the bodj
Well-known member
@WW_RANGER_X I'm not saying the BMS spindle nut isn't a solid locking method. I just like the Stage 8 the best.
Local Legend Don't Call It An S10
- Thread starter the bodj
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84Prerunner
Well-known member
Driveplates shouldn’t be siliconed. Oring for easy convenient prep.
Or just sell the whole axle and put a 35spline semi floater in. Only prep mine every 4-5yrs
Or just sell the whole axle and put a 35spline semi floater in. Only prep mine every 4-5yrs
the bodj
Well-known member
Per Schreiner's websiteDriveplates shouldn’t be siliconed. Oring for easy convenient prep.
Or just sell the whole axle and put a 35spline semi floater in. Only prep mine every 4-5yrs
I have zero desire for a semi-floater
84Prerunner
Well-known member
That’s gay AF
DialedShockPrep
Well-known member
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- Jul 5, 2023
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- 132
Not exactly the same as the BMS lock rings but a similar approach.. My old Ranger kingpin spindles used a threaded pinch bolt style collet as the spindle/bearing nut. Tighten it to where you wanted, then crank down the allen screw so the nut bites down onto the threads. I never had one come lose on me ever. Super simple and efficient.
If you can blast a Allen screw with brake clean, put a drop of red loctite on there, and snug it up, then idk what to tell ya haha
If you can blast a Allen screw with brake clean, put a drop of red loctite on there, and snug it up, then idk what to tell ya haha
84projectFORD
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- Apr 1, 2022
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- 358
Definitely getting those Stage 8 spindle nuts for my 60 spindles since they are also both RH thread. Glad I read this. BTW my Schreiner use to have a similar problem with the driver side loosening and destroying bearings and seals only difference was the tooth on the lock ring that locks into the spindle would break. Had custom lock rings laser cut from .125 4130 and it solved the problem.
the bodj
Well-known member
That’s definitely what my plan was, just not 4130 lol. I was going to do 3/16” HRPO and a snug fit. I want all the purchase I can get.
@DialedShockPrep that’s what I was describing as my second choice
the bodj
Well-known member
Spindle nut system modeled up. Everything is parametric. I have no clue on any of the actual measurements, aside from spindle diameter that I found online. Snap ring imported from McMaster. I copied the design of Stage8, so there are 23 teeth, meaning the external teeth on the lock ring are inherently offset from the octagon pattern. That gives infinite fitments, and I'll just need to rotate the lock ring around until it fits the spacing.
There's a good chance this doesn't happen and I just use the clamping spindle nut idea
There's a good chance this doesn't happen and I just use the clamping spindle nut idea
84Prerunner
Well-known member
I’ve had ok luck with the BMS style lock nut (if that’s the style you mean) but I have seen them fuck up the snout threads when the tab broke off the washer and spun it anyway.
triple_fcked
Active member
I use AAM 14 Bolt spindle nuts on my Dana 60 and 70. Easy to work on, can't come loose, the wedge goes in and the spring clip snaps on the spindle threads. Cheap too, you can find them used all day long for like $30-40 a set on Ebay, or literally any pick a part will have more than you need.
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84Prerunner
Well-known member
Are those LH snd RH thread?
triple_fcked
Active member
Ahh, that would be a no, soz. The only factory RH LH thread spindle nuts in the 2”-16 I know of are Sterling 10.5, theyre a serrated ratcheting lock nut kind of like those TTB D44 ratcheting ones
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