2011 3.5 Fraptor

[Cleandezert]

What gen is that raptor for? If its 2 you could grab some foutz/khc/tsw towers and run the gen 2 shocks to squeeze out some more travel

its a gen 1... well really a 2011 f150 not a real raptor.

 

[RadoNoah]

its a gen 1... well really a 2011 f150 not a real raptor.

Sorry, i didnt proof read my post. i ment what years was the BMS kit for, gen1 raptors share the strut tower as all the f150’s. The gen 2+ have a taller shock tower. From my understanding you can run something like this

https://www.shoptswaz.com/products/...-1-f150-2010-2014?_pos=1&_sid=aefaf4b8d&_ss=r

And that would allow you to run the 2017+ raptor replacement shocks which are iirc are 2” longer with a longer stroke

 

[LoganB]

You’ve been around long enough to know it’s gonna add up way fast to beam this thing, especially wanting to pay a shop. Like said before, this truck deserves quality work, and that ain’t cheap.

Definitely tig welds, nice box, nice hubs and brakes. I think Mitch makes a kit for these generation trucks, not 100% though. His other wiy kits are in the 3500-4k range though. Depending what shop does it, even at the absolute lowest rate, I’d imagine you’ll be in the thousands just to weld the entire kit and steering up. That’s gonna be in the 5-6k right there. I’m thinking used shocks 3500-4k if you’re going bypass as well. You’re hovering close to that 10k number already, and you haven’t even gotten into the custom fab hours, or got material yet, or bought the rest of the parts. Open your purse cause it would be sick.

Do it.

 

[UR_Mawm69]

 

[84Prerunner]

to get a good set of beams setup correctly with nice steering, hubs, brakes, shocks, ram, steering box etc I’m betting it would be $30k+ all said and done installed.

 

[Cleandezert]

to get a good set of beams setup correctly with nice steering, hubs, brakes, shocks, ram, steering box etc I’m betting it would be $30k+ all said and done installed.

think i just threw up some...
although think i could possibly save some money... i have ram assist now and a box, so could reuse that... and if i could sell my current shit for 10k, that means i only need 20k.

Because i am so out of the game, anyone make hubs that use stock f150 bolt pattern?

 

[troysladeck]

Apples to oranges forsure… a full size f150 would need built parts where I was able to go oem for lots of things, but i just d44 ttb swapped my XJ for $6k ALL IN (~$4k after selling the solid axle stuff) with working 4wd. Pretty much sourced everything big off marketplace and I also did all the fab work and just paid a welder since I suck at welding.

Hollander’s universal TTB crossmember and some cho beams would be insane

 

[Cleandezert]

Apples to oranges forsure… a full size f150 would need built parts where I was able to go oem for lots of things, but i just d44 ttb swapped my XJ for $6k ALL IN (~$4k after selling the solid axle stuff) with working 4wd. Pretty much sourced everything big off marketplace and I also did all the fab work and just paid a welder since I suck at welding.

Hollander’s universal TTB crossmember and some cho beams would be insane

I have spent years building stuff, but at my age i dont have the time or desire.... and big elephant in the room, the skill to tig weld and make it as clean as the rest of the truck. Such is life though. Guess the hardest thing is to realize that having someone build you stuff costs WAY more than doing it yourself. lol 30K for a front kit on a truck worth only 30K. lol

 

[84Prerunner]

How much travel does it pull currently? What shock package?

 

[Cleandezert]

How much travel does it pull currently? What shock package?

13" blitz mid travel kit, stock buckets with a 8" stroke 3.0 coilover bypass.

My other thought and option is to cut out stock buckets and put a more traditional coilover/bypass in there and hope to get 16-17". Guess more of an f150 guy question... but i have have these long shafts to clear axles which i dont have... can i run a traditional coilover? Or do i still need these huge stand offs?

this option is likely way cheaper, but not as fun. lol

 

[blueherron96]

The factory replacement gen 1 kings that you have are only 6.69" stroke. You can cut the shock buckets out and replace with conversion buckets to run a gen 2 raptor coilover. The gen 2 Fox FRS coilovers are a true 8" stroke with 7.85" of usable stroke. This will get you to the advertised 15" of travel. I know for a fact that the blitz kit with gen 1 foxes will pull just over 14".

