Forget Regrets
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New desk ornaments. Aaron unintentionally made a smiley face when trying to remive the ball n cup from the arm lol
98 F150 - Frankenstein
- Thread starter Forget Regrets
- Start date
Forget Regrets
Member
Totally surprised me with the few extras he did because it was just supposed to be a light install. Its kind of turned into a multipurpose hook at this point lol
Forget Regrets
Member
After getting stuck in johnson valley for 3hrs and putting a dent on my trans oil pan, i started planning to get some skid plates made for them (not there yet) 
Bought another set of tires, barely used. Toyo MT 37x13.50x17” load range E. Personally love these tires for offroad but paired with my walkers, they're 135lbs each, lot of weight to push around with a V6.
Sometime after that purchase, i tore an oil seal in one of my bypasses. Took it apart at work, fresh oil, few new seals, polished shaft, and it was back on.
Scored free paddle tires for glamis as well but never got around to mounting them. Not even sure if i can run them, as they came off a sandrail and might not hold the weight of my truck. Plus would need to take some scoops out to save my trans lol.
The lights i had on the bumper were also a free score as stated above, only 3 of the 4 worked then eventually only 2 and it wasn't cutting it for me anymore. I bought 2 pairs of the pro 6’s from KC with amber covers, wide 40 beam. It’s honestly been a great upgrade. When theres too much dust, i can switch off the roof lights and just use the bumper lights and works just as good.
Blew the U joints out of my driveshaft some time in april, replaced them Dirt Skum’s help and they DNF’d about 6 months later. Then took it to driveshaft pro and they rebalanced it and replaced both joints.
Lastly, some time in November, the nut that holds my idler arm on, backed off and lost on the road somewhere. I only caught it because the wheel was a little more loose than normal lol. I still drove it home like this too. I tightened 1 of the 2 idler arm bolts (the other was gone gone) and drove it back. A friend later welded it to the frame per my request.
Bought another set of tires, barely used. Toyo MT 37x13.50x17” load range E. Personally love these tires for offroad but paired with my walkers, they're 135lbs each, lot of weight to push around with a V6.
Sometime after that purchase, i tore an oil seal in one of my bypasses. Took it apart at work, fresh oil, few new seals, polished shaft, and it was back on.
Scored free paddle tires for glamis as well but never got around to mounting them. Not even sure if i can run them, as they came off a sandrail and might not hold the weight of my truck. Plus would need to take some scoops out to save my trans lol.
The lights i had on the bumper were also a free score as stated above, only 3 of the 4 worked then eventually only 2 and it wasn't cutting it for me anymore. I bought 2 pairs of the pro 6’s from KC with amber covers, wide 40 beam. It’s honestly been a great upgrade. When theres too much dust, i can switch off the roof lights and just use the bumper lights and works just as good.
Blew the U joints out of my driveshaft some time in april, replaced them Dirt Skum’s help and they DNF’d about 6 months later. Then took it to driveshaft pro and they rebalanced it and replaced both joints.
Lastly, some time in November, the nut that holds my idler arm on, backed off and lost on the road somewhere. I only caught it because the wheel was a little more loose than normal lol. I still drove it home like this too. I tightened 1 of the 2 idler arm bolts (the other was gone gone) and drove it back. A friend later welded it to the frame per my request.
Forget Regrets
Member
Re wired my dust lights (those have not worked since 2020). 
Prerunning the MORE championship in December, i broke the last lateral mount holding my driver side fender on and only 2 on the top. Decided the best bet was to remove it completely. Im not going to fix it as the 1 piece is going on soon (fingers crossed before KOH)
Scored the free race air and installed it in the rain on new years eve. Bought new hoses and a bracket to hold it in. Musgrave’s said it was 15 years old lol it is loud as fuck but it was free. Im basically at that point of not hitting dirt without my helmet and hans device. Just never know when something bad is gonna happen. So the race air has become a necessity too.
Last trip out January 2nd, did 45 miles before heading home on a day run.
Prerunning the MORE championship in December, i broke the last lateral mount holding my driver side fender on and only 2 on the top. Decided the best bet was to remove it completely. Im not going to fix it as the 1 piece is going on soon (fingers crossed before KOH)
Scored the free race air and installed it in the rain on new years eve. Bought new hoses and a bracket to hold it in. Musgrave’s said it was 15 years old lol it is loud as fuck but it was free. Im basically at that point of not hitting dirt without my helmet and hans device. Just never know when something bad is gonna happen. So the race air has become a necessity too.
