88 toyota single cab, go fast?

the bodj said:
You can fit shocks under the bed, but it's just not the absolute best setup. Totally doable and way better than stock.
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sick that what I thought, I'm not looking for this thing to be super crazy either just wanna be fun and handle well and be decently capable decently rough trails
 
My T100 is basically your truck with the same suspension, just a little bigger body on it. I've gone through all the steps of cutting and plating my front control arms, upgraded torsions with beefier Bilsteins. To rear bed cage, deavers, bypasses in the rear. Then back to the front with upgraded JD Fab control arms, coil overs, bypasses and partial upgraded steering. Read through my build and it might help you jump past some of the steps I took to save you some time and money.

T-Juan - `98 Toyota T100 4x4, 5-spd

(this build thread transferred from dezertrangers.com) T-Juan - 1998 Toyota T100 SR5 4x4, 5-spd, TRD Supercharged I figured it's time to start a build thread on my truck since I'm finally starting to do something with it. Might be a little boring of a thread to most because it's more of a...
forum.badlinesgoodtimes.com forum.badlinesgoodtimes.com
 
Austen2019 said:
Don’t do total chaos it’s way overpriced. Go with jd fab has a boxed lower arm better quality and not as much out the door. And f67s
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I am obviously very biased here but there are a few other things to take into consideration when comparing the kits. First off I wont say a bad word about JD as I think they are good dudes (although I've never met them), make good products, and are very knowledgeable. What I will say is that the comparison is not apples to apples. If you are comparing the boxed TC kit to the boxed JD boxed kit there is one HUGE difference which is the TC kit comes with the lower uniball conversion, hence why it is significantly more in price. The TC kit is made of all .125" 4130 plate lowers and where the JD kit is made from 10ga cold rolled steel (this is not a knock, just the truth). The TC kit comes with 100% stainless steel uniballs as well. The last main difference is that the TC kit has quite a bit more ground clearance where the lower arm meets the wheel. Like I said I'm obviously very biased but I would bet that there are many more TC kits out there on the road and you'd be hard pressed to find the owners that were unhappy with its performance and durability. Either way you go I'm sure you'll love it as they are both far better than the stock suspension.
 
Also, I HIGHLY recommend going spring under with F-67s and 12" shackles above the frame. its an easy 16-17 inches of travel and with the right shock tuning you'll be amazed at what they are capable of.
 
 
Camper shell fun said:
I am obviously very biased here but there are a few other things to take into consideration when comparing the kits. First off I wont say a bad word about JD as I think they are good dudes (although I've never met them), make good products, and are very knowledgeable. What I will say is that the comparison is not apples to apples. If you are comparing the boxed TC kit to the boxed JD boxed kit there is one HUGE difference which is the TC kit comes with the lower uniball conversion, hence why it is significantly more in price. The TC kit is made of all .125" 4130 plate lowers and where the JD kit is made from 10ga cold rolled steel (this is not a knock, just the truth). The TC kit comes with 100% stainless steel uniballs as well. The last main difference is that the TC kit has quite a bit more ground clearance where the lower arm meets the wheel. Like I said I'm obviously very biased but I would bet that there are many more TC kits out there on the road and you'd be hard pressed to find the owners that were unhappy with its performance and durability. Either way you go I'm sure you'll love it as they are both far better than the stock suspension.
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lol thx for the distinction I didn't notice that the JD kit was not lower uniball. and I'm pretty much already sold of yalls kit. I work over at yotamastersand I've seen the quality of your guys product, top notch also love the Tacoma it an inspo :)
 
Ive heard nothing but great things about JD fab, I dont think youd be disappointed with their stuff. That said, If I were in your shoes Id happily pick up the TC kit linked above (if you have the funds for it - no shame in having to save money to afford to build these dumbass trucks in "stages"). A few hundred bucks in small parts and a few cans of spray paint and youll be in business. Not sure if TC would give it the "blessing", but Ive seen a few people running coilovers on those old torsion bar kits without any issues - they end up moving the lower shock mount forward on the arm to clear the axle.

As for the rear of the truck... Im going to go against the grain here and say "link it". By the time you find a pair of used deavers, buy the TC or ruffstuff mounts, shackles, used shocks, etc etc, for not that much more money, you could link it. AND, you could still keep the majority of your bed space too.

The blue p/u that was posted above had deavers and dual 2.0 (IIRC) shocks under the bed and that thing kicked ass.

