Local Legend Project: Tur-BRO-yota

January 7, 2022 layout planning and shittalking

Forward of axle:
1. Storage for camping/cooking gear
2. Dedicated firewood storage boxes or rack
3. Chairs
4. Icechest or ARB(or knockoff)fridge
5. Shovels
6. Faggoty Traction boards
7. Spare fluids

Behind axle:
1. 32 gal jeepspeed cell
2. 2X 37x10.5 Tensor spares
3. 2X batteries
4. Spares in dedicated storage
a. Starter
b. Driveline
c. Alternator
d. Hoses & lines
e. Tierod & heims
f. Coil
5. Tools(currently strapped between passengers feet)
6. Winch with golf cart plugs & receiver for front if req’d
7. Jack
8. Fuckin’ roof top tent perched atop tires

Behind/between seats:
1. Slim icechest(same as current)
2. Jumper cables
3. Superstrap(ON)
4. Snacks
5. XD45
6. Sleeping bags & blankets
7. Spare air filter
8. Spare cap, wires & rotor
 
January 7, 2022

Time to start cutting more than a little sheet metal.

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Might be able to move the axle-side lower pivots outboard a little more, but that’s for cycling week.
 
January 9, 2022

Laye night & early morning action. Cut lots of stuff off.

Time: 6 hours
Music: metal mix
Drinks: black tea; hot with lemon

The girthy 3.0 coilover springs contacted this tube when fully extended and flexed the opposite way. So I cut those sexy 1.5x0.058” 4130 tubes out. Sigh.
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Full bump
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I started with the lower link pivots 3.5” off the rotor(arbitrary number that looked somewhat close). Cut those fuckers off and moved them outboard so they are now 2” off the rotor. The additional spread at the axle side should help reduce roll steer and the tire still clears the bypass at full flex. Moving those lower link brackets outward necessitated rework of the lower link front bushing assembly. Cut the tacks and increased the angle and re-tacked that shit also. No pics of that.
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Got a second Tensor 37x10.5R15 mounted at the mexi tire shop yesterday afternoon. This is pretty close to full droop.
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Formed Upper link plate contacts the lower link pivot before full bump. Gay.
My shave scheme for the lower links can be seen in red sharpie. I’m gaining almost 3/4” of ground clearance and still retain plenty of meat around the bolt.
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Shave scheme scribed:
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Link clearance:
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Much better.
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Tuning second lower link pivot. Scribe. Bandsaw. Ameribrade. Repeat.
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Machined a 3.030” fixture spacer for welding and burned ‘em in nice and hot.
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Bitchin’ post from ooracing aka Dialed Shock Prep:

I guess I’ll go against the grain and say FUCK YES for the rear cell. People don’t understand the benefits of a rear cell until they actually do it. My biggest hurdle with alot of my customers is convincing them to put the cell in the back and the storage up front. “But I’m going to put a cooler, and spare parts, and tools, and blah blah blah in the back so it’s easy to get to..” well what the hell A-A-Ron, how often do you plan on accessing your spare oil quarts, a 9/16” wrench, and your spare alternator that you can’t spend the extra 10 seconds it takes to climb up the bedcage and grab your stuff from behind the cab?”
The performance advantages are huge with a rear cell, and probably 90% of the guys who stick with the mid cell “because I’ll have a big storage truck full of tool and stuff” end up driving around with nothing but one tire hanging off the back. MAYBE a battery or two back there. They’d be better off slapping 200-300lbs of weights back there than driving around empty.


This thing is going to jam and be super smooth. You have maximum up travel, good rear weight bias, you’ll be stoked man. Looking forward to seeing this thing driving again

ODRMSE Roy said all the same shit.
 
January 12, 2022

Hours worked since previous update: 5 hours
Fucks yelled: dozens
Tools spiked: 1 tape measure
Music: Bad Religion
Drinks: 2X black teas

Trimmed reliefs in the frame-side upper link mounts to increase the spread by 1.25 inches. See @GahnRacing, I have to trim some things like a peasant. There aren’t any square angles on the ruffmuff link mounts, which makes positioning them equally side-to-side somewhat challenging. More on that later…
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Relieved & Metal glued. Wet rag to keep heim from melting. 0.010” shock shim between bracket & low misaligns to increase bracket spread. 0.020” would be better…
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More plebeian~esque trimming. I did scribe the cut line with a height gage on my granite surface plate though, so there’s that…
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After the 3rd iteration of cutting tacks off and repositioning:
Fuck. The other side took me 6 tries. FUCK! SIX fucking tries—thus the spiked tape measure. Pivots are located +/- 0.030” now. I’m happy with that.
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AccidentSon found the crime scene yesterday while I was at work and texted this:
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I went to bed after I finished off the tape measure with a sawed-off sledge.

The next day, I bolted the rearend back up & got it plumb. There is a plumb line hanging off the rear tube work, not sure if it’s visible in the pics
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Full bump:
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Droop. 24” total travel at this setup. Might be able to get another inch of travel if I tilt the shocks toward the cab more, not sure it’s worth it.
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Lower link pivots look waaaaaay better trimmed up.
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Probably gonna go with the “california” shock mounts.
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Excellent post from @FasterNU on January 11, 2022

i go on one vacation and turdblos truck is completely different...

progress looks great. AA-Ron has used his tools, jack, and shovel quite a bit actually. Usually at camp for someone else's shit!! LOL. Winch on brothers has seen some use.

But, my tools are in cab on 2ghetto... and you can mount jack and shovel next to cell. And a clever person, unlike me, will make any winch portable for front and rear use.

