Tflow Tacoma

[Tflow]

Little update on the Tacoma, been working on all the little stuff that takes the longest.

I reworked my storage box in the back of the truck. Pulled out an air tank I had in there that took up too much space. I replaced it with a manifold to feed the air locker solenoid and added a remote air chuck. With the added room, I put one of those Milwaukee pack-out setups, which fit in there nicely. Re-wired my batteries and added remote battery posts. Just to make it easier to jump the truck if needed or to put a trickle charger on it in the garage.

Also been cleaning up a lot of the factory wiring, tucking everything up and out of the way.

 

[Tflow]

Alright I’m not very good at this forum thing. Life and work has been busy but I have been chipping away on the truck. Tacoma is put together and running. Drove it around today and it ran and handled great. The brakes were a little squishy. My brother came over to help me bleed them. We used one of those fancy air pressure bleeders on top of the classic foot pump method. It got better but still a lot of throw in the pedal. I think I have to adjust the rod on the master cylinder.

The main deal was finishing up all the wiring. It took a while but it’s all done. Re-wired all the accessories to a switch pros. Extended the harness to relocate the fuse box. Re-wired my radios and relocated the push to talks to a more convenient spot. There was a bunch more miscellaneous wiring throughout the truck. I kept digging deeper and deeper on what I wanted to redo. It all worked out, I actually like wiring. It is just so damn time consuming.

For now I’m going to keep driving the truck around. I need to do a couple other maintenance things like gaskets, spark plugs, belt, etc. I would also like to get this thing out and shock tune it with someone that knows what they’re doing.

 

[Tflow]

Alright here’s an update. Back when I moved up to 37s on this thing, I also did a “big brake upgrade.” Well the brakes haven’t been good since. They were safe enough to use the truck, just not good. I have stoptech six piston fronts and 4 piston rears. I swapped the master to one off a sequoia, which was a bigger bore size (15/16”) and that didn’t help much. I re-bleed the brakes countless times thinking that was the problem and it never got better.

Well recently I did a deep dive on different options like different booster, manual brakes, hydroboost, etc. My problem is that I don’t have a lot of room to package a lot of it. I kinda screwed my self with the tube work. A lot people swear by hydroboost or for Tacoma guys swapping to a Tundra booster. Neither would fit and I not good enough to build some kind of cantilever system to mount the booster elsewhere.

What I ended up finding was a thread on another forum about the bosch ibooster. An electric booster that’s found on Teslas and Honda accords. Well these guys were saying that they were locking up 40s on the street in their crawler buggy’s. The master on the honda accord ibooster is a 1” bore which was bigger than the sequoia one I had. It’s also the smallest packaging option out of everything else, so I went for it.

Ordered the honda one off ebay for $120 and a wire harness kit for $70. Pretty easy install, everything bolted up in the stock positioning. I had to lengthen the rod to the pedal. I just cut the rod off the stock booster and drilled and tapped the end. Screwed it into the ibooster rod with some locktite and adjusted the stock clevis as needed. Wiring was simple as well, just a hot wire with a 40-amp fuse, a ground, and an ignition wire.

Well the results are this truck stops better than it ever has. It will definitely lock up the tires on the street. The pedal also feels great, just like a stock vehicle. I think this is a great option for guys wanting to do brake upgrades. Simple and fairly inexpensive.

 

[the_fablab_]

Very cool! I might have to try this one day soon

 

[Tflow]

Also I just did some driveshaft upgrades. The stock rubber center support bearing was blown out. I decided to get the fancy billet one from mitchmade. This kind of started a snow ball lol. With the mitchmade center support, I had a decent vibration. I took the drive shaft to a local guy and he started to show me this flange he makes that can run a 1350 u-joint and attach to the toyota third member. Well since I’m running an atlas transfer case with 1350 yokes, we decided to swap the whole driveshaft to 1350. That way I have stronger setup and can carry one spare. Before I was running 1350/1310 conversion and 1310 u-joints. I also added a drive shaft loop while I was at it.