Local Legend Project: Tur-BRO-yota
- Thread starter Turboyota
- Start date
Turboyota
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July 12, 2020
Hesperia/Apple Valley/Deep Creek to Angelus Oaks Via Dirt
Maiden voyage for the BROmanians Fraptor. (We installed a full raptor suspension under Ervin’s F150 a few months ago.) He got the front fiberglass installed recently and we were both ready for some dirt therapy.
Beers:
Me: 2
Ervin: 2
Total Miles: 145
Dirt Miles: 69
Temp at 8500ft: absolutely perfect
Temp in Yucaipa: 96F
Problems: my idle adjuster screw fell at before we even hit the dirt. The truck would not stay running, so I wrapped a 3/8-16 bolt with electrical tape and forced it into it’s new home in the throttle body. Fixed!!!
Lost a caliper bolt somewhere on Clark’s grade... fixed that when I got home.
Took Pack Memorial Trail East from deep creek. Great view of Hesperia and Apple Valley.
Hesperia/Apple Valley/Deep Creek to Angelus Oaks Via Dirt
Maiden voyage for @ervin00 ‘s Fraptor. (We installed a full raptor suspension under Ervin’s F150 a few months ago.) He got the front fiberglass installed recently and we were both ready for some dirt therapy.
Beers:
Me: 2
Ervin: 2
Total Miles: 145
Dirt Miles: 69
Temp at 8500ft: absolutely perfect
Temp in Yucaipa: 96F
Problems: my idle adjuster screw fell at before we even hit the dirt. The truck would not stay running, so I wrapped a 3/8-16 bolt with electrical tape and forced it into it’s new home in the throttle body. Fixed!!!
Lost a caliper bolt somewhere on Clark’s grade... fixed that when I got home.
Took Pack Memorial Trail East from deep creek. Great view of Hesperia and Apple Valley.
This intersection leads to the most challenging section of trail. There is a winding rocky uphill section that was Uber-fun!
Had to stop and wait for the mustachioed firefighters for a while. The was on Coxey Rd between Big Pine Flat Family Campground and Hanna Flat Campground. We passed another 3 CALFIRE trucks on the way toward Fawnskin/BigBear Lake.
Hit dirt again south of Big Bear Lake on 2N08–>Skyline Dr—>Clarks Grade—>Seven Oaks rd—>1N09—Hwy38. There are more roads from Angelus Oaks that drop down into Mentone and Highland, but we both needed to get home.
Headed down Clark’s Grade into Angelus Oaks. It’s listed difficulty is “Moderate”. Fairly tame by my (low) standards. There were some OC overland prepsters spotting each other over some minuscule rocks... that held us up for a bit...
This intersection leads to the most challenging section of trail. There is a winding rocky uphill section that was Uber-
Hit dirt again south of Big Bear Lake on 2N08–>Skyline Dr—>Clarks Grade—>Seven Oaks rd—>1N09—Hwy38. There are more roads from Angelus Oaks that drop down into Mentone and Highland, but we both needed to get home.
Headed down Clark’s Grade into Angelus Oaks. It’s listed difficulty is “Moderate”. Fairly tame by my standards. There were some OC overland prepsters spotting each other over some minuscule rocks... that held us up for a bit...
Reposting the pics inside the body of the text is being a bitch, so here’s a photo dump:
Hesperia/Apple Valley/Deep Creek to Angelus Oaks Via Dirt
Maiden voyage for the BROmanians Fraptor. (We installed a full raptor suspension under Ervin’s F150 a few months ago.) He got the front fiberglass installed recently and we were both ready for some dirt therapy.
Beers:
Me: 2
Ervin: 2
Total Miles: 145
Dirt Miles: 69
Temp at 8500ft: absolutely perfect
Temp in Yucaipa: 96F
Problems: my idle adjuster screw fell at before we even hit the dirt. The truck would not stay running, so I wrapped a 3/8-16 bolt with electrical tape and forced it into it’s new home in the throttle body. Fixed!!!
Lost a caliper bolt somewhere on Clark’s grade... fixed that when I got home.
Took Pack Memorial Trail East from deep creek. Great view of Hesperia and Apple Valley.