Just my $.02

[PS - if youre looking for a front bumper for your truck, it have THE bumper off of that blue truck sitting here at my house, Ill let it go cheaper than you might think]
 
Camper shell fun said:
When its finished I will for sure. I should have it back from wiring in about 3-4 weeks.
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dang sadly I put in my 2 weeks I gotta take care of some family stuff and its not the closest place to home :/ and im a student still. but its been a great time and those guys have tought me alot its a bummer I have to leave.
 
on another note here are some pictures of my truck i crashed it a few years ago and got it back to stock so now i have no excuses lol
 

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How wide are the frame rails on your truck and the axle width? If you don’t want to go through the bed there are a number of ways to run shocks under the bed. Relocating the shocks to outside the frame gives the best overall performance but the longest shock you’ll probably fit will be a 10-12” without a body lift. Check out “Freel Good Performance’s” shock relocation for 3rd Gen 4Runners or Solo Motorsports shock relocation for Taco’s / 4Runners to get an idea of what you could base one off. A shock tower could also work too.

You’ll need a wider rear axle to relocate the shocks outside of the frame (which is why I was asking about the frame and axle widths) or at the very least 2” wheel spacers but even those won’t work to keep from rubbing the shock at full articulation. Potential axles could be a 1st Gen Tacoma (or 3rd Gen 4runner but more brackets to cut off and the 8” diff vs the 8.4 in the tacos) at 60” wms to wms or a Tundra 66”), but that may be much to wide if you’re far less than 60” axle width already.

The differences between the TC and JD Fab kits have been spelled out in good detail. If getting the rear of your truck built was a factor in picking one or the other, I’d go for the location of funds going to getting both the front and rear done at the same time as any kit with a stock rear is not going to handle as well as a stock front and a built rear. I don’t know what weight you’re running in the rear, but an F55 or F67 pack with a few leaves pulled would probably outperform 63’s in a SOA setup and F67 or H70 / H70HD SUA w/ 12” shackles over the frame (call deaver and tell them how much weight you plan on running out back) would definitely outperform 63’s. Look for used leafs - I saw some going for $600 in the buy / sell area on here and I got some H70HD’s for under $350 this summer from Craigslist (who uses that still lol).

I don’t have any affiliation with JD Fab or any of their parts on any of my rigs, but based on their 2nd Gen Tacoma front kits which have been getting good reviews on other forums by guys that actually use them, their front kits seem nice. I don’t know if this is the same kit on this video for your truck, but it seems like it would be based on the yota gens for your truck and 2nd Gen runners.

 
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Notch the frame relocate 2.5x 16 or even 14” shock outboard of the frame, spring under with some f67 or h70’s and for the front buy for your budget. Either kit should be good for the front and the shocks are going to be the budget killer. Market place you can probably find some used kits but I’m a little favoring new since rebuilding can cost as much or more than the savings. Look up and watch the videos on @Camper shell fun because his rips, also watch videos of red or dead fabs 4Runner you can also see his builds on instagram. If you outboard the shocks you won’t take up the bed space and you can build a simple bed rack that saves bed space.
 
TC all day dude.

I had a 87 pickup 4wd 5 speed with TC kit up front, King Kong steering upgrade, still torsion bar’d, SAW’s all around, out back f67s 18” SAW’s, 2 spares. Thing was so fun!
 
JD builds some great stuff there is no doubt. In fact I really like their 2nd gen Taco stuff. That being said, when it comes to the early 4x4 stuff I prefer TC (obviously biased) because of all the add-ons for steering and the TC lower arms have more clearance. I'm sure you'll be happy either way. No matter what you get these trucks don't do well in the 2-track because of the poor crossmember credence.
 
Camper shell fun said:
JD builds some great stuff there is no doubt. In fact I really like their 2nd gen Taco stuff. That being said, when it comes to the early 4x4 stuff I prefer TC (obviously biased) because of all the add-ons for steering and the TC lower arms have more clearance. I'm sure you'll be happy either way. No matter what you get these trucks don't do well in the 2-track because of the poor crossmember credence.
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so would that lower cross member brace yall sell lower the ground clearance?
 
Camper shell fun said:
It does not necessarily lower the ground clearance. The ground clearance is just bad on those vehicles. The stock crossmember is the lowest part I believe.
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Yes sir, thats the lowest part.

The TC crossmember is 100% necessary (IMO) if youre going to "beat" on the truck at all. It might be just a little bit lower than the stock/front cross member, but in all of my years of beating on it (the TC kit OR the cross member) Ive never had an issue.
 
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