a gas filler mount. The HF zip ties it is replacing have somehow held up for several trips.

Made some mounts for some more plastic amp can storage. I hard mounted some ammo cans near the spare tires during the bed cage build. They work, but are hard to access.

These ones the ammo can can be removed/replaced. It will be help in place by an attached ratchet strap and built tray. Also the tops wouldn’t open in this spot, so I had to figure out a way to make the space useful.

The drivers side window has been acting up for a while now, working replaced. Cleaned the switch out, didn’t help. Pulled the window regulator out and found the spring broken and the OG window motor. Fixed the spring with some TIG welding (couldn’t find a new spring). Put is all back together and had the same issue. Installed a fresh overnight from chyna motor…..window works good again.

Dogs were less than impressed.IMG_1799.jpeg
 
IMG_1866.jpegIMG_1868.jpegAs always, thrashing to get ready for KOH. Mounted jack, jack handle and more ammo can storage. Jack and ammo cans will have ratchet straps to hold them in place. I need to weld the jack handle into one piece, it rattles bad when mounted.
 
IMG_1886.jpegIMG_1918.jpegIMG_8031.jpegIMG_1938.jpegIMG_1955.jpegIMG_1956.jpegIMG_1957.jpegKOH was awesome. Truck did great and only had one issue. Drivers side CV/axle nut came loose. Second time this has happened. I could feel it through the steering wheel. Pulled off the wheel and tightened it back up, maybe 10 degrees.

Red loctite?

A new tool followed me home. ACRA RF31 8x28 mill. I have been shopping for one forever, but they have either been too expensive, I’m cheap, or sold too fast. Picked this up for $600 with a ton of “extras”. I have to go through all of it, I’m sure some of it is junk, but there are a few good pieces in there.

Broke is down to make it manageable to move into my garage by myself. I need to clean/degrease and lube it up.
 
smokeysevin said:
Do your axles not have the groove in the end to stake the nut?

Sean
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Nope, just these sheet metal cages and a cotter pin. There aren’t strong enough to stop the nut from backing off.

Double nut? Some type of locking nut? It’s an m28x1.5

IMG_2010.jpeg
 
SByota said:
Nope, just these sheet metal cages and a cotter pin. There aren’t strong enough to stop the nut from backing off.

Double nut? Some type of locking nut?
Click to expand...

Are they oe yota outer cvs? I assumed they were like the driveshaft nuts, pinion bearing nut, or 2wd hub nuts and had the thin section you bend over. For some reason I thought you had oe tundra cvs and hubs.

What hubs are those?

Are you sure you arent missing the nut under that? I think those may just be locking caps for standard nuts and not supposed to retain any load.

Sean
 
smokeysevin said:
Are they oe yota outer cvs? I assumed they were like the driveshaft nuts, pinion bearing nut, or 2wd hub nuts and had the thin section you bend over. For some reason I thought you had oe tundra cvs and hubs.

What hubs are those?

Are you sure you arent missing the nut under that? I think those may just be locking caps for standard nuts and not supposed to retain any load.

Sean
Click to expand...
OE Tundra shafts, OE nuts and “cages”. The hubs are aftermarket, but exact same design as the OE stuff. The outer CV stub shaft is fully threaded and has a hole for the cotter pin. No keyway or any other type of retention.
 
SByota said:
OE Tundra shafts, OE nuts and “cages”. The hubs are aftermarket, but exact same design as the OE stuff. The outer CV stub shaft is fully threaded and has a hole for the cotter pin. No keyway or any other type of retention.
Click to expand...
Ah got it, the nut is there under the locking tab cover thing and it is still backing off and bending the ears. Its been a week.

Where do you think the load to loosen it is coming from? If the nut is tight, it shouldn't back off, the hub doesnt spin independent of the splines/shaft like a manual locking hub. These are basically like drive flanges right?

Does it torque up normally when you tighten the nut up?

Sean
 
smokeysevin said:
Ah got it, the nut is there under the locking tab cover thing and it is still backing off and bending the ears. Its been a week.

Where do you think the load to loosen it is coming from? If the nut is tight, it shouldn't back off, the hub doesnt spin independent of the splines/shaft like a manual locking hub. These are basically like drive flanges right?

Does it torque up normally when you tighten the nut up?

Sean
Click to expand...
No idea where the force is coming from. It’s a completely stock set up, the only thing that I changed is locking the ADD in the “engaged” position. I don’t want to deal with the vacuum switch when I converted from 2WD.

Yes the hubs are basically drive flanges, with open front diff. Torque’s normally with all new Toyota nuts, Koyo bearings and appropriate Toyota spacers/seals etc.

Got a new cooler to mount behind the cab for the upcoming trip. Planning on a simple angle iron tray and using the rope handles to hold it down. I want to be able to removed it easily, but have access to the lid without removing anything.

How’s everyone else mounting them?


IMG_2207.jpeg
 
Mine has tie down slits above the handles that you can see when you open the lid that fits a 1in strap through. So nice to be able to open without unstrapping. Maybe get crafty with some rope through the hinges and the lock plate in the front?
 
+1 i just use the RTIC straps through the loops near the handle ropes.
They're cheap & on amazon.
amazon link
61XzC86-saL._AC_SL1000_.jpg
 
IMG_2316.jpegIMG_2317.jpegIMG_2318.jpegMounted on the ice chest. Made the tray removable so I can access the fuel pump with cutting anything. It took WAY longer making it removable.
 
IMG_2873.jpegIMG_2874.jpegIMG_2875.jpegFinally started mounting the new seats. The cab is in rough shape from lots of time with seats mounted to just the body. New mounts will tie into the cage and unify everything.

Got a new m12 “high speed” ratchet. I’m a big Milwaukee fanboy, and it continues with this one.
 
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