Hesperia/Apple Valley/Deep Creek to Angelus Oaks Via Dirt
Maiden voyage for @ervin00 ‘s Fraptor. (We installed a full raptor suspension under Ervin’s F150 a few months ago.) He got the front fiberglass installed recently and we were both ready for some dirt therapy.
Beers:
Me: 2
Ervin: 2
Total Miles: 145
Dirt Miles: 69
Temp at 8500ft: absolutely perfect
Temp in Yucaipa: 96F
Problems: my idle adjuster screw fell at before we even hit the dirt. The truck would not stay running, so I wrapped a 3/8-16 bolt with electrical tape and forced it into it’s new home in the throttle body. Fixed!!!
Lost a caliper bolt somewhere on Clark’s grade... fixed that when I got home.
Took Pack Memorial Trail East from deep creek. Great view of Hesperia and Apple Valley.
This intersection leads to the most challenging section of trail. There is a winding rocky uphill section that was Uber-fun!
Had to stop and wait for the mustachioed firefighters for a while. The was on Coxey Rd between Big Pine Flat Family Campground and Hanna Flat Campground. We passed another 3 CALFIRE trucks on the way toward Fawnskin/BigBear Lake.
Hit dirt again south of Big Bear Lake on 2N08–>Skyline Dr—>Clarks Grade—>Seven Oaks rd—>1N09—Hwy38. There are more roads from Angelus Oaks that drop down into Mentone and Highland, but we both needed to get home.
Headed down Clark’s Grade into Angelus Oaks. It’s listed difficulty is “Moderate”. Fairly tame by my (low) standards. There were some OC overland prepsters spotting each other over some minuscule rocks... that held us up for a bit...
This intersection leads to the most challenging section of trail. There is a winding rocky uphill section that was Uber-
Hit dirt again south of Big Bear Lake on 2N08–>Skyline Dr—>Clarks Grade—>Seven Oaks rd—>1N09—Hwy38. There are more roads from Angelus Oaks that drop down into Mentone and Highland, but we both needed to get home.
Headed down Clark’s Grade into Angelus Oaks. It’s listed difficulty is “Moderate”. Fairly tame by my standards. There were some OC overland prepsters spotting each other over some minuscule rocks... that held us up for a bit...
Reposting the pics inside the body of the text is being a bitch, so here’s a photo dump:
Turboyota
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July 25, 2020
Redid the consumable bumper
Materials: 1.75x0.090” welded seam and some 1.75x0.120” 4130 on the passenger side.
Time: 3 hours~ish
Drinks: Cucumber lime Gatorade(the best flavor)
Attire: shorts, tank top, and flip flops
Tools: 4.5” grinder, bandsaw, JMR notcher, and AmeriBrade grinder.
Gaps: perfect fitment on passenger side, shitty fitment on driver’s side with 1/8” gappage. Fuckit, I migger welded that shit up.
Redid the consumable bumper
Materials: 1.75x0.090” welded seam and some 1.75x0.120” 4130 on the passenger side.
Time: 3 hours~ish
Drinks: Cucumber lime Gatorade(the best flavor)
Attire: shorts, tank top, and flip flops
Tools: 4.5” grinder, bandsaw, JMR notcher, and AmeriBrade grinder.
Gaps: perfect fitment on passenger side, shitty fitment on driver’s side with 1/8” gappage. Fuckit, I migger welded that shit up.
Turboyota
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July 26, 2020
Hitting the mountains and Mentone trails a couple weekends in a row
Stream crossings: 8
Beers: 12
Dirt Miles 66.6
Temp: 91F
Temp previous weekend: cooler
Last weekend: yucaipa—Angelus oaks—Keller Bluffs—Highland
Today: Yucaipa & Mentone dirt therapy
Hitting the mountains and Mentone trails a couple weekends in a row
Stream crossings: 8
Beers: 12
Dirt Miles 66.6
Temp: 91F
Temp previous weekend: cooler
Last weekend: yucaipa—Angelus oaks—Keller Bluffs—Highland
Today: Yucaipa & Mentone dirt therapy
Turboyota
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- Apr 1, 2022
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Front end specs
Kingpin inclination: 14 degrees
Caster: 8 degrees
Scrub radius: 0.70”
Anti-squat: almost none
Camber at full droop: -4.5 degrees
Camber at ride height: -1.5 degrees
Steering wheel turns lock-to-lock: 2.75
Ackerman: pretty decent
Steering effort has increased. In a corner, if I have to input more steer, it’s definitely an arm workout. Still getting used to it.
