Yupp bead roll aluminum panels that bolt to tabs on the cage all wrapped/glued in a suede fabric
Tflow Tacoma
- Thread starter Tflow
- Start date
Ya sold them on marketplace
Mine has 2 inch foam backing the panels to keep the noise and temps down and then I wrapped the panels in a sticky back alcantara wrap. You can get the same stuff on Amazon for like 40 bucks a sheet. One sheet will do the entire roof in a ranger.
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Nice! I did dynamat instead of foam. I had an upholstery shop wrap my panels and they put this felt material on the backside. They said it would help with insulation and noise
DesertGoat
Well-known member
that's a great idea, thanks for sharing fellas!
No problem. If you are close to the high desert I got a role left you can have for ur truck should do all a roof or a floor. Sorry for the tread jack.
I think he still sells parts but doesn’t do truck builds anymore. He’s doing more industrial/construction fabrication now. It sounded like he’s making quite a bit more money do that than the truck stuff.
Yeah every other industry outside of anything automotive is better money for sure. He's an engineer and greay at cad so using those skills in a different industry is better for the paycheck. I've known him since high school. My brither went to school with Steve since Jr high.
Alright everything is painted. Last night I started assembling and getting my alignment dialed in. Here’s what I got:
Driver side:
4.8* positive caster at droop
5* positive caster at bump
Camber is 0 at ride height
Passenger side:
4.5* positive caster at droop
4.8* positive caster at bump
Camber is negative 2.3* at ride height
Driver side:
4.8* positive caster at droop
5* positive caster at bump
Camber is 0 at ride height
Passenger side:
4.5* positive caster at droop
4.8* positive caster at bump
Camber is negative 2.3* at ride height
My push for koh got as far as I expected it to. Wiring and brakes and she’ll be a runner. I knew it would have been tough to get the wiring done in time and I really didn’t want to rush it.
I had to move the fuse box forward to clear the bump stop. So I need to extend every wire about a foot. It really won’t be that bad, just tedious work. I have everything labeled nice.
All my accessories I had wired old school with toggle switches, relays, and fuse blocks. Over the years I’ve added and taken things out like different lighting setups, fans and whatever. So the accessory wiring got a little hacked up. Now that I have the lights, fans and everything else dialed in. I figured it is a good time to re do the all the wiring with a switch pros.
Took a break on the Tacoma today and prepped the camper for koh. I’m still going out there to watch and enjoy the shit show. I’ll be just switching off riding in my buddies trucks and drinking beer
I had to move the fuse box forward to clear the bump stop. So I need to extend every wire about a foot. It really won’t be that bad, just tedious work. I have everything labeled nice.
All my accessories I had wired old school with toggle switches, relays, and fuse blocks. Over the years I’ve added and taken things out like different lighting setups, fans and whatever. So the accessory wiring got a little hacked up. Now that I have the lights, fans and everything else dialed in. I figured it is a good time to re do the all the wiring with a switch pros.
Took a break on the Tacoma today and prepped the camper for koh. I’m still going out there to watch and enjoy the shit show. I’ll be just switching off riding in my buddies trucks and drinking beer
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Update on my alignment. I’ve been overthinking and worrying about this 2 degrees of negative camber on the passenger side while the driver side has 0. So I tore back into it to see if I could even it up a little bit. Well what I figured out after fighting with it for a while and getting no where is that even though the garage floor is level side to side. The truck on the jack stands is leaning 1 degree to the driver side. Do the math and that makes it out to be 1 degree negative camber on each side. Basically it was good the whole time and I’ve been fighting and worry about it the last couple nights for no reasonQuestion is should I run it? More caster? Should I worry about the negative camber on the passenger side. I have the alignment tab all the way inwards for the camber. Or do I not know what I’m doing
View attachment 33320
the_fablab_
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2022
- Messages
- 179
Rule no. 1 Zero off the chassis before you start.
Yeah I’m a dummy lol. I guess I was just figuring the chassis was level because the floor is level. Live and learn
It’s been quite the learning experience for me with this front end lol. I started to assemble everything for what I thought was the last time. The other night I go in the garage and I’m looking at the truck sitting there at full droop on the limit straps. I can’t help to notice that the front end looks toed way out. I bolt on the toe plates and it measures 2.5” out. Well shit that’s a lot of bump steer since I set the toe in a 1/8” at ride height.
Got on the phone with Steve from dirt designs and he explained how he designed the kit off the stock pivot points. From the pictures I sent him, he said I needed to lower the mounting of the tie rod end on the spindle.
Well after cutting the lower tab on my painted spindle and cycling the front end countless times with different spacers. I was able to obtain zero bump steer. So I’m stoked on that, the truck should work good with all this proper geometry. Just need to build new steering tabs on the spindles now
Got on the phone with Steve from dirt designs and he explained how he designed the kit off the stock pivot points. From the pictures I sent him, he said I needed to lower the mounting of the tie rod end on the spindle.
Well after cutting the lower tab on my painted spindle
and cycling the front end countless times with different spacers. I was able to obtain zero bump steer. So I’m stoked on that, the truck should work good with all this proper geometry. Just need to build new steering tabs on the spindles now 
the bodj
Well-known member
That’s a pain, but at least you caught it. Good work finding the sweet spot.
Also, nice bluetick! I have one that’s mixed with mountain curr
Also, nice bluetick! I have one that’s mixed with mountain curr
Thanks, I figured since I was into it this deep, I might as well take the time and see how close to zero I can get it.
His name is Moose, he’s a good dog. I don’t run into a lot people with blueticks in California
Alright, cutting and grinding is not fun. I was thinking about leaving the upper tab and only cutting and remaking the lower tab for the tie rod heim at the spindle. I would run a spacer (~1") with a longer bolt. Is this sketchy? Am I just being lazy lol
the bodj
Well-known member
I think you're fine. Rock crawler guys run much larger spacers.
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