Local Legend Project: Tur-BRO-yota

Hilarious post from @h0runner on Feb 10, 2022

“You don’t personally know turbo so you don’t understand his driving style kinda requires links. He’s a 230# albino gorilla with a right foot made of lead and hate. Deavers have worked for him for a few years but all aspirations for keeping this a simple to work and back fun truck have gone out the window.”
 
February 7, 2022

Time since last update: 24.5 hours

Cracks that opened up on calloused fingers that take forever to heal: 2. One next to thumbnail and another one on my index finger.

Will I ever start wearing gloves?: No.

Materials:
32 feet 1.75x0.120” wall 4130
6 feet 1.5x0.120” wall 4130
8 feet 2x2”x1/8” angle iron
10 feet 1.5x1.5x0.090” square tube

Beers: copious amounts. Bought 72 beers Thursday night, they were all gone by Saturday night between me, whitetrashKyle, AccidentSon, and FatJeff

Friday lunch: Thai Food. Green curry Thai spicy for the fucking win.

Tools: JMR notcher, Ameribrade, Evolution 14” loud-as-fuck metal saw that makes incredibly sharp and hot chips everywhere, DinosaurLincoln Tig welder, Ryobi drill, drill press, #3 drill and 1/4-28 tap, bandsaw, and 4.5 grinders. Basically the full gamut of fab tools for slingin’ tube work.

Finished fully welding the shock mounts. That acute angle between the tube and the top plate of the shock mounts was a challenge. Had to left hand tig weld a lot of it…
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Did some Frog Tape tube layout scheming
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Cut off the vertical stub tubes and cleaned up the joints where I cut other tubes out previously.
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Mock-up. I talked to odrmse Roy about how much clearance he recommends at full bump to the fuel cell. He runs 4” on his canyonero, and he has only hit the tank skid once while going down the stair steps into La Paz. I can achieve 11” of clearance and still keep the spares at the bed line. So be it.
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Slang some tubes. The diagonal above the upper links had a really weird complicated notch at the b-pillar. It sits 7/8” above the upper links at full bump.
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X above upper links complete
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Full flex to facilitate coilover clearance. This is how I set the location of the fore-aft tubes that are just inboard of the shocks.
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Fuel cell structure made from 1.5x0.090” square tube. Drilled & tapped 22X 1/4”-28 holes in that bitch.

Transfer punch, then drilled #3 holes on the drill press
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Power tapped 1/4-28 with the Nairobi
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Cell secured with a 8 SHCS and is really close to its final location
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20 deg notch in the works:
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There she is. I also made the little 5” long 1.5” tube (on the right) that ties it into the horizontal 1.5” tube that goes between the bottom of the b-pillars. That horizontal tube is where my new floor will land.
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Bottom fuel cell cradle coming together. Material is 2x2x1/8” angle. Skid plate below the cell will be 1/4” aluminum.
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Last edited:
Feb 17, 2022

Hours since last update: 11
Materials: 1.5x0.120” 4130 and 1.75x0.120” 4130.

Fuel cell cradle weight: 29lbs
Fully mig welded
2x2x1/8” angle iron and 1.5x0.09” wall square tube construction.
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Hot Damn that looks sweet
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Leveling & centering the fuel cell cradle
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Masking tape enginerding. With the spares below the bed line, I have 12” ground clearance to the bottom of the fuel cell. Probably 7” with tire squish.
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I want to get some good storage in the real estate below the spare and between the cell and inside of the bedside. Do I want the batteries that low? My gut says no… maybe that’ll be spares storage or recovery gear or firewood storage. Who the fuck knows.
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I have some storage room forward of the tires and above the cell where my arm is.
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Lower horizontal cell cradle tube and upper corner support stub tubes burned in. Those little tubes to the corners of the square frame structure were fun little pieces to make.
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Enhance
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Burned in a good amount of the tube structure.
Argon Flow rate: 20 cfm with #8 gas lens
3/32 mystery Tungsten
1/16” filler
140 amps
Welded all areas that would be covered by other tubes for maximum strengthiness
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Enhance
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2-22-22

Rear bedcage setup fuckery. I finally had to bend a fucking tube. Fuck.

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Oh hello up in there!
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Fun little notch right thur!
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Full flex gets pretty tight to the spares! And the tire is inside and above the bedside. Sick.
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Count the clamps, jacktands, clecos, pipe stands, tables, squares, tubes, stools, stairs, and tape I used as I cobbled together the rear portion of the truck.


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This should allow me to eliminate regular bedside “mounts” and use the bedcage and storage structure instead. The flat top of the bedside will bolt directly down through to the outer upper cage tubes.
 
March 2, 2022

Bends for all the bent tube lovers out there.

@dose

And some miters thrown into the mix. The vertical tube is positioned to clear the taillight plugs, if you were gonna ask: wHy iSnT iT aT a NoDe?
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Leia!!
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Lots of aft storage under the tire. Not sure how I’ll make it easily accessible, but all I’ve fetched out of the back on the last few trips has been beer, and I want to locate that commodity closer to mid-vehicle anyway.
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Mirrored tube layout scheme. How do you guys do it? Is there a better way?
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Curvy. I want to grab it by the waist and smack that ass!
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Layout with my super custom 5.5CLR protractor
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Rear bumper action
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March 15, 2022
Shit that’s there is 80% tig welded at this point.

