84projectFORD
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Local Legend Don't Call It An S10
- Thread starter the bodj
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doyouquaxu
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Looks like a fun trip. I don't want to read 35 pages about an S10, what rear axle do you have in this?
desert_steve
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84Prerunner
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A set20 would never!
the bodj
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Schreiner 31 spline rear axle. It's a circle track axle, so both sides are right hand thread. On the drivers side, it's constantly trying to back the spindle nut off. I'm planning on making my own set of Stage8 locking spindle nuts. I have them for the front D44 hubs and they're awesome.
Does schreiner make a non circle track axle? If so, can you get a different snout to weld in? I would be so worried all the time about it backing off, especially at speeds if you can’t hear it in time. It’s my biggest qualm with the d35 set up being normal thread on the driver side.
Doubleggregg
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Are all of his rear axles like this even his 35 and 40 spline stuff?
the bodj
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No clue. At this point I'd love to upgrade to 35 spline axles and bigger snouts, but that's not going to happen anytime soon. The amount of work to do that is pretty substantial, and so is the cost. Snouts, hubs, axle shafts, and gear carrier. Gets expensive fast. I'd love to have the big baller stuff, but I'm trying to live within my means. I wish I was buying homes in '08 instead of finishing sophomore year of high school.
That said, the Stage8 locknut setup is killer. They only make it for Dana 44 and 60, though. In my head I'm pretty confident I can replicate it using the standard steel spindle nut I already have, but may need to start from scratch and have someone to point thread the nut for me (my cousin has a machinist, so shouldn't be a problem). All I'll need is the thrust washer, have sendcutsend laser cut the toothed ring and the outer toothed ring. Then, if there's enough meat on the current spindle nut, I can mill the 8 notches and turn a groove for the snap ring. If the spindle nut doesn't have enough material to machine the notches and groove, I'll have my cousin make them.
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84projectFORD
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Considering every full float axle in a light duty truck is right hand thread on both sides, i dont see that as bodj’s issue.
They want you to torque the nut to 5 ft lbs and then use that lock tooth to hold it from coming loose where as whats on the road is usually double nutted. First goes on, set preload to desired (most are 30-50ft lbs these days) then put the next one on and torque to 250ft lbs. hell my ttb d44 nuts are that way. That second nut gets torqued to 240ft lbs.
If you ran a second nut and a keeper on that or between them, i cant see it being an issue. Specially for as long as you ran it the way it was. Keep it simple.
They want you to torque the nut to 5 ft lbs and then use that lock tooth to hold it from coming loose where as whats on the road is usually double nutted. First goes on, set preload to desired (most are 30-50ft lbs these days) then put the next one on and torque to 250ft lbs. hell my ttb d44 nuts are that way. That second nut gets torqued to 240ft lbs.
If you ran a second nut and a keeper on that or between them, i cant see it being an issue. Specially for as long as you ran it the way it was. Keep it simple.
the bodj
Well-known member
No.
I actually did think about drilling and welding a pin on the nut, laser cutting a holy lock ring to engage the pin, and double nutting, but I'm a huge fan of the Stage 8 locking setup. It doesn't rely on any secondary fastener to maintain torque. The lock ring keeps it from changing torque, and that is retained by the snap ring.
Heck, if I'm making a new spindle nut, I should be able to make it fit the D44 socket I have so I don't have to carry another tool.
I did (briefly) consider drilling and tapping the spindle nut, then slit one half of it, so I'd just use a pinch bolt to keep it tight on the spindle, like a pinch bolt on bump cans. Still considering it...
84projectFORD
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I like the pinch bolt idea
the bodj
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That idea is on hold. I need to see if there's enough room in the hub to get an allen key on the socket head cap screw that I'd be using.
84Prerunner
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No because no.
Slice spindle nut and install pinch bolts to deform threads to keep it tight like BMS does for the D35/D44 front end.
https://blitzkriegoffroad.com/products/d35-44-spindle-nuts-pair
OR measure thread size and see if you can find one that will work for ya, maybe the BMS D35 is same thread size, not sure.
https://blitzkriegoffroad.com/products/d35-44-spindle-nuts-pair
OR measure thread size and see if you can find one that will work for ya, maybe the BMS D35 is same thread size, not sure.
Motiracer38
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Tommy the problem with that system is the same as he has now. It relies on two small screws that have to be properly cleaned, loctite'd and torqued correctly. Bodj has shown an inability to do this so hitting metal with hammers is likely a better approach.
84Prerunner
Well-known member
If that’s the case, assemble as is, beat on the snout with a sledge hammer (might need to hire someone bigger, turbro?), voila! Nut can never come off over mushroomed snout.
the bodj
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You're not my mom, so that's not a good enough answer.
Maitai basically outlined it. I don't have the time to look up how many ugga dugga torks are required for the 10-32 screws.
A more accurate answer is that I don't want to rely on another screw that has the potential of backing out to maintain bearing preload. It might be a small amount of extra work up front, but I believe it's a better failsafe than the other options.
That said, anyone from the peanut gallery who wants to come prep my hubs for me before each trip, I will gladly run whatever style you want.
Turboyota
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Yo! Somebody rang???
WW_RANGER_X
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The BMS spindle nuts where one of the best upgrades i did on my D35 ranger, just saying. The design works well. Revlock the little set screws and check them every 6 months.
the bodj
Well-known member
The Stage 8 spindle nut is the best upgrade (imo) for D44/60. I'd rather jack up the wheel and wiggle for play than remove the siliconed-on drive plate, clean, and reseal every 6 months. Seems more foolproof than anything with a set screw.
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