MFing Tundra

[Mullen]

It was hot as hell Saturday, but I managed to make decent progress. The floor tubes and tie-ins to the frame are wrapped up on both sides, as well as both B-pillars. I couldn't get the triangulation done for the driver's side, but will get it done on the next fab day. My company gives us June 20th off, so I'll take that day to fab.

Obligatory tape layout. I wanted easy access to the extended cab door handles from the inside should shit go sideways, so I will have a low door bar. The cage is tied to the frame where the door bar lands on the floor tube. I will likely have another tube going up to the A-pillar, though I may end it lower than the dash so I don't have to hack it up more.



I will have to notch part of the rear door panel where the lower tube crosses the speaker, but can still keep the speaker. Overall I'm pleased with the fitment.




Stay tuned fellas.

 

[the bodj]

I like how you ran the floor tubes first and stubbed through the floor to the frame. Looking good!

 

[theycallmeWALLY]

Looks great man. What size tubes are you going to run for the seat mounts?

 

[Mullen]

Looks great man. What size tubes are you going to run for the seat mounts?

Thanks man. I have 1.5"x.120" DOM for the seat and harness mounts. Even at 6'2" head room is plentiful, so the larger tubing shouldn't be an issue.

I made zero progress last weekend due to a back issue. I should be able to make some progress this weekend.

 

[Mullen]

All the main tube work is completed and fully welded (V bars need to be welded). I also got all of the cage-to-cab plating cut out, but need to clean up the cab and them get them bent and welded in. This weekend is booked, so hopefully next weekend I can get some time to finish the plating and fit the dash. I will fit the dash in without the windshield V, then come back and fit the V so I'm only working on 2 locations at a time. This should make the fitment easier and cleaner.








Short list of remaining work:

• Cage-to-cab plating
• Fit dash
• Mount quick release and steering wheel
• Patch holes in cab
• Seat and harness mounts
• Door bars
• Interior finish work - sealing, Dynamat, fire suppression, carpet, radio, etc.

Stay tuned.

 

[the bodj]

Get it!!!

 

[Mullen]

All fab work is done on the truck and I drove it out of the garage last weekend for the first time since February. I got my new PRP CompPro front seats in, which are +4" tall, +2" wide. They are massive. Beyond the photos below, the cage is painted, the windshield is installed, and I have the cab ~90% sealed. I have Dynamat arriving tomorrow, which will allow me to finish the insulation, install the carpet, and bolt the seats and harnesses in. The majority of the dash is installed, but I will leave the vents and lower parts until I do my lighting wiring. I also decided to powder coat the wheels as the flat black was looking terrible and I was ready for a change. I now just need to drop some cash on new batteries, lighting, switches, etc. to finish the truck off. This has taken me way too long and I'm too burned out to build the new bumper and bed cover that I planned. I'll take those on next year.

I'll take more photos once I get the interior finalized.

 

[theycallmeWALLY]

Rad man! It looks really good and I'm sure the second you get it in the dirt all of the motivation will come right back!

 

[Brett_408]

Came out great!

 

[Mullen]

I’m rebuilding my rear shocks and wanted to get some feedback on valving. I’d imagine with the added weight from the cage the rear may no longer be as good as it was previously. The truck has a bed with tailgate, single 35” spare, a jack at the rear of the bed, Deaver C27 springs, ADS 3.0x16 4-tube bypasses, and I usually carry a decent size ice chest up near the cab and 10 gallons of extra fuel at the rear. Here’s what is currently in the shocks, that worked great right out of the box.




I have a ton of 10, 12, 15, and 20 shims in all diameters if I should make a change. Let me know what you think.

 

[the bodj]

How opened/closed are the tubes on the bypass? I think that'll play a pretty big role.

 

[Mullen]

Here is where each bypass valve was when I removed them with the tops being rebound and bottom being compression, CT = top compression tube.

 

[theycallmeWALLY]

The cage is going to be centered so in the vehicle so the additional weight shouldn't effect valving enough front or rear.

I think when Bodj is asking about your tubes it is because if they were all of the way in then your valving would have been too light.

I'd put them back in just how they were. Revalve if you run out of adjustment.

 

[Mullen]

The cage is going to be centered so in the vehicle so the additional weight shouldn't effect valving enough front or rear.

I think when Bodj is asking about your tubes it is because if they were all of the way in then your valving would have been too light.

I'd put them back in just how they were. Revalve if you run out of adjustment.

That makes sense. I'm going to run it as-is as try turning tubes if needed.

 

[Mullen]

Anybody in IE or OC have a nitrogen tank that can fill my shocks with 150 psi in exchange for beer? I’d rather not pay Kartek $60 to fill them.

 

[theycallmeWALLY]

I'm a little to far south but would help you out... Down in Valley Center.

 

[Brett_408]

Anybody in IE or OC have a nitrogen tank that can fill my shocks with 150 psi in exchange for beer? I’d rather not pay Kartek $60 to fill them.

I'll check my bottle when I get home and see if its full or empty if its got some in it you can come by I'm in Yorba Linda. How many shocks 6?

 

[dwphoto]

damn I'd say roll by the house... but I'm in Thousand oaks....

 

[mobil1syn]

Anybody in IE or OC have a nitrogen tank that can fill my shocks with 150 psi in exchange for beer? I’d rather not pay Kartek $60 to fill them.

im on the east end of riverside, drop me a PM if you want.

you can you argon if you got any tig welder buddies.

 

[Mullen]

im on the east end of riverside, drop me a PM if you want.

you can you argon if you got any tig welder buddies.

Thanks for the offer. @Brett_408 helped me out.

I finally got the truck done enough to drive on Friday at 3pm for my family trip Lucerne trip. My first drive since tearing it apart in February was straight to the desert. Driving the truck on the street sucks balls now, but I knew that was going to happen. The clicking bypasses aren’t nearly as bad as the solid carrier bearing. That thing is obnoxious as hell, so much so that I may look into something different. Outside of that, the truck handles so much better with the cage. I suspect some more compression valving is needed up front now that I can feel the suspension working, but I’ll deal with that later. I still have some odds and ends to button up, but overall the 170 mile driving and ~40 dirt miles were a success.






I’m trying to get the truck out to the Thanksgiving trip and one more day trip this year. I’d like to get it out a few times in January and February as well before my second offspring arrives.