Here’s some fucking pics, you fucking fucks. Feel free to talk shit and I will answer questions/hurl insults per usual…

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Imagine a plane parallel to the top of the fuel cell… everything below that plane and above the lower cagework is all storage space. There is a fuckton of space.
 
March 30, 2022

Rear tube work nearing completion. 69% tig welded at this stage. Just missing tubes from rear bumper to fuel cell that’ll support the winch. And a tube aft of the cell to support tires.

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2x2x1/4” angle gussets tie the upper link pivots into the stock frame rail. Tube directly above it is 1.25x0.120” 4130, and it connects into the seat mount tube and will support the floor and be tied into the upper link pivot
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Floor structure and rear cage tie ins to stock frame can be seen here:
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Bulkhead between cell and rearend has a 18degree bend it in to clear the rearend and to make @dose happy.
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Spare tire support tubes to the sides of the cell. There are bends on those fuckers as well.
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April 2, 2022

2.5x4” King Bumpstops going in!

Time: 3 hours
Materials: 1/8” P&O plate, 0.190” 4130 plate
Tools: bandsaw, drill press, hole saws, 25T press, dimple dies, dinosaur tig welder, orbital sander, finger brake

Note that 2X plates are tack welded welded together for the holesawing operation. That clamp only gave up twice allowing the plate to turn into a fucking lawnmower blade of death. No big deal.
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Smashed some dimples. Who here hates dimple died plate? Was it @the bodj ? Whoever it is, eat a bushel of dicks.
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Bump strike pads are 0.190” 4130
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April 18, 2022

Closing the cab.

Time: 15 hours
Tools: HF electric sheetmetal shears, bandsaw, finger brake, tig welder, migger, bead roller, Clecos
Materials: 1/8” & 18ga cold rolled, 14ga HR, ram board

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Cage to old body mount gusset burned in:

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April 18, 2022 seat mounting shit

Clevis through the floor cross member. With the floor sheet metal and that cross member, it’s like ~1/8” thick. I’m gonna raise the back of the seat 1/2” for more ass-to-metal clearance on hard hits.
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Enhance. Fuck yes, those are fancy aerospace fasteners!
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April 25, 2022
Time: 7 hours
Beers: 8 Coors Lights
Music: Bad Religion Playlist

These tube gussets took me about an hour. Bandsaw and AmeriBrade for the motherfuckin win!

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Last cab closeout piece this welds to the stock seat crossmember on the bottom, and the rear seat tube(1.25x0.065” 4130) on the top side. On the left, it welds to the 1.75x0.095” tube at the bottom of the door. There was about a 1” section that I could not reach with the migger right above the frame. I’ll sweep some seam sealer on there.
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Started paneling in the trunk area. I think I will abandon this endeavor and concentrate on getting the truck driving. Material is 0.050” mystery aluminum. Dzus shit is from A-A mfg.
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After I decided to cease work on the paneling tin work, I did some cardboard arts and crafts.
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Not overly stoked on how it looks. Fuckit, whatever, it’s a Schreiner housing…
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Prasma Cuttel process… clamp aluminum bar and cut shit out.
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Piece I’m holding needs a slight bend to fit properly. I have a nice fill cap, but I couldn’t locate it yesterday. Fuck.
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holy fu*$@#&#$&@*K.

are YOU doing all this work?
you're almost as good at fu*$#*ing fabricating as you are at slamming beer.



also........ THANK YOU FOR THIS PICTURE!
MY MIND JUST GOT BLOWN!!!!!!!! I NEVER KNEW HOWWWWWWWWWWWWWW IN THE WORLD PEOPLE MADE THESE GUSSETS WITH NOTCHES THIS BIG AND CLOSE TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!! NOW I DO!!!!!!!!!

i mean, i dont have a vertical bandsaw and prolly wont ever have one, but at least now i can settle my thoughts and wondering about these gussets. hahah
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June 18, 2022

Update.

Finished welding the muffstuff trailing arms.

Finished welding the Schreiner rearend link pivots and inspection/fill cap

Painted upper and lower links and housing.

100% tig welded all the cagework

Finished winch mounting scheme. Receiver tube welded to cage, receiver tube welded to winch cradle, 2.0x0.250” coupler in between with 2 pins. It’ll move to the front by pulling 1 pin and unplugging a 175A golf cart coupler.
Still need to cap stock frame.
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The tube forward of the winch mount is the plane of the bottom of the spare tires. I’ll tie it into the outer structure probably.
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Driveline
—————————-
After 14 iterations:

0.875” driveshaft plunge
24.75” travel
Trans to carrier bearing FWD driveshaft angle: 7.5deg down from trans

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Angled down from trans by 7.5 deg. Hopefully that is okay.
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Driveshaft graffiti fuckery
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2” coupler with both receiver tubes:

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2” coupler with only the frame-mounted receiver tube
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Heavy ass winch tray. I’m gonna cut the passenger side off by 10”
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