Anybody have tips for regearing?

[95_Bluwhale]

Looking for tips or special tools needed I’ve done my 8.8 but that was just swapping housings when I bent it. I’ll be going from the 3.55 to 4.56s on the bronco and need some help/advice especially. I do feel comfortable enough tackling the job especially with shop hourly rates.

 

[RMC]

Centerline of pinion will be marked on pinion. I have took that is helpful I’ve only used 2x, what axles or diff would be first question?
If 8.8 keep same shins both sides and used solid pinion spacer kit

 

[RMC]

Tool*

 

[RMC]

https://www.amazon.com/Machine-Products-11001-Deluxe-Checker/dp/B003OU2DXU

 

[RMC]

This guy. It helps.

 

[Matt67ss]

Extra crush sleeves, a press, bearing puller, thread locker, torque wrench, dial torque wrench and dial indicator are what I’ve used to do 8.8 rebuilds/gears. Also if using the stock carrier make sure the gears will fit some brands do not fit.

 

[RMC]

No crush sleeves. Solid pinion spacers only or when you land from a jump or whoop your pinion will be clunking. Measure it right. Directions in the box. Solid pinion spacers is the only way to go if it’s Offroad gear. Street car sure crush sleeve is fine but 39 in tires crush, crush sleeves. I’d say 35” and above for personal experience. 33” never had an issue with crush sleeves.

 

[RMC]

Dont mind me im nobody but id like to save some head ache if possible.

 

[RMC]

Just an fyi 8.8 and bronco front dogs can be squeezed in a press to fit shim stack in vs special tools.

 

[95_Bluwhale]

Centerline of pinion will be marked on pinion. I have took that is helpful I’ve only used 2x, what axles or diff would be first question?
If 8.8 keep same shins both sides and used solid pinion spacer kit

8.8 and D44 TTB

No crush sleeves. Solid pinion spacers only or when you land from a jump or whoop your pinion will be clunking. Measure it right. Directions in the box. Solid pinion spacers is the only way to go if it’s Offroad gear. Street car sure crush sleeve is fine but 39 in tires crush, crush sleeves. I’d say 35” and above for personal experience. 33” never had an issue with crush sleeves.

Probably check out the spacer that’s sounds way easier than a crush sleeve I’ve overdone one last time and that whole ordeal was not fun

Just an fyi 8.8 and bronco front dogs can be squeezed in a press to fit shim stack in vs special tools.

don’t have a press , just an old bearing, spacer, and hammer

Extra crush sleeves, a press, bearing puller, thread locker, torque wrench, dial torque wrench and dial indicator are what I’ve used to do 8.8 rebuilds/gears. Also if using the stock carrier make sure the gears will fit some brands do not fit.

Still trying to see what carrier I need haven’t looked into it

 

[Cameronswmp9]

Use your old bearings as set up bearings. After you press them off your old stuff, Dremel them out some so it's not exactly a press fit anymore. This way there's no chance of hurting new bearings with the press if they have to go on and off again. Last time I set it up slightly loose so the new bearings took up the slack, but it's been a few years so I can't say particular measurements.

Also, start with the measurements in place (using the old shims as a guide) it usually lands you pretty close.

 

[RMC]

8.8 and D44 TTB

Probably check out the spacer that’s sounds way easier than a crush sleeve I’ve overdone one last time and that whole ordeal was not fun

don’t have a press , just an old bearing, spacer, and hammer

Still trying to see what carrier I need haven’t looked into it

Might want to go to harbor freight and buy 20 ton press. The d44 front diff is a whole lot easier to slide the ring gear shims in place if you put some pressure top to bottom on the case. In both cases you can tap them in with a baller and plastic punch just make sure when you take it apart keep left stack and right stack separate. Measure whole stack and mark which side they came from. Slide back in accordingly. For both the 8.8 and d44 cases those shims have already been set up for centerline of each case. They will get you very close. Only variation will be ring gear thickness which will requiring removing from one side and adding to the other once you check the lash.
But I’m getting ahead of myself, install the pinion with old nut and an impact. Measure rotational resistance with inch pound torque wrench. Add or subtract solid spacer shim as needed to get correct rotational resistance. Measure previous crush sleeve to get a starting point. Use solid spacer shim and needed shims to get to same height as original and measure rotational resistance. You will want to use beam type not click type on both for pinion preload.
Backlash is checked on ring gear with plunge indicatior and is usually .009-.013 thousandths but read the information that came with the gears for specifics.
The. Mark gears with gear marking compound and read pattern.

 

[RMC]

Hammer*

 

[Tree trunk]

https://a.co/d/8vfmLZL

-This is the carrier you need for the 4.56 gears in the Dana 44. Or it’s the one I used anyways.
- I used the grizzly locker for the rear so that replaced the carrier unit for the 8.8.

I attempted the regear but ended up taking it to have some one set it up.
Good on you for going for it

 

[95_Bluwhale]

https://a.co/d/8vfmLZL

-This is the carrier you need for the 4.56 gears in the Dana 44. Or it’s the one I used anyways.
- I used the grizzly locker for the rear so that replaced the carrier unit for the 8.8.

I attempted the regear but ended up taking it to have some one set it up.
Good on you for going for it

I was looking at that exact one and my whole truck is just me winging it from learning to weld, wire and troubleshoot I just used every possible source of info I can

 

[SByota]

Take your time and don’t be afraid to do it over and over again. I think people’s biggest mistake is getting frustrated after trying 23 different shims combos and just saying “close enough” and putting it together.

Start with whatever shims the diff had in it and work form there. Usually you have to overshoot the pinion depth a little to then work back to the “perfect” pattern.

The most simple explanation is, the pinion depth sets the pattern. The carrier shims set the backlash and carrier preload. You and SLIGHTLY tweak the pattern with the backlash, but that’s an advanced skill.

Carl Jantz had a good explanation of pattern changes vs shim changes.

https://youtu.be/nVb5WRUfM7Y?si=psFULeqeozFBvDAP

I am your basic garage mechanic and have set up several of my own diffs and nothing has exploded yet. Front “clamshell” Toyota diffs are terrible! Be grateful you are not doing one.

 

[kazkadaz]

the front dana 44 is somewhat of a paint as there are 3 points of adjustment on it, the 8.8 was easier, some special tools and a lot of patience, lots of it.

 

[BobbyHasARustyBronco]

Take your time and don’t be afraid to do it over and over again. I think people’s biggest mistake is getting frustrated after trying 23 different shims combos and just saying “close enough” and putting it together.

That's me driving around with a noisy diff for the last 5 years regretting I even tried