Local Legend Vital Designs Regular Cab Ranger

[Baconcreekmetal]

Great idea with the hair clip to clamp the wires together. That'll save me a ton of zip ties.

 

[FasterNU]

Yea, gonna raychem it and do boots?

 

[RW81]

What are you going to use for loom material once the wiring is complete?

I ordered 2ft of every wrap prowire sells to see what I like. Doing insultherm at the exhaust portion and then probably just some like f6 split loom

Great idea with the hair clip to clamp the wires together. That'll save me a ton of zip ties.

Yea I remembered at the end haha. Having different colored zip ties helps, Walmart sells this bottle with white black green and yellow zip ties so they work good with cutting wires and marking for splices etc. I’ve probably used over 500 already haha

Yea, gonna raychem it and do boots?

I used TXL wire and the recovery temp for Dr-25 can make it sketchy. Plus it shrinks and you can see all the spaghetti wire if you didn’t concentric wrap and all that gucci bs haha. I do have boots coming for the plugs today

Edit: boots came like 5 mins after posting. Should tie it all together nicely

 

[2012SVTSC]

Looks sick.
One note, and maybe I'm seeing it wrong, but ideally you would have the sockets (f) as the power side of the connector. And the pins (male) on the Non-power side. Think plug in your house.

 

[RW81]

Looks sick.
One note, and maybe I'm seeing it wrong, but ideally you would have the sockets (f) as the power side of the connector. And the pins (male) on the Non-power side. Think plug in your house.

I think that’s how I have it setup? The idea is leave the male side with the pins on the stationary plug that stays at the rear wall, if the pins were on the removable harness side you’re dragging around male pins that are sticking out with a chance for failure. Female side is on the removable end

 

[2012SVTSC]

I think that’s how I have it setup? The idea is leave the male side with the pins on the stationary plug that stays at the rear wall, if the pins were on the removable harness side you’re dragging around male pins that are sticking out with a chance for failure. Female side is on the removable end

Copy yeah that makes sense, I was just referring to: if you disconnect the connector, the side with the male pins should have no power. This way it's harder to short. Honestly it not a functional thing just something to think about.

Like I mentioned you wouldn't want your house to have "prongs" sticking out of the wall and the toster to have a socket, that's the principle, it's also carried over in automotive wireing for the most part as well IE why the ECU has pins ... because the power goes to it so they can't short.

 

[RW81]

Also any input on wiring is appreciated! By no means am I an expert or anything lol

 

[RW81]

Copy yeah that makes sense, I was just referring to: if you disconnect the connector, the side with the male pins should have no power. This way it's harder to short. Honestly it not a functional thing just something to think about.

Like I mentioned you wouldn't want your house to have "prongs" sticking out of the wall and the toster to have a socket, that's the principle, it's also carried over in automotive wireing for the most part as well IE why the ECU has pins ... because the power goes to it so they can't short.

Honestly shorting has never even crossed my mind so I appreciate that. The truck will have a battery cut off switch that I would switch off before I mess with anything electrical, like a house.

 

[2012SVTSC]

Honestly shorting has never even crossed my mind so I appreciate that. The truck will have a battery cut off switch that I would switch off before I mess with anything electrical, like a house.

Yeah man as you the builder/driver/owner I am pretty sure you will have zero issues either way!

 

[marcytech]

Stoked to see more wiring progress. Wiring is something I love doin but have had no formal training on so I really enjoy seeing how things are done like this!! Good job dude

 

[FasterNU]

didnt even think about the temps to heat shrink potentially damaging wire insulation. Doh. I know on my first try I was melting some insulation on the janky ass turn signal connector pigtails I got from flea bay though!! oopsie. had to cut it back some. haha.. Wire is crap on those things for sure.

 

[RW81]

Got to removing the pins out of the plug to heat the shrink labels and put the boot on. I got all of them out in literally 5 minutes, besides these two size 12 pins it’s been probably 5 days and they haven’t moved at all.



Pictured is the plastic removal (I thought?) tools that come with the plug and then some stupid removal tool I bought on Amazon which also didn’t work. Made a post in a wiring FB group and got suggested a couple different removal tools. I just don’t understand why they would send me a removal tool with the plug that doesn’t remove. Ordered another pin removal tool but im not very confident to be honest haha. We’ll know Monday! Thinking maybe something is screwed up inside?



Ordered the same plug for the front and that tool also does nothing. I want to try a size 12 pin on the new plug but I don’t want to be stuck with two fucked up plugs so until I can get those two pins out…

Always Something!

 

[2012SVTSC]

Look up you connector on on digikey and they usually have the proper removal tools underneath in the suggested

 

[2012SVTSC]

This is probably what you need assuming that's a Deutsch connector

 

[RW81]

This is probably what you need assuming that's a Deutsch connector View attachment 20373

A couple people said these would work

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...EcJEsv8YOZ8nCOGmZql2pCBzsWEfH9pcccVdOSj7l4Epw

I ordered a couple. Says size 12 contact removal tool so I’m hoping that’s exactly what it does. I forget about digikey, I see it mentioned often for random little things

 

[2012SVTSC]

What connector do you have?

 

[RW81]

What connector do you have?

It’s an hdp20 connector. 29 way using solid contact pins. It’s a DT connector

 

[RW81]

I have slayed the demon that is the size 12 pin

 

[ChristianEwing]

This was a hurdle to overcome. Ryan and I were going back and forth on what the right direction was gonna be for the dash in the truck. From the beginning I wanted to build a dash in this thing, and Ryan was exploring the McNeil Prizm dash option. After we got further along with things on the interior, we both agreed a custom dash was probably a better option just to package everything correctly, and at that point I started second guessing it just based on the amount of work it was going to take now that it’s all said and done I’m glad this was the route we went. I’ve never done any sort of sheet metal like this before so there was a big learning curve involved, mainly with just not even knowing where a good starting point would be. I basically worked from the center of the truck and got the iPad section built out and the center console and then worked my way outwards to each side from there. I have about 3 weeks of work into this total but I enjoyed the process a lot!

The whole dash and console are made of steel, the dash is silicone bronzed to the cab of the truck to keep it completely solid and not make any noise and the console is on zues buttons to be able to run the wiring through the truck and gain access to everything needed. I can’t wait to see this all wrapped and finished out, it should look pretty gangster!

 

[Klever]

Dash came out bitchen!