Local Legend Project: Tur-BRO-yota

[Turboyota]

October 9, 2019

Front suspension nearly complete:

Shocks: King 3.0x10” IBP with compression adjuster.
Bumpstops: King 2.0x2” 72cc oil, 75psi
Spring rates: 10” 500 over 12” 600
Secondary slider stoppers: set 1” above coil separator at ride height.
Track width: 82” at ride height
Travel: 17.5” bumped and strapped
Brake pads: EBC Yellowstuff
Calipers: Wilwood 120-11131 1.62” piston, 4.12 sqin piston area
Rotors: Wilwood 160-5844 12.19” dia, 0.81” width
Hubs: Speedway Engineering 5315-11 (fuckin’ 7075 aluminum, bitches!)
Snouts: Coleman 2” 811-102
Axle nuts: Coleman AN-853 (45 ft-lbs)


Reservoirs mounted SPECIFICALLY to trigger the OCD crowd:

 

[Turboyota]

October 28, 2019

T100 rearend install

Time: 2 hours to cut off leaf spring pads and other bullshit. +1/2 hour trying to stem the bleeding from my knuckle that I clearanced with a grinding stone.
Tools: 3X 4.5” grinders. Stone, flap disc, and cutoff wheel. Used 5X cutoff wheels.

T100 rearend install: 7 hours

Set pinion angle and welded in the leaf spring perches:

Made some shock mount templates:

Copy in metal:

More paint? Holy fuck, I am making some serious life progress over here!

Super bro 3.0x16” 5 tube bypasses.

 

[Turboyota]

November 8, 2019

Drivable again.

The $260 Odyssey only lasted 3 years—gay.

Brakes seem excellent!

 

[Brett_408]

Are those U-bolts on the T-100 axle?

 

[Turboyota]

Are those U-bolts on the T-100 axle?

Hahahaha! Those will get addressed in due time.

 

[Turboyota]

January 4, 2020

Drive that truck like a complete asshole around my yard:


Time: 3 hours
Beers: 6 Keystones
Silicon Bronze rods: 6
Double ended 3/32” tungstens dipped: 7
Amps: 85
Years those fucking dimpled plates sat around my shop: 3-4
Yoga tig poses: 69
Helmet darkness: 10-10.5

 

[Turboyota]

March 9, 2020
Time since last update: 2 months, 4 days
Hours: 6
Materials: 3/16 & 1/8” P&O plate
Music: 80’s rock mashup
Drinks: not nearly enough for the shit I had to redo...

I bent my driver’s side upper A-arm, gosh diddly darn it. 1.25x0.090” square tube is of insufficient strength for my preferred driving style.

Cut the arm, pounded it flat, bolted it back to the truck and added a gusset:

I used the arm as a template and traced some 3/16” cold rolled sandwich plates with the plasma cutter. Arm was tacked to the 3/16” plate.

Added an 1/8” bulkhead at the tweaked bend location:

Removed the paint & primer from the driver’s side arm while hanging out in the AmeriBrade booth at KOH. Migged the rusty flange plates on without cleaning anything. I still think my MIG game needs improvement.

I sandblasted the passenger side arm & sandwich plates. Welds were slightly better.

Sprayed with WD40 for effect. Meh.

 

[Turboyota]

March 10, 2020

Bumped the suspension so I could trim & fit the fiberglass. I actually wore PPE during this fuckin’ party.

 

[Turboyota]

March 17, 2020

Rereading this shit made me laugh:

From my homosexual sex acts on Instagram:

Forums are so much fucking cooler than Instagram.

 

[Turboyota]

 

[Turboyota]

March 20, 2020

Finished passenger side inner cage-to-body tie-in plate:

Time: 3.5 hours
•Tools: Dinosaur Lincoln Idealarc 300 TIG welder, Sioux 90deg air grinder, 2” Scotchbrite roloc discs, Irwin Quick-Grip clamps, 12” Vise Grip welders clamp.
•1/16” Silicon Bronze Rods: 8
•Tungsten dips: 16
•Fucks yelled: 16
•TIG yoga poses: 4 (no pics, sorry)
•Yard pisses: 4
•Drinks: 6 cups of Coffee, 6 Coors Lights. Thats right, esteemed colleagues, I had 6 beers before 8AM.


Clamped up ready for tacktacktack-a-roos:

Welded everything that had zero gappage, then formed the aft section with a combination of hammering with a ball peen hammer and oak block and then clamping with a long-reach vise grip clamp.

Same process on the driver’s side. This side was more difficult for me for some reason. Cramped quarters and leaning backward into the truck with the small of my back scorpioned over the seat made me unsteady. Lots of tungsten dips on this side...

Done. I hate that fucking sunroof. Fuck.

