Golden Showers Mobza: Pretending we are 17 again

[Turboyota]

January 11, 2018

From BroBroBrent:

“Today we celebrate the birth of the brokota..turboyota and the mobza were out in support .. few jump photos.”

Bad ass day!

 

[Turboyota]

More BROkota christening:

 

[Turboyota]

Mobza & BROkota spectating at the January 2018 Slash X race:

BROkota underwent a shock mount delete:

 

[Turboyota]

We found a BROkota replacement hood in the Adelanto hood like a week later. Hahahah

 

[Turboyota]

Ford 8.8 install

Items needed:
1. F150/Explorer u-bolts and spring plates
2. Beer
3. Shock tabs
4. Del Taco Bean & cheese burritos: Bold/Green
5. 1/4x4” cold rolled steel bar
6. E-brake lever from 7.5” rearend

Step 1: haphazardly strap rearend to sketchy cagework with even sketchier Harbor Freight straps.

Step 2: Support rear of truck on pipe stands and rip everything apart. Slam a couple beers. Drop rearend off floor jack, yell obscenities, and test tensile strength of stock rubber brake line. Check.

Step 3: add shock mount tabs to new beefier spring plates. Regular 3/16” thick radiused tabs fit nicely.

Step 4: Bolt up 8.8. We shortened the u-bolts by 1”.

Step 5: Rotate shackle hanger to allow more droop. Since we utilized eBay $40 drop shackles, they hit the stock hanger if it’s not clocked to allow more droop. Apply metal glue. Drink more beer. The hanger rotation netted another 1-1.5” of droop travel. The esteemed Mobza now boasts 17.5” of rear sikgnar travel, brah.

(Note: an expensive fancy boomerang shackle would negate the need to clock the hanger. Fuck expensive shackles—we have beer and a metal glue gun)

Step 6: Modify e-brake bracketry.

Cut the end off this chingadera:

And weld it to this other chingadera so the ranger/Mobza stock e-brake cable will fit:

Step 7: Ghetto-drop the brake line bracket

Step 8: The new-and-improved sickgnar droop travel allowed the driveshaft to hit the gas tank support cross member. Plasma cut some clearance into that bitch like so:

Bump-formed some 1/4x4” cold rolled bar to strengthen the cross member

Weld aforementioned bump-formed plate whilst proudly displaying my beer gut.
Look at me being all safe and shit! Actually sporting my welding leathers!

And the completed Step 8 results:

Step 9: Test. Brent got stuck, and did a peg-leg burnout which leads me to believe the rearend doesn’t have a limited slip differential device. @h0runner was feeling sick after the German Food we partook of for lunch. My give-a-fuck-less driving style elicited an emesis episode from Horunner after we unstuck the Mobza.

The Mobza started leaking coolant after Brent tried to clearance some of the coolant lines by the throttle body. We think he cracked one of the lines trying to get more pink crossbrace clearance.

Bro tip: if you don’t want metal chips to fall into an area that you’re drilling and tapping, (like coolant passages), coat the drill bit and tap in sticky wheel bearing grease so it’ll catch all the chips.

I tapped that hole with 1/8NPT, slapped in a brass barbed firing with permatex thread sealant, slammed a Keystone light, and the Mobza was good-to-go.

Time: 3.5 hours
Beers: 8
Snacks: Del Taco bold bean burritos
Tools used: Miller 210 mig welder, SWAG press brake, 4.5” grinder, air angle grinder, plasma cutter, bandsaw, Earthquake impact gun, various hand tools
Materials: 1/4” plate, 3/16” radius tabs, brake fluid
PPE: intermittent safety glasses use, welding leathers, welding gloves
Music: Metallica, Megadeth, Iron Maiden, Reel Big Fish, and Slayer
Fucks yelled: only a couple
Injuries: few burns from welding/plasma cutting

 

[Turboyota]

X

 

[Turboyota]

X

 

[Turboyota]

April 24, 2018

On BroBroBroBrent’s morning dirt commute to work, the FagTech spindle left the chat.

Chase Rouse to the rescue.

There I am: taking care of business! Pulled the golden shower mobile back onto the road.

AAA chase showed up and pitted Brent.

 

[Turboyota]

B-rent scored a Blitzkrieg LT kit on RDC!

He cut off the old bumpstop mounts and installed that fucking kit in the dirt like a peasant.

 

[Class5Cole]

Yeah... Only a matter of time before my same spindle meets the same fate

 

[blue oval]

Yeah... Only a matter of time before my same spindle meets the same fate

Fabtech spindles never break...

 

[Turboyota]

September 4, 2018

Cut holes in the cab. Removed the seat mount and sheet metal above the rear window. I plan to land the C-Pillar on top of the frame so it will not interfere with future link mounts.
B-Pillar will land on the floor tube that will follow the bottom of the door, then continue as a short tube down to the side of the frame.
A-Pillar will land forward of the body mount. I am going to retain most of the stock cab structure above the doors.

Remove everything

Cut LARGE holes in the floor so there is ample room for welding.

A-Pillar holes are kinda hard to see:

Drilled out all the spot welds on the seat mount and threw it across the shop. Yelled profanity. Brent used a 7/16” drill bit. One of those fancy spot weld driller-outers is on my shopping list.