Braking is phenomenal. 12.19” rotors, Wilwood 4 piston calipers, and EBC yellowstuff pads work badass. Braking effort is greatly reduced compared to stock. I can lock all 4 wheels very easily on pavement.
partybarge_pilot asked if I could feel the tire sidewalls deflecting. I have been running 16psi front and 12psi rear in the BFG 35x10.5R15 class 10 tires. So far I have been able to mark pavement off about halfway up the sidewalk whilst driving like an asshole around town. Took HWY 38 from Angelus Oaks to Yucaipa, and it handled predictably and crisply on the curvy mountain road. No complaints.
The tires provide good traction. Gonna try 14psi front and 10psi rear on my next outing.
Front King IBPs: In @Horunner ‘s last video, the compression clickers were still 10 clicks open, so I will hit the same jump again with them only open 2 clicks.
Also took out 3/8” preload.
———————————————-
Tuning up the idler arm.
There is a little slop that develops because I don’t have a crush sleeve.
Old 5/8” shoulder bolt idler arm pivot setup that is very touchy to bolt torque: too much torque and it doesn’t move freely, too little torque and there is play on the passenger side wheel.
New setup reduces bolt to 1/2”, but has a crush sleeve and some custom weld washers. Gonna use baller panty-dropping MS21250 bolts.
Parting off one of the step bushings:
It was 102F in my shop today, so naturally, I started drinking at 9AM. My 70’s box fan died, so I spiked that motherfucker and brought in Big Hoss.
Kingpin inclination: 14 degrees
Caster: 8 degrees
Scrub radius: 0.70”
Anti-squat: almost none
Camber at full droop: -4.5 degrees
Camber at ride height: -1.5 degrees
Steering wheel turns lock-to-lock: 2.75
Ackerman: pretty decent
Steering effort has increased. In a corner, if I have to input more steer, it’s definitely an arm workout. Still getting used to it.
Braking is phenomenal. 12.19” rotors, Wilwood 4 piston calipers, and EBC yellowstuff pads work badass. Braking effort is greatly reduced compared to stock. I can lock all 4 wheels very easily on pavement.
partybarge_pilot asked if I could feel the tire sidewalls deflecting. I have been running 16psi front and 12psi rear in the BFG 35x10.5R15 class 10 tires. So far I have been able to mark pavement off about halfway up the sidewalk whilst driving like an asshole around town. Took HWY 38 from Angelus Oaks to Yucaipa, and it handled predictably and crisply on the curvy mountain road. No complaints.
The tires provide good traction. Gonna try 14psi front and 10psi rear on my next outing.
Front King IBPs: In @Horunner ‘s last video, the compression clickers were still 10 clicks open, so I will hit the same jump again with them only open 2 clicks.
Also took out 3/8” preload.
———————————————-
Tuning up the idler arm.
There is a little slop that develops because I don’t have a crush sleeve.
Old 5/8” shoulder bolt idler arm pivot setup that is very touchy to bolt torque: too much torque and it doesn’t move freely, too little torque and there is play on the passenger side wheel.
New setup reduces bolt to 1/2”, but has a crush sleeve and some custom weld washers. Gonna use baller panty-dropping MS21250 bolts.
Parting off one of the step bushings:
It was 102F in my shop today, so naturally, I started drinking at 9AM. My 70’s box fan died, so I spiked that motherfucker and brought in Big Hoss.
Turboyota
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August 2020
Finished idler arm tuneup
Time: 4 hours
Beers: lots—it was fucking hot
Materials: overlays are 1/8” 4130, sleeve is 5/8” OD 4130 tube, reducer bushings are mystery steel and 17-4 stainless.
Hardware: 1/2” bolts on the idler arm are NAS and MS21250 baller bolts. Drilled out the idler arm frame attachment holes for 7/16” grade 8 hardware to replace stock 10mm bolts.