Than I put the godforsaken dash back in.

Mostly.

4 hours into that thus far. I moved the fuse box by the driver’s left foot, and I am mostly done moving the computer that’s above the passenger’s feet. I had to do a bunch of trimming the clear the new cage-to-body tie-in plates. Fitment is still fairly shitty. The right side wasn’t fit yet in the only pic I took during that miserable shittiness:

 

[Turboyota]

March 26, 2020
New taillights and corner markers:

Dash, carpet, and door moldings are tuned up and complete. I don’t enjoy the component installation stuff, detailing, or assembly.

A-pillars and windshield /\ need to be painted before the windshield goes back in.

 

[Turboyota]

March 31, 2020

Time: 2.5 hours
Materials: 1.5x0.120” 4130 tube, 1 can of 80’s brown paint
Tools: Rockwell dinosaur bandsaw and DeWalt 4.5” grinder with flap disc, Sharpie

 

[Turboyota]

April 6, 2020

Worked on exhaust routing. I want it to work when the truck gets linked.

Got a 3” CAT to be legit.

 

[Turboyota]

April 6, 2020

Drinks: 1/2 bottle of Jameson. Some right out of the bottle like a fucking degenerate alcoholic, some in my morning coffee like a civilized WFH professional.
Materials: 1/8” 7075 condition O. I know, I know, T6 would be better. I have condition O, so fuck you.
Materials continued: 1.5x0.120” 4130 tube and 3/16 4130 plate for the front of the frame crossmember.
Tools: lazy migger, shitty USPS cardboard because i ran out of the good chipboard stuff.
Hours: 5. I think. Fuck, I dunno.
Injuries: pipe stand fell on my foot after bandsawing the 1/8” plate. My toes are black and blue—turns out slip-on Vans offer insufficient impact resistance. Huh.

I will add interlocking tube bungs right behind the front crossmember next time I need to remove the oil pan.

Skid plate tabs positioned for tack welding with this highly technical paint stick setup:

Skid plate CAD work:

Cut those fuckers out on the bandsaw. Mostly.

Could not quite reach this area.

Tuned up the edges:

I can’t wait to fuck these up!

 

[Turboyota]

April 14, 2020

New Exhaust & LCA rear pivot crossmember

Beers: 24 Coors Heavy
Booze: 2/3 bottle Jameson
Rock-N-Roll: Slayer, Dropkick Murphys, Guardians of the Galaxy Soundtrack, Metal covers by Leo Moracchioli
Hours: 12~ish
Exhaust Materials: 3” 304 Stainless U-J mandrel bend, other random pieces of stainless I had sitting around. Catco 3” Catalytic converter, V-band clamp
Exhaust Cost: 3” U-J bend $76, Catalytic Converter $180, 3” V-band flanges & clamp $18

Crossmember materials: 1.75x0.120 tube welded to 3/4” ID x 1/4” thick washers from mcmaster. Those washers weld like absolute dogshit. They fucking undercut like a motherfucker—must be high carbon steel or freemachining steel or something... the rest of the connection tubes were 1.5x0.120” 4130 scraps.

Expletives: fairly low key. Exhaust fell down and smashed me in the ear last week, but that’s about it. Single fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck spoken evenly and softly while exhaling and trying to keep my composure through the anger.
Time: usually 330-530AM. I had been working from home for 3 goddamn weeks ant this point and I still could not sleep past fucking 3AM.

Welded up the LCA rear pivot brace tubes:
Heavy tacks:

Fucking shitty tig welds because those washers are fucking bullshit:

Machined them true after welding:

Got all this rear LCA crossmember shit done in about 2.5 hours.

Burned it in the next morning:

Finally capped these frame outriggers. Used 0.125” 4130 scraps.

Exhaust!

Mocked my muffler and tire up to verify clearance. I will be able to switch to 37x10.5 buggy tires as soon as I can get my dirty hands on some. Muffler mounts are 5/16” rod and 0.090” 4130 sheet. Muffler is spaced off the inside of the fiberglass by 2.25”. I plan to wrap the muffler with Lavawrap.

1.25” rubber-to-muff clearance

Centerdrills are the bees knees

Routed exhaust so links will assuredly clear:

Upper link mount will be pushed back about 6” from where it is shown

Finished exhaust. I tigged all of it.

Upper fender exit!

 

[Turboyota]

April 14, 2020

This bedside closeout/go-fast heatshield piece will be Inconel or stainless with 10-32 fasteners on 5/8” spacing around the periphery.

Nailed it!!!

 

[Turboyota]

April 19, 2020

JAZ Jeepspeed 32 gallon Fuel Cell Filler Plate: adapting stock toyota fuel pump assembly and sending unit.

