Choosing 4-link pivots

[BlkMrkt_Ranger]

Hello everyone. looking for some help here. So I'm preparing to cross over to the Darkside and 4-link my 94 Ranger. My question is regarding these companies that sell links and pivot points IE: Giant motorsports, Camburg, SI Motorsports, Threat Motorsports.

I am looking to buy the links and pivots together.

Whats the differences? are they pretty much all the same?

Performance wise, does a company's links work better than another's for running all the weight out back.

Note: I have used Giants links and pivots on my 99 F150 build and thought they ran great out of the box. i only got one weekend of play and had to sell for family reasons. so that's my only reference

 

[marcytech]

No they will not all perform the same. Some companies listed don’t take any time to figure out the link geometry and set up appropriate antisquat and roll center parameters

In my opinion, the si Motorsports is the best performing 4 link you can buy, it’s got little amounts of anti squat built in so it keeps the front end of the vehicle light and has awesome cornering characteristics.
the camburg set up is a copy that was converted to 3 link so a lil worse roll center.

 

[BlkMrkt_Ranger]

No they will not all perform the same. Some companies listed don’t take any time to figure out the link geometry and set up appropriate antisquat and roll center parameters

In my opinion, the si Motorsports is the best performing 4 link you can buy, it’s got little amounts of anti squat built in so it keeps the front end of the vehicle light and has awesome cornering characteristics.
the camburg set up is a copy that was converted to 3 link so a lil worse roll center.

Awesome. Thank you. I know your Ranger worked amazing bro. Thats exactly what I want is a light front end.

 

[85Yota]

I personally setup trucks with a couple different link spread depending on the application and driveline used, Double Carden or regular single joints. I am running Giant link mounts on my OBS f150 and it works good and was easy to mount onto the truck as well.

 

[36Fan]

Way more complicated than that, its not as easy as one kit works better than the other. The details of the truck and what you are trying to achieve out of the build need to be input into the process.

 

[marcytech]

Way more complicated than that, its not as easy as one kit works better than the other. The details of the truck and what you are trying to achieve out of the build need to be input into the process.

Some what true but if you put one kit vs another on the same truck there will be some that perform better than others due to the dynamics they give the vehicle as a whole.

If he’s 4 linking a ranger and putting all the weight in the rear of the truck it’s safe to assume he wants to haul ass over bumps and humps
To do that, in my experience I’ve found trucks are faster and way more predictable with <100% antisquat.
For sure other things things go into play. But we’re just talkin about 4 links…for now.


This is all just my opinion after building a few trucks for myself that were vastly different. Not saying my way is the only way. But I know what I liked better

 

[the bodj]

I'll agree with Marcy. Every 4 link setup (mine included) with low (20-40%) antisquat numbers handle very well and feel more planted. Less sway as well.

 

[BlkMrkt_Ranger]

Truck handles great now with Solo motorsports Beams and F31 Deavers out back. So anything will be an improvement. Like @marcytech said it. I'm trying to go fast over the bumps and keep the front feeling light with fuel cell and my single spare out back behind the axle

 

[36Fan]

Some what true but if you put one kit vs another on the same truck there will be some that perform better than others due to the dynamics they give the vehicle as a whole.

If he’s 4 linking a ranger and putting all the weight in the rear of the truck it’s safe to assume he wants to haul ass over bumps and humps
To do that, in my experience I’ve found trucks are faster and way more predictable with <100% antisquat.
For sure other things things go into play. But we’re just talkin about 4 links…for now.


This is all just my opinion after building a few trucks for myself that were vastly different. Not saying my way is the only way. But I know what I liked better

Basically said the same thing I did, and I agree with your comments. When I build a truck, which I've built a few and have one on the chassis table right now, I dont start with whats the best link kit to buy. There is far more info that needs to be considered before that, is what Im saying. Also this is my opinion as well and works for me.

 

[Kellyex1450]

I would stay away from the SI, its overpriced and ancient. they still do wobbly arms. the camburg kit is also overpriced and the 3 link puts a lot of stress on the upper rod end. I would either go with the Threat or the Giant kit. I have never bought anything from Giant but I know Customers of Geoff that have been going back to him for 20 years, so that says something, that and he is regularly on here so that's nice also.

 

[DialedShockPrep]

I would stay away from the SI, its overpriced and ancient. they still do wobbly arms. the camburg kit is also overpriced and the 3 link puts a lot of stress on the upper rod end. I would either go with the Threat or the Giant kit. I have never bought anything from Giant but I know Customers of Geoff that have been going back to him for 20 years, so that says something, that and he is regularly on here so that's nice also.

You say it’s overpriced and ancient, yet Tom regularly builds thee nicest rangers out there and there is nobody that would argue that..
I don’t know what “wobbly arms” are but his kits work. Are they an old design? Yes, but so is the internal combustion engine.
When it comes to rangers and links, you HAVE to take into consideration the narrow frame spread if you are retaining those parameters. I know many will argue this but there is a maximum angle you want on the upper links for side loading purposes and strength, which limits the length of the upper links which limits the length of the lower links. 48” links are ideal on rangers due to those aspects, otherwise when you get longer and try to maintain decent geometry the upper links want to go into the cab floor and the angle between uppers gets too low loading the hell out of the housing and frame pivots.

For a bolt on kit and simplicity’s sake, the SI/Newline/Plank kit is the business. Plus the knowledge you gain from chatting with Tom for 30 min is priceless.

 

[Kellyex1450]

Wobbly arms are un-pocketed trailing arms where the shock mounts are over the center line of the two pivots which creates undue stress on the bushings that can result in a un-controlled wobble with harsh desert use as the shocks push down over the center line. Wobbly arms can be remedied by mounting the shocks under the center line of the two pivots, this was found to be advantageous for longevity of components in the early 90s. In my Ranger days I never came across an SI truck that wasn't to low and slow in the big stuff. I don't see the appeal from an engineering standpoint of the SI stuff, a lot of it is out dated, wobbly arms, King pins, bolt on everything, single 3.0, I remember being amazed by the Newline stuff back in the day and am still amazed at the constant evolving Nestor continues to do with X travel and what not. The SI stuff is different in that it seems frozen in time for whatever reason and I'm an evolution in technology person especially if I'm paying for a premium product. I really don't have a dog in the fight, this is 25 years of honest desert addiction speaking.

 

[marcytech]

SI stuff is different in that it seems frozen in time for whatever reason and I'm an evolution in technology person especially if I'm paying for a premium product. I really don't have a dog in the fight, this is 25 years of honest desert addiction speaking.

and yet here we are talking about and building OLD rangers not new ones.

At 3500 bucks the si kit includes pivot brackets, TIG welded chromoly upper and lower links, all misalignments and all tabs for the axle. That’s a pretty damn good price if you ask me.
Most other mild steel mig welded kits are near the 3000 dollar price for only trailing arms and frame side pivot brackets.

Pocketed arms aren’t the end all be all. I replaced my front trailing arm bushings once in 7 years only cuz I recoated the arms not cuz they were failing.

 

[85Yota]

Yeah I sell my 4 link kit which is frame mounts, welded trailing arms, heims, upper link tubing and heim kits with hardware all Mig welded for $3500