Boring the step-down bushings to 0.499- to match the badass bolts. I used gauge pins to verify bore size. Knowledge nugget: aerospace hardware is MUCH closer to nominal thicknesses than Grade 8 stuff. A 1/2” GR8 bolt would mic out to 0.493-0.494” typically, for instance. NAS and MS hardware is 0.498-0.4995”.
NAS/AN bolt on left, MS21250 chronic bolt on the right.
Welded the mystery steel and 17-4 step bushings using 309L filler rod, FUPA 12 cup, and 30CFM gas flow
Made some gussets from 1/8” 4130 to beef up the centerlink end of the idler arm:
After all that work in the 102F shop I was significantly inebriated, so I thought it was a good idea to paint the idler arm and frame bracket gold.
Installed:
I kinda like it. Brings me back to the 80’s and 90’s when all kinds of shit on race trucks was CAD plated.
Finished idler arm tuneup
Time: 4 hours
Beers: lots—it was fucking hot
Materials: overlays are 1/8” 4130, sleeve is 5/8” OD 4130 tube, reducer bushings are mystery steel and 17-4 stainless.
Hardware: 1/2” bolts on the idler arm are NAS and MS21250 baller bolts. Drilled out the idler arm frame attachment holes for 7/16” grade 8 hardware to replace stock 10mm bolts.
Boring the step-down bushings to 0.499- to match the badass bolts. I used gauge pins to verify bore size. Knowledge nugget: aerospace hardware is MUCH closer to nominal thicknesses than Grade 8 stuff. A 1/2” GR8 bolt would mic out to 0.493-0.494” typically, for instance. NAS and MS hardware is 0.498-0.4995”.
NAS/AN bolt on left, MS21250 chronic bolt on the right.
Welded the mystery steel and 17-4 step bushings using 309L filler rod, FUPA 12 cup, and 30CFM gas flow
Made some gussets from 1/8” 4130 to beef up the centerlink end of the idler arm:
After all that work in the 102F shop I was significantly inebriated, so I thought it was a good idea to paint the idler arm and frame bracket gold.
Installed:
I kinda like it. Brings me back to the 80’s and 90’s when all kinds of shit on race trucks was CAD plated.
Turboyota
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September 2020
Lots of prep work lately for the long trips I had planned for fall & winter 2020
Made a urethane trans mount.
Time: 3 hours
Materials: energy suspension bushings, 1.5x0.120” 4130, 3/4x0.120” DOM for the sleeve, stock trans mount cut up, and some 1/8” 4130 plate.
Cost: $3 tabs, $3 in bushings
Edit 2023: DO NOT BUY THIS FILTER OR PREFILTER. Silt goes right thru them.
—————————————————
Bought an AEM dry filter and the prefilter that goes over it. I’ll carry my old K&N as a backup.
Cost: $46 filter, $37 prefilter
Filter Part #: 20-2127D-HK
Prefilter: 1-4007
Resealed the input side of the steering box.
Cost: $10
Lip seal for input shaft: 17x32x7 lip seal in the cap and 033 o-ring on the ID of the box.
Turns out there are 3 different Toyoda steering boxes. 1/2 ton, 1 ton, and 4X4.
Sector Shaft size are the same on 1-ton and 4X4, but fluid fitting sizes differ between all models. I have the 1/2 ton gear box. I have a 1-ton box sitting on the shelf, but I have to get lines made and fab a new pitman arm in order to install that badboy. Maybe next year...
Mounted up my military surplus spares trunk. Greased the shackles bushings while I was at it.
Time: 5 hours
Beers: 6 natty ICE. Not a great beer, but it gets the fucking job done.
Materials: 2x2x1/8” angle iron, 1/8” 4130 plate, and some 2x0.120” 4130 tube remnants.
Tilt-up roof top tent rack.
Time: 6 hours
Beers: 10~ish natty ice. I fucking lost count...
Materials: 1.5x.090” square tube, 1.75x0.0120” tube, 2” tube, 3/16” plate, 1.0x0.250” 4130 for bungs.
2X shitty 5/8” heims
2X Carr Lane toggle clamps
4X custom radius tabs
Cost: $700 tent (thanks Tommy!)
