Single 3.0 Coilover vs Dual 2.5's

[SHOP WERX]

Fox 2.5x2.5 bump in the front

You definitely have enough shock and bump stop to make it boogey. Tuning is everything. I cant remember the exact number, but it took me 4 or 5 tries to get my 2.5's where i liked them. Each time was more and more compression.

 

[the bodj]

I have 2.5x12 c/o and 2.5 bump shortened to 2” on the front (TTB), and 2.5x14 c/o and 2.0x4” bump in the rear (4 link). I have it working really well all around, but some compromises in each area. It’s plush so comfortable on razor chatter, but a bit soft for stuff spaced really far apart.

 

[SHOP WERX]

GNARLY!
Thanks for uploading lol and I thought my jump was big on that hill…..

Yep 14”coil 14” bypass

I think a 12” coil might work well with a 14” bypass.
The 12” coil might fit right under the break booster and master. Squeezing a 14” is a bit of a pain in the ass working around the break stuff.

I did some lurking and saw a little bit of your Link set up on the bronco. If you ever get the time throw some more pictures up. I’m sure there’s a few of us out there that would like to see what you’ve got going on.

The more i think about it, I actually like the idea of running the 12" coilover on the radius arm. If I can make it fit. I dont have the bronco in the garage right now but I could see the brake booster (like you mentioned) and the HVAC box possibly being in the way. Same strategy as a 4 link. Increase the leverage of the sprung weight over the speed sensitive shock, which also reduces shock shaft speeds. All are a big plus for an easier tuning window. I dont think it would have to be that far back on the RA either. Although I would probably need to build new radius arms. I would need them to kick out near the beam to get out from under the frame. Which also helps prevent the beam from bending backwards.

Hmm...now my damn wheels are turning! Definitely going to throw the old girl up on jackstands this weekend. Cycle it a bunch of times, tape measure a whole bunch of things, write nothing down, think of a 1000 different scenarios and solutions, forget all my measurements. Start all over. Sketch a bunch of hieroglyphs with a half eaten crayon. Forget about it for a week. Check back at my drawings, and try to decipher my busch latte induced Da Vinci code!

 

[SHOP WERX]

I have 2.5x12 c/o and 2.5 bump shortened to 2” on the front (TTB), and 2.5x14 c/o and 2.0x4” bump in the rear (4 link). I have it working really well all around, but some compromises in each area. It’s plush so comfortable on razor chatter, but a bit soft for stuff spaced really far apart.

I know the struggle of compromises. I love my suspension being "set to kill" when im down in California. Then I get back to montana, where every bump is hard and square. It'll rattle your teeth out! So I end up driving fast to smooth it out. But, we have this stuff called grass. Its really good at hiding really big, really hard obstacles. Then stuff breaks....

 

[DialedShockPrep]

Simply put, you can’t really beat the additional surface area of a larger piston. Sure TWO pistons is good, but I’d still rather have one larger piston over two “smaller” pistons.
I’ve setup TTB trucks with basically every setup you can think of from 2.0” coilovers and 2.5” bypasses to 3.0”s and 4.0” bypasses. I think a very good happy medium across the board is the King 3.0” IBP shocks with compression adjusters on the resi. You get both position sensitivity and speed sensitivity, you can have a good amount of free bleed for chatter, insane bottom control with the needle locking out the main piston, and tons of spring options with the longer 3.75” coils. Plus the external adjustment of the resi clicker.

Starting with where you are at, I would say things progressively get better starting with;
-Single 2.5” non IBP coilover
-Single 3.0” non IBP coilover
-2.5” coilover and 2.5” bypass (I’d argue some points that the single 3.0” non IBP could be better than this setup, so kinda a tie here)
-Single 3.0” IBP
-2.5” coilover with 3.0” Bypass
From here, anything larger in diameter just helps across the board.

If you already have a bypass, just add a bypass. But there was nothing quite like riding in a big squishy F-150 with a single 3.0” coilover per wheel, no noises, just major smashing big stuff and a lot of laughing and smiles as the truck just ate everything in front of it. I miss Clifford

 

[SHOP WERX]

Simply put, you can’t really beat the additional surface area of a larger piston. Sure TWO pistons is good, but I’d still rather have one larger piston over two “smaller” pistons.
I’ve setup TTB trucks with basically every setup you can think of from 2.0” coilovers and 2.5” bypasses to 3.0”s and 4.0” bypasses. I think a very good happy medium across the board is the King 3.0” IBP shocks with compression adjusters on the resi. You get both position sensitivity and speed sensitivity, you can have a good amount of free bleed for chatter, insane bottom control with the needle locking out the main piston, and tons of spring options with the longer 3.75” coils. Plus the external adjustment of the resi clicker.

Starting with where you are at, I would say things progressively get better starting with;
-Single 2.5” non IBP coilover
-Single 3.0” non IBP coilover
-2.5” coilover and 2.5” bypass (I’d argue some points that the single 3.0” non IBP could be better than this setup, so kinda a tie here)
-Single 3.0” IBP
-2.5” coilover with 3.0” Bypass
From here, anything larger in diameter just helps across the board.

If you already have a bypass, just add a bypass. But there was nothing quite like riding in a big squishy F-150 with a single 3.0” coilover per wheel, no noises, just major smashing big stuff and a lot of laughing and smiles as the truck just ate everything in front of it. I miss Clifford

Thanks for a response directly regarding shocks! I dont have a bypass shock, or a 3.0 coil over. Trying to decide on what to purchase is my dilemma. I do not have any real world experience comparing a single 3.0 vs dual 2.5's. Without getting technical and long winded on the fluid dynamics of it all. I would probably agree the difference is minimal. There's many benefits that come from a larger piston. Its not as simple as a 3.0 is 44% more than a 2.5, and two 2.5's is 100% more gooder haha.

This weekend I'm going to break out the jack stands, remove the wheels and coilovers, and cycle the hell out of it. I want to find what my max travel could safely and realistically be. Decide how far down the radius arm the coilover mount would need to be to achieve the correct motion ratio, (with my 2.5 x 12) and if the coilover has room to be mounted there (upper shock mount may be tricky). If thats all possible, Ill probably go with an external bypass. If I cant make that work, ill probably go with some Solid Shock Company 3.0x14 ibp coilovers.

Is that a logical plan?

Any place to find/see the details on clifford?