- Apr 7, 2022
anyone else read through this and feel really dumb or is it just me. Really impressed with your abilities.
Oh then that’s for sure wide enough to handle the leverage. And yes it’s the front bushings that tend to ware out. It’s nothing crazy, it just noticeable when going from acceleration to braking you can feel the arm slightly shift when the bushings ware out.Thanks for the heads up, I have lived through the upper crossmember and bushing problems on 3 different generations of Toyotas and know it well. Interesting that the 4wd has a noticeable effect on wear as usually braking forces far exceed the force that a driven front wheel would exert but maybe the opposing forces come into play. That's mainly the front bushing right?
I do plan to build the upper around both shocks so have about a 15in spread using 7/8 heims and 5/8 hardware. I've locked in the arm geometry and started modeling the lower arm subframe so that I can get the steering dialed in. Working dual path on a CNC plasma cutter and it has me bogged down on building the control box right now. I should make a build thread on that as it's been a lot of fun.
Hold please, I have some weird ideas for swingers and bearings. I’ve always wanted to try these but haven’t had the project to use them on yet. I can tell you not to use Teflon as a bushing that takes any kind of shock load. I turned my own bushings out of “virgin Teflon” and although it had a very low coefficient of friction, it has poor memory so once it compresses it doesn’t fully return to its original shape. So if you look into bushings and those types of material look for something that has good impact resistance.I do need some help though, what is the best joint for steering swingers?
In my mind..
Urethane bushings have play and lots of drag
Delrin bushings are free-er but I've had problems developing play as it wears
Brass bushings seem to wear faster than Delrin unless I'm doing something wrong
Uniballs or hiems would have some drag and need multiples to only rotate like a bushing
Needle bearings aren't sealed and need a polished inner shaft
Sealed roller bearings aren't rated all that high in the 1.5in OD range
Unit bearings are too big even in a 4 lug car and are single shear.
UTV bearings are a unitized back to back tapered roller bearing with seals but seem too big and are all goofy metric sizes
Use ram assist, you can weld your steering together and it’ll still steer with a ramTapered bearings would be way less friction than uniballs which would add drag to the steering wheel. Even just the tie rod heims add a bunch of drag to the steering that would be nice to eliminate. The need to machine a housing and preload sleeve either way.