The Grand Tracker (Retard TT)

[Turboyota]

Yeah i hate those, these wound up working out perfect. Now to get the damn fan shroud to work. I may try a high powered electric fan from a car/truck

I have a bunch of Spal fans sitting around that I’d love to trade for something cool.

Mostly 8-12” flavors

 

[Fenix Motorsports]

Spal Fans are the way, especially if space is a concern and budget isn't (they are a bit pricey as far as fans go) I have 'em on both my jeep and my c10 and never had issues with either overheating, I don't even have a shroud on the jeep either.

 

[84projectFORD]

Taurus fan shroud aint going to work. Might be able to make a mark 8 fan work.

Spals were the first thing i was looking at but i dont feel they move the amount of air newer electric fans do on modern vehicles. Could be wrong.

 

[84projectFORD]

Just realized, this old girl aint a “local legend” any more? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[85Yota]

Got replaced by a bigger more retarded diesel turd

 

[84projectFORD]

Got replaced by a bigger more retarded diesel turd

Buddy… thats hard to do. Im pretty god damn retarded and my diesel has 100k in it only to run 13’s

 

[84projectFORD]

Alright, where the fuck we at here…

Ah yeah, fuckin fan shroud issuse.

After multiple iterations of fan shroud repairs, i was about to ditch the mechanical fan but wanted to give it one more shot. Lots of plastic welding with chinee prastic sticker togethererer, hot melty wire chingadera, and a 1/2”x1/8” flat strap around the fan circle for support, think we got a chance. Also trimmed the shroud so the fan blades are 1/4-1/3 outside the shroud as ive read dis mo betta.





There is a nice foam edge around the whole perimeter to seal to the the radiator.

Jumped into fixing the driver side front body mount from there. Pretty damn sure i never updated on here about doing the passenger side but the jap crap metal was trying to allow the body mount into the cab. Anyhow, both sides got 1/4”x3” flat plate on bottom, 1/8”x1.5” on the front and 1/8”x.75” on back. Bad shit has gotta happen for that to come apart. Welds absolutely suuuuucked. Between a finger band sander, torch and scraper, grinder and brake clean, i could NOT get all the god damn undercoating off for smooth welds. Basically had to weld it, grind them and reweld.



Yes there is a gap on the one side, its due to the gay ass widening suzuki did. No i aint fixng it till its an issue

Once that was done, topped all the shocks and bumps off with nitrogen and checked the rear links for play. After 9 years and 40k miles, the lower link fk heims are finally showing play. Cant bitch about that. Ill throw new ones in after KOH.

 

[84projectFORD]

Ah fuck, forgot about the light switch dick that supports the top of the shroud since it wants to pull in at 6k rpm and fan fully locked in

Simple

Effective

Does the job

I tell my wife this after every “session”

 

[84projectFORD]

Preran KOH desert course with no issues while taking course notes. Had a fun time racing, placed 3rd in class only to have it removed for bullshit reasons but we aint going down that road…

Left it pretty much untouched and a few weeks later, brought it out to the parker legacy race to be chase vehicle/crew mover. Smashed a bunch of whoops to and from camp to qualifying for fun and jumped the railroad crossing loaded down with everyone

Now got a trip comin up in April and she needs a little tlc. Prior to the legacy race, i did a quick check over and the rear lower link heims have finally got play in them after 7 years and 40k miles. They are just FK JMX14t-770’s (and L’s). Never expected them to last that long. Also need to brace the front radius arms (think they finally bent them selves back straight) and fix a few rattles.

 

[84projectFORD]

Yup… as per usual, what should just be a couple things turns into a list [emoji1787].

Popped the hood and found the top rad mounts trying to tear from the core support. Im done fuckin with that. The core support moves too much compared to the frame. So added some bracing to the bottom and may add some from the engine brace that goes over the motor to the rad. Then everything moves with the frame

Next i found the muffler trying to create its own permanent verison of a cut out. It was cracking where it broke before, just behind the exit of the muffler. It was $30 bucks, i aint mad. Welded the crack back up and used some .060 sheet metal to it to brace it

If it dies again, time for something different

Wanted to add rear limit straps because im going quick enough now the rear is dropping out quickly on jumps or down hills at speed and slamming the rear shocks down. After cycling the rear end, figured out i can put the straps off the axle truss and bump stop mount. Didnt like all the weight yanking on just the one tab off the bump mount so i added another tab thats welded to the frame. Used a little .015 thick shock valve shim to give me some wiggle room

Found the pass side had very little room where i needed to mount on the truss. The holes they put in the truss are not equal space side to side so i filled one hole to give me enough steel for the strap. Gotta order the straps too

Da missing hole!

Tighted up the rf wheel bearing a bit.
Did a quick toe adjustment.
Dropped rear DS to grease the double cardan
Greased all zerks on steering, ball joints, drive shafts, rear link and rear panhard bar

Still need to:
Rear link heims
Put in limit straps when they show
Clean air filter
Fix the back door rattle
Check nitrogen pressures

 

[UR_Mawm69]

Looks gay still.

 

[Chancegoodman]

The sticker on the shock made me think I was having a stroke

 

[Turboyota]

The sticker on the shock made me think I was having a stroke

*stloke

 

[84projectFORD]

The sticker on the shock made me think I was having a stroke

Mmmm keen eyes there. That may or may not have been purposely placed in said picture