Local Legend Mai-Tai-Yota

Looks great Brian! Love the ambition on this one! This is going to be sick once you make it happen.
 
Progress has been slow but I got to work on the output shafts. Cut the stock tripod off, bored out a trans flange and pressed the two together. Need to weld them up someday but had to get dimensions finalized. Could have bought them for $700 but trying to save a buck and hoping it doesn't bite me. Ended up at 14-3/4in flange width which is more than I thought and the same as a 9" oddly enough.
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Motiracer38 said:
Progress has been slow but I got to work on the output shafts. Cut the stock tripod off, bored out a trans flange and pressed the two together. Need to weld them up someday but had to get dimensions finalized. Could have bought them for $700 but trying to save a buck and hoping it doesn't bite me. Ended up at 14-3/4in flange width which is more than I thought and the same as a 9" oddly enough.
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Ha! I was just getting ready to text you that I found the stub I made if you wanted it for mock up reasons.

Just fyi, the 2009+ exploder uses a dual pinion mount instead of the single. Incase you wanted more strength.
 
84projectFORD said:
Ha! I was just getting ready to text you that I found the stub I made if you wanted it for mock up reasons.

Just fyi, the 2009+ exploder uses a dual pinion mount instead of the single. Incase you wanted more strength.
Click to expand...
Aww dang, would have saved me some time but all good it's done now. 2006 to 2010 Explorer uses the dual pinion mount which I did pick up. The housing itself has a few more castings than the Mustang but I'm waiting on a steel cover to open it up to see what I can get away with shaving off.

I was looking into gear choices and getting frustrated. From memory I have 5.13 gears in my rear end but I can only find sets sold as 5.13 gears having 36:7 gears which is 5.143 ratio. Oddly enough one company makes an 8.8 5.13 which is also 36:7 and actually 5.143 where another makes 5.14 with a 41:8 that is 5.125. I'd like to go deeper but the 8.8 looks to max out at a 5.714 ratio which I cannot find in a 9" axle. Closest is 5.750 which means the front tires would cover 33 more inches per mile than the rear, or I need to burn off .125in diameter on the rear tires before engaging 4wd. Ideally I need to find some 40:7 gears for a 9inch axle.
 
Motiracer38 said:
Aww dang, would have saved me some time but all good it's done now. 2006 to 2010 Explorer uses the dual pinion mount which I did pick up. The housing itself has a few more castings than the Mustang but I'm waiting on a steel cover to open it up to see what I can get away with shaving off.

I was looking into gear choices and getting frustrated. From memory I have 5.13 gears in my rear end but I can only find sets sold as 5.13 gears having 36:7 gears which is 5.143 ratio. Oddly enough one company makes an 8.8 5.13 which is also 36:7 and actually 5.143 where another makes 5.14 with a 41:8 that is 5.125. I'd like to go deeper but the 8.8 looks to max out at a 5.714 ratio which I cannot find in a 9" axle. Closest is 5.750 which means the front tires would cover 33 more inches per mile than the rear, or I need to burn off .125in diameter on the rear tires before engaging 4wd. Ideally I need to find some 40:7 gears for a 9inch axle.
Click to expand...
I have 5.125 in my front diff and the 8.8 5.143 in my rear diff. It’s yet to give me any issues at speed and I’ve done a lot of high speed 4wd. I’ve driven on the highway a few times this way accidentally as well. No issues! Never jumped or acted weird till I went to turn and “ah shit, in 4wd”
 
I also ran slightly different ratio's in one of my jeep cherokee's for years issue free. 4.88 rear 4.86 front that jeep was daily driven and did not have selectable hubs so the front was always rotating.
 
Thanks guys, I figured it wouldn't be that big of a deal. Tentatively planning on 5.71 front and 5.75 rear. Although Yukon used to make a 6.14 which should match a 9in but were discontinued and I'm not real sure I want to run that deep of a gear on a truck that sees ample freeway miles.
 
Life has definitely gotten in the way of progress but being sidelined with a cold enabled some progress on the computer modeling side. Each line on the Excel sheet represents one tack, cycle, and re-tack before you burn it in and hope for the best. I finished the design of the lower part of the spindle pushing the lower uniball as far out and up as possible which defined a KPI through the outer joint where the max spindle height is dictated by the inner upper arm pivots colliding with the exhaust manifolds. Lower arm inner pivots are dictated by the diff width to eliminate plunge but changes with upper arm location and is bounded by the articulation limits.
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Once the 2D geometry is complete I can tilt the upper pivot plane back to gain anti dive, define its effect on joint articulation limits, then start on steering.

Also have slowly been buying front drive parts. Picked up boots, 5.71 gears, and sheetmetal cover to build around. Still need an 8.8 LSD axles, and transfer case once I decide on which one can keep my speedo and computer happy. I hope the cutting and welding come soon, I could use a change.
 
That would definitely help lengthen the top arm and flatten out the camber curve at the expense of scrub, but I would need +4.5 offset wheels to make that happen
 
Hey dude this is going to be epic!! So I do have a word of advice but take it with a grain of salt because I'm no genius .I'm not sure on how you're planning on mounting and making the upper arm, but try and make the pivot spread (distance between the front and rear pivots or heims whatever you use) as big as you can within reason. I only say this because if you look at the way the 2wd upper arms mount on a pickup the pivots are on the same plane and close together which has the potential to cause problems. When they are mounted close together the arm has more of a tendency to bend when leveraged under hard braking load. This load is multiplied when adding driving leverage of 4wd. We have found at TC that on 4wd vehicles (especially all time 4wd) the upper arm bushings ware out much faster due to the leverage load on the upper arm under braking AND torque. Anyway I'm pumped on how this is going to turn out dude!
 
Thanks for the heads up, I have lived through the upper crossmember and bushing problems on 3 different generations of Toyotas and know it well. Interesting that the 4wd has a noticeable effect on wear as usually braking forces far exceed the force that a driven front wheel would exert but maybe the opposing forces come into play. That's mainly the front bushing right?

I do plan to build the upper around both shocks so have about a 15in spread using 7/8 heims and 5/8 hardware. I've locked in the arm geometry and started modeling the lower arm subframe so that I can get the steering dialed in. Working dual path on a CNC plasma cutter and it has me bogged down on building the control box right now. I should make a build thread on that as it's been a lot of fun.
 
This rebuild is taking way longer than I had hoped, just busy with life I suppose. At this point I could add a bypass mount to the lower arms, remake the upper arm, build a new shock mount and still have a better chance of making Thanksgiving.
 
making this thing 4wd now?? I jumped from the first post to the last page, I’ll have to catch up on it all one of these days.
Can’t believe I made it into your OG first post back story and had never read it. I still talk about that night from time to time lol
 
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