Beers: 8 Coors Banquets
Booze: last 1/3 bottle Jameson
Hours: 3.5
Materials: 1/8” 7075 Aluminum plate, repurposed motorcycle turbo fitting that i machined 12 years ago. Said fitting will adapt to the stock filler neck.
Expletives used in anger: None
Expletives to express satisfaction: many
PPE: safety glasses

Tools: Rockwell bandsaw, Sioux 90deg air grinder, Dynabrade straight grinder with aluminum-specific carbide burr, Taiwan Drill press, Ryobi 1/2” drill, 3”, 2”, and 1.5” hole saws, #21 drill and 10-32 tap, #7 drill and 1/4-20 tap, various transfer punches, 9/32” drill bit, Harbor Freight DA orbital sander, 320 grit adhesive-backed sand paper, red Scotchbrite, carbide scribe, scissors, cardboard, Starrett compass dividers, Kant-twist and Vise Grip clamps, Dykem layout fluid

Number of holes drilled: 42
Number of holes tapped: 15

Ready for surgery:

A bunch of the screws were turning when i removed the nuts to remove the filler plate, so I had to reach in there and hold the bolt heads. Fuck.

Used the dividers to draw circles to help me envision where the various components would go. Drank beer at 5AM.

I love the smell of Dykem in the morning!

Clamped the steel plate on top of my freshly dykemed plate and transfer punched the periphery holes. Traced the outside shape with the carbide scribe.

Bandsawed outer profile:

Tuned up outer shape with air grinders. Drank more beer.

Drilled all 24 periphery holes 9/32”
Excellent fitment!

Decided on a layout scheme

Fit check:

The 7-hole pattern in the fuel pump assembly and the 5-hole pattern in the sending unit both only bolt on 1-way; the holes are unevenly spaced. I spent some time making sure the sending unit didn’t interfere with the fuel pump, and the fuel pump mat mesh pre-filter chingadera didn’t hit the vertical walls of the cell.

Once I was sure about how they would be clocked relative to one another, I transfer punched the mounting holes. And drank more beer.

Drilled 12X #21 holes and 3X #7 holes. Added light chamfers to the periphery holes with a single flute 90deg countersink.

Tapped all those fuckers with the Ryobi. No broken taps.

DA’d the surface. Drank beer.

Finished product.

 

[Turboyota]

June 22, 2020

Made some filler plates for the slots I cut in the dash defrost chingon for the rollcage windshield /\.

Material: 18 gauge steel
Total bends: 5 (pretty much nailed them all)
Tools: finger brake, clecos, body hammer, Nairobi drill, #30 drill bit, AmeriBrade, KantTwist clamp, 4.5” grinder w/cutoff blade
Fucks: zero
PPE: flip flops
Music: CKY
Drinks: 5X Naturday
Pic dump, they are fairly self-explanatory:

Couldn’t bend the last lip in the brake, so I clamped it to the table with some 3/8” square bar and beat it down with a body hammer:

Then I actually painted them and put my interior completely back together.

Mounted this $10 swapmeet-scored Artec fluid holder. Added braces on the bottom.

Made a set screw hold-down for my super sick exhaust tip:

Glued my old windshield back in with some expired hi-temp silicone:

Then threw down 42 dirt miles with my son Michael:

Water temps were hitting 215F, which made me a little nervous. So Dave in the Broverland Command Center Sequoia and I turned around at El Mirage and headed back to Phelan where Mobza Brent lives.

My plan was to take dirt from Phelan all the way to Husky Monument.

We drank beer while the truck cooled down instead of crushing dirt miles. Fuck.

 

[Turboyota]

4th of July, 2020

Fixed the overheating problems

Time: 4 hours
Cost: $0
Weight added: 15lbs (mostly in the girthy copper radiator)
Materials: 0.050” 5052 Aluminum
Music: Me First and the Gimme Gimmes and The Vandals
Beers: 6
Tools: bandsaw, finger brake, bead roller, drill press

Deleted plastic/aluminum radiator and installed an all-Copper unit that was 0.8” thicker and 1.75” taller. Only modifications required were new holes for my McMaster rubber vibration mounts and a new bottom radiator hose.

Made some ducting to direct air through the radiator. Use some 0.050” 5052. Attached with 10-32 NAS pan heads

Reinstalled everything

Truck stayed under 190F! Kickass!

More aluminum panels to direct airflow:

Moved the coolant overflow hose because it looked awful atop the ducting/shrouding.

Cut all the restrictions out of the stock grille. Approximately 30 square inches of flow-blocking material removed. 2” saw on the die grinder cut the plastic much better than an abrasive cutoff wheel.

More flow!

Gap in the top above the fan shroud doesn’t seem to have any detrimental effects on cooling performance.