FlyByRacing
Well-known member
Turn a few tubes but I didn't bring anything to pull the shocks apart this timeGoing to be messing with suspension while you're out there at all?
Turn a few tubes but I didn't bring anything to pull the shocks apart this timeGoing to be messing with suspension while you're out there at all?
Soft would be better IMOP. Maybe you just need a larger shock in the rear with more valving? You don't want it too pogo sticky in the back.Put 250 or so miles on the truck the last 2 weeks. Only casualties was a blow shock seal and power steering pump is about to leave the chat. Truck got fast with some bypass adjustments but need to send the leafs out to add a few leafs as the F31s are a tad to soft.
Too soft generally causes trucks to buck. You run out of travel, hit the bump stop hard and it’s all out of control from there.Soft would be better IMOP. Maybe you just need a larger shock in the rear with more valving? You don't want it too pogo sticky in the back.
I'm gana revalve them Friday and go out this weekend again. I'd also like to get the pack re arched to get alittle more bump travel too. I'm at 8.5-9" I'd like to be closer to 10.5"Soft would be better IMOP. Maybe you just need a larger shock in the rear with more valving? You don't want it too pogo sticky in the back.
Luckily the truck doesn't want to buck right now but I get into the bump stops pretty oftenToo soft generally causes trucks to buck. You run out of travel, hit the bump stop hard and it’s all out of control from there.
The 7s I raced all season I can confidently says has never kicked/bucked but it’s stiff enough it has only touched the bump stops maybe 5 times in a full year of racing. We launched it as hard as we possibly could at glen Helen and didn’t touch rear bump stops.
Spring Rate shouldn't exactly manage the compression side of shock tuning unless I'm incorrect.Too soft generally causes trucks to buck. You run out of travel, hit the bump stop hard and it’s all out of control from there.
The 7s I raced all season I can confidently says has never kicked/bucked but it’s stiff enough it has only touched the bump stops maybe 5 times in a full year of racing. We launched it as hard as we possibly could at glen Helen and didn’t touch rear bump stops.
I just put some on my truck and couldn’t agree more, I’m putting anything I can back there to help it out, including 3/8 plate work that I get free from work lolNice dude.
I had the G50s and I think like anything with leafs they just need a bunch of weight.
Very true, if we treat the axle as the fulcrum the 200lbs of tires on top of that would exert the same 200lbs or ~90Kg of mass. The further they’re moved back the longer their lever arm becomes and the 90Kg of mass becomes hundreds of pounds of force acting on the rear of the truck due to the mechanical advantage. So if the tires are placed 4x the distance from the fulcrum as the load, the lever gives you around a 4x advantage aka 200lb tires act as 800lb. In short Wally is right and placing the tires further back is smarter than me using stupid thick steel LOL.The easiest thing would be moving your spares back a little further IMOP vs adding stuff that doesn't add to the cause or whatever.
I'm no Math guy but I bet 10" further back of 200+ pounds does a lot at that leverage.
So far seams good. If I need I can move my batteries from the extra cab to next to the spare tires for more weight.Nice dude.
I had the G50s and I think like anything with leafs they just need a bunch of weight.