Toggle clamps: $64
Heims: $40
And I machined a little groove into the saddle in case I want the extra security of a hose clamp if my 2000lb rated toggle clamps fail.
Boom! Prelander, bitches!
Lots of prep work lately for the long trips I had planned for fall & winter 2020
Made a urethane trans mount.
Time: 3 hours
Materials: energy suspension bushings, 1.5x0.120” 4130, 3/4x0.120” DOM for the sleeve, stock trans mount cut up, and some 1/8” 4130 plate.
Cost: $3 tabs, $3 in bushings
Edit 2023: DO NOT BUY THIS FILTER OR PREFILTER. Silt goes right thru them.
—————————————————
Bought an AEM dry filter and the prefilter that goes over it. I’ll carry my old K&N as a backup.
Cost: $46 filter, $37 prefilter
Filter Part #: 20-2127D-HK
Prefilter: 1-4007
Resealed the input side of the steering box.
Cost: $10
Lip seal for input shaft: 17x32x7 lip seal in the cap and 033 o-ring on the ID of the box.
Turns out there are 3 different Toyoda steering boxes. 1/2 ton, 1 ton, and 4X4.
Sector Shaft size are the same on 1-ton and 4X4, but fluid fitting sizes differ between all models. I have the 1/2 ton gear box. I have a 1-ton box sitting on the shelf, but I have to get lines made and fab a new pitman arm in order to install that badboy. Maybe next year...
Mounted up my military surplus spares trunk. Greased the shackles bushings while I was at it.
Time: 5 hours
Beers: 6 natty ICE. Not a great beer, but it gets the fucking job done.
Materials: 2x2x1/8” angle iron, 1/8” 4130 plate, and some 2x0.120” 4130 tube remnants.
Tilt-up roof top tent rack.
Time: 6 hours
Beers: 10~ish natty ice. I fucking lost count...
Materials: 1.5x.090” square tube, 1.75x0.0120” tube, 2” tube, 3/16” plate, 1.0x0.250” 4130 for bungs.
2X shitty 5/8” heims
2X Carr Lane toggle clamps
4X custom radius tabs
Cost: $700 tent (thanks Tommy!)
Toggle clamps: $64
Heims: $40
And I machined a little groove into the saddle in case I want the extra security of a hose clamp if my 2000lb rated toggle clamps fail.
Boom! Prelander, bitches!
Turboyota
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September 9, 2020
Dash closeout intercom and radio mount.
Hours: 4
Beers: 7
Fucks yelled: 2; once when I slammed my shin on the 2-post lift arms, and once when I cut into my Wilton bullet vise with the grinder like a fucking idiot.
Materials: 0.050” steel, 8-32 SHCS
Tools: bandsaw, drill press, 4.5” grinder, finger break, tig welder with 0.040” ER70S-2 and 1/16” silicon bronze filler
CAD:
Template and resultant metal flat pattern. My practice bend is at the bottom to make sure I knew where the folded sides would end up with the radius I set on the brake.
Feeling the flow. Workin’ it.
Test fit went well. I bent the large radius in the middle over a 2” tube clamped in the vise. I left the bottom a little long so after I bent the large radius I could nail the finished length.
Welded the corners and large radius filler crescent pieces. Outsides of the large bends are steel filler, insides silicon bronze. Corners are silicon bronze.
Gave it an angle grinder and DA tuneup in the weld areas:
Drilled #29 and tapped 8-32 all the bracket mounting holes, then cut out the radio/intercom hole.
Almost done. Need to borrow a rivnut tool so I can mount the plate to the existing dash structure. Might add some switches and another charging plug if I feel frisky.
Annnnnnnnd I might even paint it shit brown.
Dash closeout intercom and radio mount.
Hours: 4
Beers: 7
Fucks yelled: 2; once when I slammed my shin on the 2-post lift arms, and once when I cut into my Wilton bullet vise with the grinder like a fucking idiot.
Materials: 0.050” steel, 8-32 SHCS
Tools: bandsaw, drill press, 4.5” grinder, finger break, tig welder with 0.040” ER70S-2 and 1/16” silicon bronze filler
CAD:
Template and resultant metal flat pattern. My practice bend is at the bottom to make sure I knew where the folded sides would end up with the radius I set on the brake.