Last trip out January 2nd, did 45 miles before heading home on a day run.
Forget Regrets
Member
Where im at right now, besides the hood fiasco with getting it installed over the course of 4 years lol. Im due for rear brake rotors and the fronts could be too. Im going to buy the dana 44 rotor hat adapters from wilwood and get them redrilled to my wheel pattern. Im tired of having to take my hubs off every time i want to change my rotors and having to use a press for my studs. Wilwood rotors, all 4 corners. Rebuild kits for all 5 calipers, 1 went bad due to negligence. New front wheel bearings and 2 sets of pads.
Aluminum dash and center console after the hood and brakes, also need an alignment bad. Hangers need attention and might just wire wheel and grease tf out of them, see if it goes a little longer.
Would like to find a stock LS1 and get parts going for a future engine swap. Back half also around the same time.
Aluminum dash and center console after the hood and brakes, also need an alignment bad. Hangers need attention and might just wire wheel and grease tf out of them, see if it goes a little longer.
Would like to find a stock LS1 and get parts going for a future engine swap. Back half also around the same time.
Forget Regrets
Member
Welp…was getting ready to leave for the MORE race on Friday and noticed my main leaf on my driver side had snapped lol the other side is cracking in the same spot too. I think it happened new years based on the rust. I decided Thursday that i was going to take my bedsides off to redo the mounting holes because they rattle like a mofo. Had i not taken them off, i don’t think i would have seen the broken leaf and might possibly had a catastrophe prerunning.
Had my buddy at Finnco weld it so i could get home and it snapped again 10miles later…mind you, i drove it out like this and back home, so im not super worried about it either. I definitely can’t drive it long like this tho. Ive had the truck for 8 years and only know about 1 rearch on them, i did that i think 4.5 years ago. These could be 10-15 years old for all i know. Between the 1” negative arch at full bump, axle wrap, and old age; im not complaining that it snapped. It happens.
I called deaver and talked to Jeff, he said it wouod be 10 weeks to make a new set and or juat to fix it because he doesn’t stock my year leafs anymore. Currently looking for someone to quote me on a back-half and lead time because im seriously thinking if i have to wait 10 weeks for a new lead pack, id rather spend it waiting for a 4 link. I messaged a few people but no replies yet.
Had my buddy at Finnco weld it so i could get home and it snapped again 10miles later…mind you, i drove it out like this and back home, so im not super worried about it either. I definitely can’t drive it long like this tho. Ive had the truck for 8 years and only know about 1 rearch on them, i did that i think 4.5 years ago. These could be 10-15 years old for all i know. Between the 1” negative arch at full bump, axle wrap, and old age; im not complaining that it snapped. It happens.
I called deaver and talked to Jeff, he said it wouod be 10 weeks to make a new set and or juat to fix it because he doesn’t stock my year leafs anymore. Currently looking for someone to quote me on a back-half and lead time because im seriously thinking if i have to wait 10 weeks for a new lead pack, id rather spend it waiting for a 4 link. I messaged a few people but no replies yet.
Forget Regrets
Member
Also need to weld the spring plates as both sides have major stress cracks. It is a large surface area and a lot of stress being loaded on them. New hardware, bolts/ washers/ nuts, and everything in between just to get me up and running again…just seems more logical to throw it towards a back half.
Forget Regrets
Member
I never posted these on my build. I bought these off of Sean L YEARS AGO, for my ranger and then decided i was gonna run it on my F150. These originally came off of Walter built’s ranger, back when it was a 5.5 mid travel kit and linked. They’re 55” trailing arms.
Grab some Giant link pivots from Geoff and slap those links on. I had the same BTF 55" trailing arms on my Tundra with Geoffs pivots. Worked great and set up very easy.
the bodj
Well-known member
What about contacting atlas springs in La Puente?
Forget Regrets
Member
Went their site and they dont stock them + its about 12-1400 lol.
Forget Regrets
Member
Update, my buddy has a set of used leafs and we are swapping everything over on Sunday. Still gonna collect more parts for a back half and at the same time shop around for pricing and lead time.
