The mighty shit10

[Chancegoodman]

All right it’s time to start a thread for my 2001 Chevy s10 with all my pans and goal
Current plan for this truck is long travel links cage back half v8 you know the good stuff
FRONT END
Currently for the truck I have a custom j arm kit that’s made by my buddy Daniel (Danielson.92 on insta Check him out he’s got cool stuff)
The kit is 4.5” wide and pushed the arm 3” forward for better tire clearance
Fox 2.5x10” coilover
Fox 2.5x10” 2 tube bypass
Dana 44 hubs
Willwood super lights
6 old school ultra bead locks

Current plan is too start the truck at the end of my summer break of school so that should be around august
Updates will be probably slow but as I get stuff I’ll update

 

[theycallmeWALLY]

Time to hunker down and get after it!

 

[Chancegoodman]

Time to hunker down and get after it!

im using this thread as a way to force myself to actually start keep deadlines lol

 

[Dirt Yota]

I had a 96’ single cab manual with the 4.3L V6, man that thing ripped! Looking forward to watch this truck come to life!

 

[Chancegoodman]

I had a 96’ single cab manual with the 4.3L V6, man that thing ripped! Looking forward to watch this truck come to life!

its going to be slow updates but itll get their

 

[UR_Mawm69]

itll get their

only part that matters!

hopefully this is a cool S10 in the end! considering ive only seen, not even, a handful of cool fully built S10s! Bodgjsters is......... right on the edge for me, of sick as fuck cause its got beams AND gay as fuck because its owned by a heyzoos freak.




JUST KIDDING BODgodSTERS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
DON'T YELL AT ME!
@the bodj

 

[UR_Mawm69]

do you have a motor for it/planned for it? what is it/do you plan to get, as far as a V8?

 

[Chancegoodman]

do you have a motor for it/planned for it? what is it/do you plan to get, as far as a V8?

Engine plan for it is to steal the lq4 from my work and rebuild it slap lq9 pistons in it with some 243 heads with a thumpy cam unless I can find something stupid for it like a scat v4 lol
And behind that pair it with a 4l80 with reverse manual valve body

 

[Chancegoodman]

Got bored this weekend and mounted some buckets seats thet I have had laying around for it.
Since this is kinda of a temporary thing I just make some adapter brackets do it will just mount to the stock sear sliders along with that I took out the 2 15” subs the truck has since they would never fit in the truck later on
Also if anyone has an extra butt pad laying around for some beard seats I need one

 

[Mullen]

With moving the front end 3" forward, what's your plan for steering?

 

[Chancegoodman]

With moving the front end 3" forward, what's your plan for steering?

I believe we’re going to have to just remake the drag link to make it work with the steering box nothing too crazy

 

[Mullen]

I believe we’re going to have to just remake the drag link to make it work with the steering box nothing too crazy

I think moving the steering box may be in your future. When I was building OBS Chevys all day long with 1" forward lower uniballs, I would lose a good amount of steering angle with the box in the stock location.

 

[the bodj]

I'd 100% move the box forward. It's really not that hard and will make things so much easier.

 

[Chancegoodman]

I think moving the steering box may be in your future. When I was building OBS Chevys all day long with 1" forward lower uniballs, I would lose a good amount of steering angle with the box in the stock location.

I will have to keep that in mind

 

[badvada]

With moving the front end 3" forward, what's your plan for steering?

Stock 4xs10 the balljoint mounts off the rear of the drag link. On these kits I build the new tie rod mounts on the front of the drag link moving the steering forward

 

[badvada]

I'd 100% move the box forward. It's really not that hard and will make things so much easier.

That's entirely unnecessary on my mid travel kit that's 2"wider 3 forward the steering worked perfect in stock location and extended stock tie rods. On the LT kit I made for chance the only reason the steering needs to move forward is to clear the coilover. And as I just stated all that has to be done is move the pivot to in front of the drag link instead of behind

 

[Mullen]

Stock 4xs10 the balljoint mounts off the rear of the drag link. On these kits I build the new tie rod mounts on the front of the drag link moving the steering forward

For what it's worth I did the same thing with the OBS C1500 when only pushing the wheels 1" forward.

 

[badvada]

For what it's worth I did the same thing with the OBS C1500 when only pushing the wheels 1" forward.

The 2wd frame is vastly different then the 4wd frame on both s10 and 1500. In most scenarios moving the pivots forward does require moving the steering as well. However I had more steering with the steering in stock location. Completely different chassis will have completely different issues

 

[Chancegoodman]

Small update finally got the time to breakdown the coilovers and bump stops . The shafts of the bumps had pitting and corrosion on them so I’m going to send those out to be rechromed and the coilover shafts I was a dumbass and scratch one and fucked the rod end threads when I was change to a shorter rod end on the other so I’ll be getting those cleaned up as well. The shim stack didn’t look too aggressive on ethier so for the mean time the valving will stay the same