Feeling the flow. Workin’ it.
Test fit went well. I bent the large radius in the middle over a 2” tube clamped in the vise. I left the bottom a little long so after I bent the large radius I could nail the finished length.
Welded the corners and large radius filler crescent pieces. Outsides of the large bends are steel filler, insides silicon bronze. Corners are silicon bronze.
Gave it an angle grinder and DA tuneup in the weld areas:
Drilled #29 and tapped 8-32 all the bracket mounting holes, then cut out the radio/intercom hole.
Almost done. Need to borrow a rivnut tool so I can mount the plate to the existing dash structure. Might add some switches and another charging plug if I feel frisky.
Annnnnnnnd I might even paint it shit brown.
Turboyota
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October 13, 2020
Lots of shit done lately in preparation for a bunch of fall/winter/spring trips.
Rock lights
Tigger-rigged the LED tabs
And a trunk light:
^^^Added gas struts to the tent rack
New 4.70 diff got the Lincoln locker treatment. Previous diff had 3.90 gears.
Mounted Jack, fluids holder, and ammocan storage:
Chinee HIDs
Lots of shit done lately in preparation for a bunch of fall/winter/spring trips.
Rock lights
Tigger-rigged the LED tabs
And a trunk light:
^^^Added gas struts to the tent rack
New 4.70 diff got the Lincoln locker treatment. Previous diff had 3.90 gears.
Mounted Jack, fluids holder, and ammocan storage:
Chinee HIDs
Turboyota
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More October 2020 prep
New Radiator hoses
GG lighting rear amber
Y-strap on spare tire
Chinee switchpros, accessory charging ports, and cig lighter added to dash insert. And nipply hula girly. I’m liking the MOB Armor mount.
Legit SFI foam padding on cage
Spare fuel filter, fuel pump, carrier bearing, u-joint, air filter, and belts stowed in ammo cans.
Spare brake lines strapped to harness bar. Thanks @dwphoto for the idea! It’s cheap insurance—these lines are $2-$3 each at my local Parts Authority.
Fluids changed at 273076
Mobil1 10W40 high mileage engine oil
80W90 gear oil in transmission
Lucas synthetic 85W140 in diff
Added anti-vibration peel-n-seal and neoprene strips to skid plates
Compressed rear bumps, filled with oil, then removed 10cc’s. Added 55psi nitrogen pressure—but it needs to be a little higher—probably gonna bump it up to 69psi. Going to raise the pressure in the front bumps from 100psi to 120psi.
Did 26 miles of testing:
And played in the “Family Fort” with my 2yr old daughter yesterday. She was almost as excited as I was.
New Radiator hoses
GG lighting rear amber
Y-strap on spare tire
Chinee switchpros, accessory charging ports, and cig lighter added to dash insert. And nipply hula girly. I’m liking the MOB Armor mount.
Legit SFI foam padding on cage
Spare fuel filter, fuel pump, carrier bearing, u-joint, air filter, and belts stowed in ammo cans.
Spare brake lines strapped to harness bar. Thanks @dwphoto for the idea! It’s cheap insurance—these lines are $2-$3 each at my local Parts Authority.
Fluids changed at 273076
Mobil1 10W40 high mileage engine oil
80W90 gear oil in transmission
Lucas synthetic 85W140 in diff
Added anti-vibration peel-n-seal and neoprene strips to skid plates
Compressed rear bumps, filled with oil, then removed 10cc’s. Added 55psi nitrogen pressure—but it needs to be a little higher—probably gonna bump it up to 69psi. Going to raise the pressure in the front bumps from 100psi to 120psi.
Did 26 miles of testing:
And played in the “Family Fort” with my 2yr old daughter yesterday. She was almost as excited as I was.
Turboyota
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Turboyota
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Nov 4, 2020
Pinion seal shit the bed on the last little dirt jaunt and started flinging Lucas 85W140 everywhere. Nooooo biiiig deal, seal is $20.
When I pulled the flange and seal, the was a chunk of weld up by the pinion bearings.