Drilled holes in the back of the cab after carefully laying out where they will go.

 

[Turboyota]

September 8, 2018

I made a quickie tube bending protractor for 1.75 tube bent on a 5.5” centerline radius. Mittler Bros wants $136 for theirs.
Fuck.
That.
It took me less than 30 minutes to make this one.

Materials:
18ga steel
5/16 bolt & wing nut

Tools:
IR pistol grip pneumatic shear(I fucking hate that thing)
Scribe
Center punch
Machinist Dividers
Machinist 24” rule
Dykem
Bandsaw
20” Disc sander

Laid out the first half:

Scribed second one, then cut it out on the bandsaw with final tuneup on the disc sander.

 

[Turboyota]

September 8, 2018

Made the A-Pillar and dash tube.

Ice teas: 8
Time: 6 hours
Expletives yelled: fairly low key. Less than 10 probably
Music: Dropkick Murphys, Flogging Molly, and Pennywise
Footwear: flip flops
Lunch: Del Taco Family pack

Dash tube was a challenge; and it might need additional tuning. I am trying to retain defrost and all the stock dash mounting locations. We had the dash in-n-out tally up to 8!!!

Removed the windows. Taped over the credit score-lowering sticky black stuff.

Safety first, per usual.

A-Pillar is mitered at the dash tube junction.

A-pillar hits the frame forward of the body mount. Tube will be welded flush to the body mount as well as the frame.

 

[Turboyota]

September 18, 2018

Time: 1.75 hours
Music: Pantera, Iron Maiden, Slayer, Metallica
Materials; 1.75x0.120W 4130 Tube, 1/8” 4130 plate
Footwear: construction/concrete laborer steel toed boots? What the fuck??!
Safety Eyewear: Check. What the hell is going on here?!
Drinks: Still no Booze.


Bent both A-Pillars. Made sure to leave the printed 4130 markings visible so Brent can bring all the BROs to the yard with his sikkk chromo cage, brah.

I think Brent has a crush on me. Fuckin’ Fag. Or maybe he just wanted to document a fleeting instance where I adorned myself with safety glasses AND safety footwear.

Welded bulkheads where the upper A-Pillar miters into the lower A-Pillar that goes through the floor to the frame forward of the body mount.

Canted that bitch toward vehicle centerline and welded 360.

Fitment is pretty tight. I hammered in the internal cab sheetmetal a little bit to clear the 45~ish degree bend at the top of the windshield.

Brent made a couple 3/16” frame doubler plates. No pics of those. But Brent actually did make something. Bravo Brent, Bravo.

 

[Turboyota]

Sept 30, 2018

C-Pillars, floor tubes, rear window tubes, and one of the B-Pillars.

Bottom of C-Pillar & floor tube intersection

Annnnnnd I burned up a Ryobi 1/2” hammerdrill. I have destroyed 2X DeWalt 1/2” hammerdrills within the last 3 years as well.

Actual flames can be seen through the vents in the side of the drill:

 

[Turboyota]

Sept 30, 2018 continued

Better picture of the c-pillar frame landing

Upper windshield tube

B-Pillar welds directly to the body for approximately 8”

I fucked up and had to lengthen this floor tube. So I sleeved it, plug welded it in 8 places and filled the gap with a small section of tube.

BroBroBroBrent had the foresight to suggest that we space the floor tubes 1/4” off the floor so he can reinstall the carpet and plastic trim pieces at the bottom if the door. I thought it was a splendid idea.

Through the firewall and the core support: all mitered with tig welded easter egg bulkheads at the miter joints.

 

[Turboyota]

October 4 2018

Coors heavies: 3
Sips of fireball: 3
Hours: 4.5
Tubes completed: 5
Cut out the frame for upper A-arm droop clearance. 17.5” travel.
Swapped in the F31’s. Rear feels softer.

 

[Turboyota]

October 8, 2018

WhiteTrashKyle & BroBroBroBrent cut off the RuffStuff coilover mounts that lived on the truck for 22 months. There was no evidence of fatigue cracking—It was an effective budget solution for a single shock application.
Grinding wheels consumed: 2
Chinee Prasma Cuttel erectlodes consumed: 1
Expletives yelled: I only heard a few
Time: 3 hours. A hot, sparky, hand-crampy festival of suck.

—————————————————-

While those bastards slaved away cutting that shit off, I made a bunch of the diagonal cage lacing tubes from 1.5x0.120” 1020 DOM.

Hours: 8
Discrete tubes made: 8
Tubes I had to remake because I fucked up and cut ‘em too short: 2
The above incompetence promoted me to blaspheme our lord and savior a couple times....

I welded all the joints that would subsequently be covered with tube nodes:
B-Pillar to roof junction:

Then C-Pillar roof junction and window bottom tube:

Used BFH and ratchet straps to pound/coax the puzzle of diagonal lacing tubes in.

B-Pillar to frame stubs:
3/16” thick 4x4” frame doubler plates

I will TIG these ‘lil puppies on the bench:

 

[Turboyota]

October 19, 2018

Made the roof diagonal tubes. 1.5x0.120” DOM for those hookers.