Local Legend Mai-Tai-Yota

[charlie brown]

I've never heard of roller bearing swingers till now. Does the bolt and nut set the bearing preload? I'm assuming Double nut? Cotter pin? something to that affect? or just a crush sleeve and Neanderthal strength like hubs.

sorry, i meant needle bearings (sealed) is what i have been using. just a spacer tube between the bearings and at the ends.

 

[Brett_408]

sorry, i meant needle bearings (sealed) is what i have been using. just a spacer tube between the bearings and at the ends.

Gotcha like a dirt bike swing arm linkage.

 

[Motiracer38]

It's nice to hear good results form needle bearings, I was worried about dirt intrusion and fretting on the spacer tube. Hollow hardened shafts are available as are rubber sealed to solve both those. What is done on the ends to take the load along the shaft? Seem like the sheetmetal end of the bearing would be rubbing on the flat tab?

 

[84Prerunner]

sorry, i meant needle bearings (sealed) is what i have been using. just a spacer tube between the bearings and at the ends.

Are you referring to ball bearings?

 

[charlie brown]

this is what i ordered from mcmaster.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/8258K24

 

[Motiracer38]

I settled on a swinger pivot style, ended up going with a flanged sealed ball bearing. I found a size that fits in a standard tube and should be easy to setup with minimal preload on a spacer. If the cheap Chinese bearings don't work then NHBB, Koyo, and Aurora all make the same size to add reliability.


I also picked up a transfer case. Went with an NP242 to try out part time 4wd. Got it with a Jeep trans that I disassembled to get the output shaft from. Some fresh bearings and a reseal and it'll be time to tear apart my trans.

 

[Motiracer38]

Had to trim a little bit back to resolve some clearance issues. Everything should be able clear now.

 

[theycallmeWALLY]

Put the SawZall away...

 

[Turboyota]

You’re going to be able to fit two huge turbos now!

 

[Chancegoodman]

Had to trim a little bit back to resolve some clearance issues. Everything should be able clear now.
View attachment 19440

If this is your definition of a little I wonder what a lot is too you

 

[GahnRacing]

Can’t wait to see this thing with TTBs…

 

[Motiracer38]

I wish I was done cutting but the transmission crossmember still has to go and the floor reworked a bit to tuck the transfer case up where it needs to go.

No beams ever!

 

[LoganB]

What the actual fuck. Hahah

 

[Motiracer38]

I played hooky from work to enjoy the rain and get my geometry dialed in finally.
19in total travel, 10 up and 9 down. Ground clearance for days
33deg steering with 100% Ackermann limited by 1.25 vertical uniballs
6deg anti dive with caster going from .74 at droop, 6 at ride height, and 8.3 at bump
Caster -6 at bump, -1.5 at ride height, and -2.3 at droop
Outer CV set to 43 degrees at full droop and full steer, Inner at 31.5 with negligible shaft plunge.

This image looks like a bowl of spaghetti but it all has a place. Next step is to finalize placement on the truck and get to the fun part of designing sheetmetal.

 

[the_fablab_]

Who doesn’t like spaghetti

 

[DialedShockPrep]

What is the reasoning for adding anti dive into the setup? I understand the benefits of it on a road/street application but I have seen a number of times where anti dive causes harshness in braking bumps and/or ripped upper mounts from the from due to the additional loads placed on the upper pivots. I’m all for building the pivots to have some degree of rake so the tires swing up and back as they cycle but most aftermarket long travel “kits” now a days level the upper arm pivots to remove the anti dive

 

[Motiracer38]

I'm trying to keep decent road manners and I believe anti squat helps a ton in keeping the chassis flat when braking on asphalt. I removed it when I redid a previous trucks upper arms and with the same shocks and rear links it made a terrible difference on the street. It seemed to matter less in the dirt in the typical low grip setting but you're right that it firmed it up which may not be a bad thing. Also remember I am running way less damping than your typical race truck for that Cadillac ride at 40mph so a little added harshness may not be terrible.

 

[jonsangel]

kudos to you for doing the 4WD suspension design with a motor swap. Shits not easy. Looks like your making all the right choices so far

 

[DialedShockPrep]

I'm trying to keep decent road manners and I believe anti squat helps a ton in keeping the chassis flat when braking on asphalt. I removed it when I redid a previous trucks upper arms and with the same shocks and rear links it made a terrible difference on the street. It seemed to matter less in the dirt in the typical low grip setting but you're right that it firmed it up which may not be a bad thing. Also remember I am running way less damping than your typical race truck for that Cadillac ride at 40mph so a little added harshness may not be terrible.

Makes sense! You can help negate the diving with springs and such but yeah for your application that makes sense for sure.
Just bring me the shocks when it’s closer to being done and I’ll set it up so it’s squishy at any speed haha. This thing is going to be really cool I’ll be watching it progress!

 

[the bodj]

Is pigeon towing the upper arm mounts (closer together at the rear mounts than front mounts) frowned upon? That way you can keep the upper arm mounts level but still gain caster at bump. (I know it's not a novel idea, but what are the drawbacks?)