RUH ROH!!!
So I pulled the 3rd member and every single weld that I applied for my Lincoln Locker was broken.
Pinion seal shit the bed on the last little dirt jaunt and started flinging Lucas 85W140 everywhere. Nooooo biiiig deal, seal is $20.
When I pulled the flange and seal, the was a chunk of weld up by the pinion bearings.
RUH ROH!!!
So I pulled the 3rd member and every single weld that I applied for my Lincoln Locker was broken.
Turboyota
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December 2020
Did Lucerne to Caruthers Canyon to Primm to Afton Canyon with @Motiracer38 @GahnRacing and @Kellyex1450
380 spectacular dirt miles this last weekend!
The truck performed flawlessly. Shock valving is fucking dialed, new motor top end kicks ass, rooftop tent is comfy, convenient and warm, and I even got 11mpg on one of the straighter, power line road~ish sections.
Did Lucerne to Caruthers Canyon to Primm to Afton Canyon with @Motiracer38 @GahnRacing and @Kellyex1450
380 spectacular dirt miles this last weekend!
The truck performed flawlessly. Shock valving is fucking dialed, new motor top end kicks ass, rooftop tent is comfy, convenient and warm, and I even got 11mpg on one of the straighter, power line road~ish sections.
Turboyota
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March 6, 2021
Hit the swapmeet at lasertown and picked up some brand new swayaway coilovers for $300 and some 4” tender springs for $20.
Then cruised to the mini dunes
Then took Rattlesnake Canyon to Pioneertown
Dirt miles: 50+
Beers: 10
Hit the swapmeet at lasertown and picked up some brand new swayaway coilovers for $300 and some 4” tender springs for $20.
Then cruised to the mini dunes
Then took Rattlesnake Canyon to Pioneertown
Dirt miles: 50+
Beers: 10
Turboyota
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Post MeatFest, April 2021
Damn.
Prep is important. I put the hurt on the driver’s side at the Meat Fest.
Back side ground out.
Yes!
Passenger side was unscathed:
I pack led the bearings with grease and put that bitch back together.
New tierod to replace the one that got meatfested.
New inner 3/4LH FK Heim, almost new 7/8RH FK heim on the outer. 1.5x0.120” 4130 with 1.25x0.120” 4130 on the inner portion. 12 total rosette welds. Kartek doesn’t sell hex bungs, so I’m going to end up grabbing this tierod with a pipe wrench like a fucking Neanderthal.
Damn.
Prep is important. I put the hurt on the driver’s side at the Meat Fest.
Back side ground out.
Yes!
Passenger side was unscathed:
I pack led the bearings with grease and put that bitch back together.
New tierod to replace the one that got meatfested.
New inner 3/4LH FK Heim, almost new 7/8RH FK heim on the outer. 1.5x0.120” 4130 with 1.25x0.120” 4130 on the inner portion. 12 total rosette welds. Kartek doesn’t sell hex bungs, so I’m going to end up grabbing this tierod with a pipe wrench like a fucking Neanderthal.
Turboyota
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- 723
May 2, 2021
Adjustable limit strap setup on passenger side. Sent it with the dirty migger.
May 11, 2021
Found some cracks in the lower a-arm pivot/engine crossmember.
Inside of the frame is plated with 3/16”, and it was cracking at the junction of the rear of the engine mount/lower arms cross member.
Ground out the cracks with a carbide burr, cleaned the area, welded up the cracks, and added a gusset.
Beers: 4
Materials: 1/8 HR and 1/8” P&O
Crack:
Crack welded, than stress raiser area bridged with a gusset plate. Passenger side:
Driver side
Adjustable limit strap setup on passenger side. Sent it with the dirty migger.
May 11, 2021
Found some cracks in the lower a-arm pivot/engine crossmember.
Inside of the frame is plated with 3/16”, and it was cracking at the junction of the rear of the engine mount/lower arms cross member.
Ground out the cracks with a carbide burr, cleaned the area, welded up the cracks, and added a gusset.
Beers: 4
Materials: 1/8 HR and 1/8” P&O
Crack:
Crack welded, than stress raiser area bridged with a gusset plate. Passenger side:
Driver side
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