1982 F250 single cab

2012SVTSC

Active member
Joined
Dec 24, 2023
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162
Location
CA
Hey all!

This is my old ford project!

It's a 1982 F250, engine is a ford 400, it has a T18 4 speed aka 3 speed. Dana 60 rear and 44HD TTB front.

I really enjoy driving this thing! I wanted to rebuild it into something to chill with and cycle into a daily driver, it's nothing hard core just a build I am doing for fun.

Starting in the back.

Because of an abundance of raptor parts around my house I decided to do a rear raptor suspension conversion, I mean it's really just shocks and leafs so pretty much the exact thing it came with from 82.

First thing was getting the leaf springs set up
I got some fabricated leaf mounts from desolate. The rear I keept in the stock location lwtting the shackle do the location work. The front I had to move forward a bit to compensate for the extra leaf length.

I made a doubler plate that will also serve to locate the fron spring mount. It locates off the OEM frame 3/4" frame alignment holes.
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Then on the axle, I needed to convert it to a 2 pin leaf mount, I figured for sure the the pinion angles would be spot on form the two tucks so I based the sprin mount off the stock forged mounts on the axle even though they were in bad shape.
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Well that was dumb and didn't work. The pinion angle was not ideal plus I just thought it was sketch.

So I Haddadddd to grind off the dang spring pearch. I got a new 3" wide pearch from barns 4x4 and tossed on a 2 pin top, set the pinion angle and was gtg. (This was wayyy later after pretending the original set up was good to go).
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Mean while, I made a upper and lower shock mount. Now that I am confident in the spring cycle I locked in the upper location.
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More updates to follow!
 

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Next was the traction bar.

If you ever experienced a stock raptor leaf, you know the axle warp is super bad.

I based it off the ruffstuff kit but modified it a bit.

I know some of you may notice i was asking about setting up the leafs while also already have already setted up my leaf, I was ready to do rework if needed but seems like I will be just fine. So I am keeping this setup for now.

Basically this was the idea, but I changed it a bit:
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Pulled everything last night. Wired wheeled the frame and my wife helped me put some POR on the frame, I'll be doing some black frame paint on top as well once the front is ready.

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You didn't mention anything about the quarter elliptical leafs. What's your reasoning for adding those as opposed to just a heavier standard leaf pack? Looks interesting and I love out-of-the-box thinking.
 
You didn't mention anything about the quarter elliptical leafs. What's your reasoning for adding those as opposed to just a heavier standard leaf pack? Looks interesting and I love out-of-the-box thinking.

Oh yeah those, they are over load springs I went with that set up because I can change the preload on them with an adjustment bolt so if I need more load I can crank the bolt or if I'm unloaded I can take the preload out.

I will probably get deavers at some point but I want to keep a little extra overload.

The have a 650lbs carrying capability each and only engage in the last 4 inches (or more depending on the bolt adjustment) of suspension travel, in droop or normal driving once they come off the bolt they have no effect.20230819_203729.jpg20230819_203702.jpg

I have no idea if it will work! Haha more of a build first ask later type 😅
 
Started putting things back on, this is just a ladder frame bar, I POR'ed it and installed it wet. Painted the black oxide bolts with the por as well.
Not much but progress is progress.

Still waiting on the black frame paint.
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Rear suspension substructure - locator plate? Finial Installation:
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Welp, figured the paint is dry enough, I decided to install the locator plates for the rear suspension fame.

It's just a flat plate so not sure how hard I could make go on, here was the process:

I went with some RTV between the plate and the frame
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Sploched with the finger
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Bolted up, the only two bolts that are finial installed are the massive 3/4" bolts that go though the frame jig holes, the others are just to keep things lined up.

Good thing I taped off some of the silver for my little moose buddy:
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Big ol deformed nut with some red death just to piss off someones grand kids in 30 years.
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I tigetend them as tight as i could with my longest breaker bars. Ill guess 300ftlbs
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And POR on the head for because black oxide.
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Yay! A part is actually installed!!!
 
Last update for now, one more part on.
Desolate Motorsports front hanger. I gave them a coat of steel-it but I am over steel-it two cans didn't even work out of the box. Even with different tips. Idk 🤷‍♂️ I'm probably going to look for a different high quality spray paint for now on.

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Hey another question.

I am setting up the fuel tank, on the top it has a hole 🕳 for the vent. Do I Neeeeed a vent right there with the filler vent still active? The filler vent would be below this one however.
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The reason I am asking is that I want to use that hole for a level sensor, but I can easily drill a new vent hole if needed. (Perfer not to)

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Thoughts???
 
Started doing some of the fuel line build up,

I will be using just two fuel lines, a feed and return (duh)
They will be -6s
So I made these little brackets here:

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They are made so that -6 fittings can fit through, but then a grommet cam be used to secure the line from movement:
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The same set up goes through the bump stop mout to get to the tank. The small line is for a brake line, but it will need to be built on the truck, the fittings will not fit through the grommet holes for that.

I am building everything for the back off bulkhead connections that will start here:
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Dang!
Nice build so far.
Thanks I've been side tracked trying to get the craptor back together and I already missed a trip with my friends because if it.

But I did get the rear suspension substructure all painted and bolted in also got a sweet rear bumper from Desolate.

Cromo back plates for the rear mount.
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New bumper chilling
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The reason some bolts are inboard, and some are facing outboard is because on the mount there is actually threads on some holes for absolutely zero possibility of movement, so the structure is bolted to the frame without nuts in 8 locations, then the deformed nuts are back up... if that makes sense.
 
That hole on the top of the tank is for the rollover valve, which many people gut so they can fill the tank without the nozzle kicking off all the time. Last time I messed with the tanks on my Bullnose I used some brass PEX? fittings that fit the grommet, Y'd them together and installed a filter on the end. If you use that for the send I'd add another vent somewhere at the very top of the tank. FTI there is a factory tank for the rear that holds like 40 gallons. Google F26 tank swap.
 
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