You could also go to 10" stroke shocks. Or even put a long travel kit on with 12" stroke shocks. You already have swing set steering with new crossmembers so cutting all that off for beams doesn't really make sense to me. Not really sure what you expect to gain when you already have a solid base for an a arm build.

 

[the bodj]

You can get the DIY file to give your builder a big headstart

https://www.diyoffroad.com/fullsize...clip-with-1-25-rod-end-beams-607-jeh-011.html

Or you guy a-la-cart order files if you don't want to ditch the frame section.

13" blitz mid travel kit, stock buckets with a 8" stroke 3.0 coilover bypass.

My other thought and option is to cut out stock buckets and put a more traditional coilover/bypass in there and hope to get 16-17". Guess more of an f150 guy question... but i have have these long shafts to clear axles which i dont have... can i run a traditional coilover? Or do i still need these huge stand offs?

this option is likely way cheaper, but not as fun. lol

Looks like your kit can pull 15", but I don't know if that's bumped/strapped. I don't know if your kit was spec'd with the optional bypass mount.
https://blitzkriegoffroad.com/products/gen-1-2-3-raptor-bolt-on-mid-travel-kit

As far as the standard length rod ends, I think you'll need some sort of extended length rod end to clear the lower shock mount pocket, especially with the increased droop you'll be getting. Whoever your builder is will be able to add some taper to those lower shock pockets and plate it back in so you can clear shorter length rod ends/the coil hardware. Then just have the lower arms re-powder coated and Bob's your uncle.

That said, I still vote for beams. I've never been in an a-armed truck that is as plush and comfortable as beams, even with the same travel. They always have an initial harshness to them

 

[84Prerunner]

I’d be very interested in seeing how that front end cycles with the shocks removed. I rode in a super crew with 14” of travel (bumped and strapped) on 40s with a 3.0 bypass, 2.5 coilover and 2.5 bump. I was blown away what it was capable of.

If a bigger shock packed would fit abd you could gain 2-3” of travel I’m sure it would be a game changer

 

[Cleandezert]

I’d be very interested in seeing how that front end cycles with the shocks removed. I rode in a super crew with 14” of travel (bumped and strapped) on 40s with a 3.0 bypass, 2.5 coilover and 2.5 bump. I was blown away what it was capable of.

If a bigger shock packed would fit abd you could gain 2-3” of travel I’m sure it would be a game changer

i am interested too, but dont have the room or knowledge of a arms to really make that call. I have talked to a few people about paying them to cycle it and see if it will pull what i want and what my options are prior to cutting it apart and spending money.

 

[Drew]

I agree with keeping a-arms because of the existing swing set setup. Never seen anyone run a 10” or 12” stroke shock with any of the mid-travel kit arms, would be interesting.

That said if you do decide on beams and need to unload some of those swing set steering parts, send me a DM lol.

 

[DialedShockPrep]

i am interested too, but dont have the room or knowledge of a arms to really make that call. I have talked to a few people about paying them to cycle it and see if it will pull what i want and what my options are prior to cutting it apart and spending money.

Bring the truck over, I’ll do that for you.
Realistically, the 09+ F150’s and raptors have some of the worst front ends out there geometry wise, next to Tundras and some Tacomas. And i mean that in a sense of up and down movements limits, not camber/caster/toe. Wide wide frame, short stubby arms, low ground clearance, and a lot of front weight means they need a ton of spring rate and valving, they don’t cycle much, and like to plow. Combine that with the flat rear frame sections and in order to have a good working truck, it needs to sit stinkbug. HRD has one of the best mid travel kits out there and their shop truck works really well, but it definitely has its downfalls. Any F150-Raptor in that year range lacks up travel in the rear and it’s hard to get them to work correctly on anything more than medium sized stuff.

With all that said, TTB’s are for sure the way to go but it will not be cheap or easy. I would talk to richer and Cho about scanning the front section of your frame, and having them design a new front rail section that narrows to support their TTB setup. For reference a good friend of mine just finished his Ohcho/Richer TTB swapped Silverado and was over 30k into it with some drivetrain upgrades. He did go full kill on it with fabricated everything, twin stick Atlas, RCV axles, etc etc, so it can be done for less but I’d still budget at least 25k assuming you can get someone to make the front clip a laser file and it isn’t all custom in the sense of hand cut one off.