I am always interested in this debate for a pre-runner. If you have a ton of heavy stuff, you can get somewhat close to rear cell with static weight. But, you have to carry all that extra weight too. So , if you are a "mr racing car driver" like an Asian once said to me... I'd do rear cell for sure. Otherwise, kind of depends how often you get in your tools and storage shit.

I would think weight in center is better for cornering like barge mentioned.... weight in back is good for straight line in the rough... and probably traction benefits with a powerful motor (I don't think that is much issue for me.)

jumping?
man... i would think more centered weight is better. 2Ghetto doesn't seem to nose dive anymore with new suspension toon. It only has a single spare, batteries and jack in the back.
 
January 13, 2023

CAD

Time: 3.5 hours
Music: Goldfinger, NOFX, Guttermouth, The Descendents
Tools: scissors, sharpie, ramboard, frog tape
Drinks: more black tea like a fucking limey

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January 13, 2022

Fuck yeah broskis! Found some 3/16” 4130 behind one of my mismatched unorganized tool boxes!

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Here’s the 0.090” 4130 for most the other plates
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Digitize and CNC cut? Get fucked. I had that shit cut out in two shakes of a lambs tail. (Who else thought of Uma Thurman when they read that??)
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January 17, 2022

Time: 7.5 hours

Cut & Fit shock mount 0.090” plates, measured and drilled tubes for bypass shock bosses, machined 1x0.250” wall shock bosses, and tack welded shock bosses using allthread to position them. bump formed main 3/16” shock mount so it wraps around B-pillar for more strongness and easier weld access.

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Main 3/16” shock mount plate wrapped around B-Pillar
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January 22, 2022

Time since last update: 7 hours
Music: Operation Ivy, Pennywise, Bad Religion

Wind: holy fuck

Leaves that blew under my roll up door: all of them

Tools: Makita DA orbital sander, Lathe, SWAG press brake, finger brake, Ameribrade, bandsaw, scissors & cardboard

Inner 3/16” coilover shock mount plate has 3X bends and hits the bottom of the 1.5” tube.
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Reworked the upper forward closeout plate that hits the b-pillar.
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Tried to devise an intelligent bench vs on-the-truck weld scheme. Wrestled with weld/install sequence.
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All 9 pieces DA’d and ready for weld.
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Setting up and carefully marking the bends on the driver’s side main shock mount plate.
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Fucking nailed it!!!
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Machined weld washers for the insides of the main shock mount plates. Material was 1.0x0.250” wall 4130 tube. Reamed the ID to 0.501” to facilitate the implementation of fancy bolts.
Spacer thicknesses are as follows:
0.375”
0.285”
And
0.125”
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Washers positioned in their future homes.
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January 26, 2022

Time: 4 hours
Not pictured: welded some areas on the -B-pillar that I couldn’t reach before. “Oh my god! It’s not 360 welded? How are you not dead? Holy fuck!!!” No cracks yet besides the thin under-engine crossmember where the lower arms pivot. (And I gusseted the fuck out of that area while the motor was out)

Setup for weld washer innerlays. Black oxide bolts and uncoated nuts=zero cancer smoke fuckityness.
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Burned in
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Somebody asked what I use for a plate brake. Answer: SWAG weld it yourself plate brake and a 25ton enerpak air over hydraulic setup. Dayton press. Easily bends thick plate because of the large opening of the bottom die. Not-so-easy to execute bends close to edges. A sacrificial support plate is usually required if excess plate for bends is not planned.
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Shock mounts weigh 9.625lbs.
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^^^37’s looking ready to party.


Enhance
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Enhance. Hahah thanks @Heer_O !!!
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Progressively tacked and incrementally removed and reinstalled the shock mount to see what could be removed and bench welded.
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Internal closeout can be seen just aft of the cab firewall. Wait… where the firewall used to reside…
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Ready for bench welding.
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Good shop dog!
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January 31, 2022

Time since last update: 18.5 hours

Fucks yelled: 2 (hit my head on a C-clamp, and frustration of refitting bench-welded shock mount due to warpage)
Drinks: couple Coors Banquets yesterday, and a 9% rule Big Little Thing ( @dwphoto ) earlier in the week.

Footwear: RBX shitty running shoes from Ross. Dress for less, bitches.

Tools: dinosaur Lincoln TIG, Rockwell bandsaw, air grinders, Makita DA sander, SWAG brake, Ameribrade 2x72

Music: mostly metal with a sprinkling of 90’s and early 2000’s punk.

Welded the passenger side shock mount on the bench, which resulted in a few hours of refitting once I brought it back to the truck. Still got it to fit titties… wrestling that fucker on and off was getting pretty old.
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Tacked in place
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Made all the 0.090” 4130 plates for the drivers side
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Tight
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More tightness
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Happy with the styling and cleanliness of the side view.
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Process: pry shock mount out from upper tube, grunt, slide down B-pillar, then pry off of b-pillar by pushing down.
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Only bench welded the hard-to-reach areas on this one.
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Put it back on the truck with zero fitment issues this time. No tuning required, which was pleasant. With the helping hands of AccidentSon, I got it tacked into its final resting place.
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Went for it. Did the majority of welding on the driver’s side on the vehicle. Not as comfortable as sitting at the bench.
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Jumped back and forth welding all over the place to spread around the heat input and reduce warpage.
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Bump wrapped around the B-pillar for weld access
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Upskirt
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holy shit.

LIKE, HOLY SHIT.




wait, maybe nevermind. Are YOU doing all this tittyrific work, or is somewhere/someone else doing it and im just being lazy and dont want to look for the post because this page takes 69 years to load with all the pictures (thats good though, we love pics!)?
i thought you were just a professional beer slammer?
 
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