Hydrolocked 1995 explorer

[Tree trunk]

on a serious note, and at the risk of looking like more of a dummy than I already am.

Other than the chamfers looking really clean, is there any other reason you did them? I imagine you will tig weld them so penetration wouldn’t be an issue

 

[Bpbuilt]

I’m am stupid enough to do this much work and still run 33’s, you already knew that though lol
I did the chamfer on them because it’s so thick, and that side will be up. So once it’s welded it will flow better instead of just a sharp edge or a giant weld bead. Only took a couple minutes to do. You’ll see once they get welded on.

 

[Bpbuilt]

And skinny 35’s will be in the future…

 

[Bpbuilt]

Small update. I got everything mocked up on the driver side, upper, lower, shock mounts, bump stops. Next up is extend axles, limit straps, mount resivors and tie rod then figure out some kind of engine cross member. And then a whole lot of welding!and in regards to my chamfered bump pads once I double pass the weld they will flow nicely.

 

[Bpbuilt]

Well being back to work and having a newborn at home is making it challenging to get out to the garage. I was able to get my axle shafts extended, probably going to vibrate or brake have some ideas if that’s the case.

 

[Bpbuilt]

Little bit of progress, got the spindle tie rod mounts drilled and sleeved for 5/8” bolts, steering rack clevis’s built and tie rods built. Clevis is a mix of 3/16” and 1/8” cromoly, tie rods are 1” .250 wall sleeved with 1.25” on the rnds

 

[Tree trunk]

Looks clean dude weld in bungs? I figured you would have tapped that .250 wall

 

[Bpbuilt]

Looks clean dude weld in bungs? I figured you would have tapped that .250 wall

7/8” shank on the hiems wouldn’t have left much meat on the 1” tubing

 

[the bodj]

Looks clean dude weld in bungs? I figured you would have tapped that .250 wall

Weld in is way easier, too. Not many people have a 7/8" tap lol

 

[Bpbuilt]

Well finding time to get out to the garage is tuff with a 2 month old but getting as much done as I can. Got the tie rods, upper arms, lower arms, shock mounts and all the frame stuff welded. Still a ways to go but plugging away!also bought some fiberglass from Hannemann, super cool guy and only two days from order to pick up! Still need to fit them but should work out perfect.

 

[Tree trunk]

 

[Tree trunk]

Just playing, looks alright

 

[jwchartier]

Super clean work! If you don't mind me asking what are you doing for the taper of the lower balljoint. Did you drill that out to 3/4?

 

[Bpbuilt]

Super clean work! If you don't mind me asking what are you doing for the taper of the lower balljoint. Did you drill that out to 3/4?

Thank you!
Yes I drilled them out for 3/4” bolt however that only took up about half of the tapper, I stated making some very small tapered sleeves to make up the other half of the tapered portion. If I can’t make it work I will drill it over sized and press in a sleeve like I did For the tie rods.

 

[Bpbuilt]

Well everything is painted and starting to go together. Still a ways to go but happy with the progress so far!

 

[Bpbuilt]

Got a few things done last night, camber was set and so was the toe should be in the ball park but will have to check when the weight is on the tires. Made some steering stops for the rack out of delrin, if I go to aftermarket wheels I’ll be able to get a little more turning radius but it works for now. Also was able to get the fiberglass mounted, really impressed with Hannemann Fiberglass almost no trimming or sanding needed to get the gaps looking good.

 

[LoganB]

So what size is your hand? 5/16” or 1 1/8”?

 

[Bpbuilt]

So what size is your hand? 5/16” or 1 1/8”?

Actually my size, length and girth… you can decided which is which lol

 

[Tree trunk]

Big Chode vibes for sure

That’s why you had sharpie mark next to 5/16 on your tape measure….

 

[the_fablab_]

If you don’t like the pin you ended up making for the upper arm into the top of the spindle, you can tap the top of the spindle and run a regular bolt. Then tighten the bolt down and mark where the pinch bolt is going with some spray paint, pull the bolt back out and notch the side of the bolt with a grinder and you’ll have a locking bolt that will never back out and you aren’t just relying on the pinch bolt to hold your front end together