 

[Oh4Tahoe]

Bring the truck over, I’ll do that for you.
Realistically, the 09+ F150’s and raptors have some of the worst front ends out there geometry wise, next to Tundras and some Tacomas. And i mean that in a sense of up and down movements limits, not camber/caster/toe. Wide wide frame, short stubby arms, low ground clearance, and a lot of front weight means they need a ton of spring rate and valving, they don’t cycle much, and like to plow. Combine that with the flat rear frame sections and in order to have a good working truck, it needs to sit stinkbug. HRD has one of the best mid travel kits out there and their shop truck works really well, but it definitely has its downfalls. Any F150-Raptor in that year range lacks up travel in the rear and it’s hard to get them to work correctly on anything more than medium sized stuff.

With all that said, TTB’s are for sure the way to go but it will not be cheap or easy. I would talk to richer and Cho about scanning the front section of your frame, and having them design a new front rail section that narrows to support their TTB setup. For reference a good friend of mine just finished his Ohcho/Richer TTB swapped Silverado and was over 30k into it with some drivetrain upgrades. He did go full kill on it with fabricated everything, twin stick Atlas, RCV axles, etc etc, so it can be done for less but I’d still budget at least 25k assuming you can get someone to make the front clip a laser file and it isn’t all custom in the sense of hand cut one off.

Had been throwing the idea of TTB around on my 04 Tahoe, so he was $30k in it. Did he do it himself or pay to have it done?

 

[Cleandezert]

Bring the truck over, I’ll do that for you.
Realistically, the 09+ F150’s and raptors have some of the worst front ends out there geometry wise, next to Tundras and some Tacomas. And i mean that in a sense of up and down movements limits, not camber/caster/toe. Wide wide frame, short stubby arms, low ground clearance, and a lot of front weight means they need a ton of spring rate and valving, they don’t cycle much, and like to plow. Combine that with the flat rear frame sections and in order to have a good working truck, it needs to sit stinkbug. HRD has one of the best mid travel kits out there and their shop truck works really well, but it definitely has its downfalls. Any F150-Raptor in that year range lacks up travel in the rear and it’s hard to get them to work correctly on anything more than medium sized stuff.

With all that said, TTB’s are for sure the way to go but it will not be cheap or easy. I would talk to richer and Cho about scanning the front section of your frame, and having them design a new front rail section that narrows to support their TTB setup. For reference a good friend of mine just finished his Ohcho/Richer TTB swapped Silverado and was over 30k into it with some drivetrain upgrades. He did go full kill on it with fabricated everything, twin stick Atlas, RCV axles, etc etc, so it can be done for less but I’d still budget at least 25k assuming you can get someone to make the front clip a laser file and it isn’t all custom in the sense of hand cut one off.

We might need to chat soon and willing to pay for your time to look into things…

Also you may not have seen, Cho and Jonny are making a ttb set up for Jonny 4wd 2011 f150 right now.

 

[2012SVTSC]

Other direction would be to look into having the stock coilbuckets cut out, and do new shock hoops and try and pull some more travel out of the blitz mid travel kit. Love some of your guys thoughts and suggestions.

I would go with this option. 2wd, cycle it and fit shocks.

With the shocks removed from the equation, the first thing that will limit your travel will be the 4WD, but if you go 2WD...

Then normally the upper arm outer ball joint would limit you, but you have that kit with vertical uniballs, so that is basically unlimited.

Those are the normal inhibitors without the shocks installed. So if you install a new hoop and proper shocks, you will be able to pull a lot more travel. Your last limiter will be the upper A-arm contacting the new coilover in droop.

My estimate would be in the 17"+ range.

Which in my opinion would be a good fit with the spring under you have.

I feel like if you do custom beams and start pulling 24" of front travel you and going to have to link it or something

 

[DialedShockPrep]

Had been throwing the idea of TTB around on my 04 Tahoe, so he was $30k in it. Did he do it himself or pay to have it done?

He paid Richer/Cho to do the work. They basically finalized all of the fab and everything and he tore it all apart for final assembly, coating, and the small stuff like brake lines and such. He’s into it all about 45k with a new Moruzzi motor, Atlas, floater rear end, etc etc.