Cleandezert
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its a gen 1... well really a 2011 f150 not a real raptor.
2011 3.5 Fraptor
- Thread starter Cleandezert
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RadoNoah
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Sorry, i didnt proof read my post. i ment what years was the BMS kit for, gen1 raptors share the strut tower as all the f150’s. The gen 2+ have a taller shock tower. From my understanding you can run something like this
https://www.shoptswaz.com/products/...-1-f150-2010-2014?_pos=1&_sid=aefaf4b8d&_ss=r
And that would allow you to run the 2017+ raptor replacement shocks which are iirc are 2” longer with a longer stroke
You’ve been around long enough to know it’s gonna add up way fast to beam this thing, especially wanting to pay a shop. Like said before, this truck deserves quality work, and that ain’t cheap.
Definitely tig welds, nice box, nice hubs and brakes. I think Mitch makes a kit for these generation trucks, not 100% though. His other wiy kits are in the 3500-4k range though. Depending what shop does it, even at the absolute lowest rate, I’d imagine you’ll be in the thousands just to weld the entire kit and steering up. That’s gonna be in the 5-6k right there. I’m thinking used shocks 3500-4k if you’re going bypass as well. You’re hovering close to that 10k number already, and you haven’t even gotten into the custom fab hours, or got material yet, or bought the rest of the parts. Open your purse cause it would be sick.
Do it.
Definitely tig welds, nice box, nice hubs and brakes. I think Mitch makes a kit for these generation trucks, not 100% though. His other wiy kits are in the 3500-4k range though. Depending what shop does it, even at the absolute lowest rate, I’d imagine you’ll be in the thousands just to weld the entire kit and steering up. That’s gonna be in the 5-6k right there. I’m thinking used shocks 3500-4k if you’re going bypass as well. You’re hovering close to that 10k number already, and you haven’t even gotten into the custom fab hours, or got material yet, or bought the rest of the parts. Open your purse cause it would be sick.
Do it.
Last edited:
UR_Mawm69
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84Prerunner
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to get a good set of beams setup correctly with nice steering, hubs, brakes, shocks, ram, steering box etc I’m betting it would be $30k+ all said and done installed.
Cleandezert
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think i just threw up some...
although think i could possibly save some money... i have ram assist now and a box, so could reuse that... and if i could sell my current shit for 10k, that means i only need 20k.
Because i am so out of the game, anyone make hubs that use stock f150 bolt pattern?
troysladeck
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Apples to oranges forsure… a full size f150 would need built parts where I was able to go oem for lots of things, but i just d44 ttb swapped my XJ for $6k ALL IN (~$4k after selling the solid axle stuff) with working 4wd. Pretty much sourced everything big off marketplace and I also did all the fab work and just paid a welder since I suck at welding.
Hollander’s universal TTB crossmember and some cho beams would be insane
Hollander’s universal TTB crossmember and some cho beams would be insane
Cleandezert
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I have spent years building stuff, but at my age i dont have the time or desire.... and big elephant in the room, the skill to tig weld and make it as clean as the rest of the truck. Such is life though. Guess the hardest thing is to realize that having someone build you stuff costs WAY more than doing it yourself. lol 30K for a front kit on a truck worth only 30K. lolApples to oranges forsure… a full size f150 would need built parts where I was able to go oem for lots of things, but i just d44 ttb swapped my XJ for $6k ALL IN (~$4k after selling the solid axle stuff) with working 4wd. Pretty much sourced everything big off marketplace and I also did all the fab work and just paid a welder since I suck at welding.
Hollander’s universal TTB crossmember and some cho beams would be insane
84Prerunner
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How much travel does it pull currently? What shock package?
Cleandezert
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13" blitz mid travel kit, stock buckets with a 8" stroke 3.0 coilover bypass.
My other thought and option is to cut out stock buckets and put a more traditional coilover/bypass in there and hope to get 16-17". Guess more of an f150 guy question... but i have have these long shafts to clear axles which i dont have... can i run a traditional coilover? Or do i still need these huge stand offs?
this option is likely way cheaper, but not as fun. lol
blueherron96
Member
The factory replacement gen 1 kings that you have are only 6.69" stroke. You can cut the shock buckets out and replace with conversion buckets to run a gen 2 raptor coilover. The gen 2 Fox FRS coilovers are a true 8" stroke with 7.85" of usable stroke. This will get you to the advertised 15" of travel. I know for a fact that the blitz kit with gen 1 foxes will pull just over 14".
You could also go to 10" stroke shocks. Or even put a long travel kit on with 12" stroke shocks. You already have swing set steering with new crossmembers so cutting all that off for beams doesn't really make sense to me. Not really sure what you expect to gain when you already have a solid base for an a arm build.
You could also go to 10" stroke shocks. Or even put a long travel kit on with 12" stroke shocks. You already have swing set steering with new crossmembers so cutting all that off for beams doesn't really make sense to me. Not really sure what you expect to gain when you already have a solid base for an a arm build.
the bodj
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You can get the DIY file to give your builder a big headstart
https://www.diyoffroad.com/fullsize...clip-with-1-25-rod-end-beams-607-jeh-011.html
Or you guy a-la-cart order files if you don't want to ditch the frame section.
Looks like your kit can pull 15", but I don't know if that's bumped/strapped. I don't know if your kit was spec'd with the optional bypass mount.
https://blitzkriegoffroad.com/products/gen-1-2-3-raptor-bolt-on-mid-travel-kit
As far as the standard length rod ends, I think you'll need some sort of extended length rod end to clear the lower shock mount pocket, especially with the increased droop you'll be getting. Whoever your builder is will be able to add some taper to those lower shock pockets and plate it back in so you can clear shorter length rod ends/the coil hardware. Then just have the lower arms re-powder coated and Bob's your uncle.
That said, I still vote for beams. I've never been in an a-armed truck that is as plush and comfortable as beams, even with the same travel. They always have an initial harshness to them
https://www.diyoffroad.com/fullsize...clip-with-1-25-rod-end-beams-607-jeh-011.html
Or you guy a-la-cart order files if you don't want to ditch the frame section.
Looks like your kit can pull 15", but I don't know if that's bumped/strapped. I don't know if your kit was spec'd with the optional bypass mount.
https://blitzkriegoffroad.com/products/gen-1-2-3-raptor-bolt-on-mid-travel-kit
As far as the standard length rod ends, I think you'll need some sort of extended length rod end to clear the lower shock mount pocket, especially with the increased droop you'll be getting. Whoever your builder is will be able to add some taper to those lower shock pockets and plate it back in so you can clear shorter length rod ends/the coil hardware. Then just have the lower arms re-powder coated and Bob's your uncle.
That said, I still vote for beams. I've never been in an a-armed truck that is as plush and comfortable as beams, even with the same travel. They always have an initial harshness to them
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