Dual IBP shock package

I think it’s a great idea. If you need more shock, then add an affordable shock, right? I can make these 4.0’ IBP in, any length, however you want the reservoir, clock it to fit whatever you got for $1,450. each.

“1450” the peoples shock! Haha
 

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I think it’s a great idea. If you need more shock, then add an affordable shock, right? I can make these 4.0’ IBP in, any length, however you want the reservoir, clock it to fit whatever you got for $1,450. each.

“1450” the peoples shock! Haha
That sounds awesome!
I know it may be lame but, I’m currently not sure how interested how interested I am in the idea of having mix matched shock brands currently though!
 
What were all saying is it’s gonn work perfectly good with just a coilover each corner. A second shock of any kind will also only help not hurt
Well man, I very much appreciate your input on this, it’s definitely making me take this option a lot more seriously having some good feedback from those who have a lot more dirt miles than myself!
 
I think the shock builders are saying there is a cheaper way to get essentially the same performance you're looking for.

My truck is strapped at 16" in the front and 21" in the back (about 8" up travel in front and 12" out back).
Well I’m now definitely leaning towards it a lot more after this thread, it’s awesome to such great response to the idea and people who get the reasoning behind it
 
Are you set on running dual IBP’s? What is your concern with running say a King 3.0 smoothie? You can add clickers and King will even build them with a bottom port reservoir if you want. Im just not sure why you think you need an IBP coilover and IBP secondary shock.
 
Are you set on running dual IBP’s? What is your concern with running say a King 3.0 smoothie? You can add clickers and King will even build them with a bottom port reservoir if you want. Im just not sure why you think you need an IBP coilover and IBP secondary shock.
I already have IBP Coilovers for the front and rear. I felt like it could be an advantage to just do IBP for the smoothies as well due to the added tuning capabilities.
Trying to get the most I can I guess without having to listen to check valves click through the cab cage I guess.
Would the bottom port be better you think?
 
Something I did with my truck is rely on the lower spring to help with bottoming resistance by utilizing the spring stop nuts. Huge difference going from 196# to 450# (even more when for preload)
 
Something I did with my truck is rely on the lower spring to help with bottoming resistance by utilizing the spring stop nuts. Huge difference going from 196# to 450# (even more when for preload)
My truck sits in the secondary stops at ride height on the front. 450 upper, 600 lower.
 
If you decide standard bypasses, you can mount them on bushings and that’ll cut down on noise drastically
I have seen people do that too! The other possible benefit is if I went to a smoothie with the resi mounted like a normal bypass would be I could always add the tubes later, just buy the new bodies, at least I think that’s how it would work lol

And I may run it as is with the single IBP for a bit , but I’ll have that open spot on the link for more down the road. I just think a secondary shock would be a massive difference in valving to use, especially getting a large diameter shock could add a lot more performance I’d think.
 
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I already have IBP Coilovers for the front and rear. I felt like it could be an advantage to just do IBP for the smoothies as well due to the added tuning capabilities.
Trying to get the most I can I guess without having to listen to check valves click through the cab cage I guess.
Would the bottom port be better you think?
You do a Free Bleed to cut the noise. Every brand offers it.
 

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You do a Free Bleed to cut the noise. Every brand offers it.
Oh dang! I was able to look those up, feel like it’s kinda crazy I’ve never heard of them before. That definitely seems like it could be the best possible option!

No clicks and they may work really well in conjunction with an IBP Coilover!
 

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To further add to this topic, when it comes to simple builds like single shock trucks, the overall suspension setup plays much more of a role in having a good working truck than just the shock package. I mean it matters across the board with all levels of builds in general, BUT it is further noticed if you can’t band-aid things with large shocks.
For example, up travel numbers from ride height will make or break this setup moreso than something with a large 4/5/6/7 tube bypass. I’d try and set a single coilover shock truck up around 60-65% up travel vs a standard truck can be 50% up. Having more up travel at ride height is highly beneficial due to not having additional zones to catch the truck as it compresses, you can and should have the springs helping with that regardless though. If I were to put together something following the mindset you have, I’d be doing everything possible to get as much up travel in the front as possible along with fitting the largest coilover shocks I could fit (king offers a 3.5” now) Once you get that squared away and cycling, you can then move to the rear and set the link geometry and suspension up so the rear bumps 3-4” higher than the front, and has the same or more droop. With beams you should be able to achieve 10-12” of up travel from ride height and 14-16” of up travel in the rear, total numbers swinging around 18-20” front and 22-26” rear with an 18” rear shock. Danny G’s F250 truck is a prime example of that.
Don’t over complicate it with dual shocks and extra bump zones/needles and such, keep it simple and easy to tune and work on. People severely underestimate what a decent setup truck can do with a 2.5” shock much less a 3.0”
 
To further add to this topic, when it comes to simple builds like single shock trucks, the overall suspension setup plays much more of a role in having a good working truck than just the shock package. I mean it matters across the board with all levels of builds in general, BUT it is further noticed if you can’t band-aid things with large shocks.
For example, up travel numbers from ride height will make or break this setup moreso than something with a large 4/5/6/7 tube bypass. I’d try and set a single coilover shock truck up around 60-65% up travel vs a standard truck can be 50% up. Having more up travel at ride height is highly beneficial due to not having additional zones to catch the truck as it compresses, you can and should have the springs helping with that regardless though. If I were to put together something following the mindset you have, I’d be doing everything possible to get as much up travel in the front as possible along with fitting the largest coilover shocks I could fit (king offers a 3.5” now) Once you get that squared away and cycling, you can then move to the rear and set the link geometry and suspension up so the rear bumps 3-4” higher than the front, and has the same or more droop. With beams you should be able to achieve 10-12” of up travel from ride height and 14-16” of up travel in the rear, total numbers swinging around 18-20” front and 22-26” rear with an 18” rear shock. Danny G’s F250 truck is a prime example of that.
Don’t over complicate it with dual shocks and extra bump zones/needles and such, keep it simple and easy to tune and work on. People severely underestimate what a decent setup truck can do with a 2.5” shock much less a 3.0”
I do believe that uptravel has been heavily kept in mind for this truck. I opted to Izzy fabs race kit that offers an optional taller set of shock towers, although packaging is much more difficult it allows a much higher up travel than all the other race kits on the market. Cab is also lowered to sit on the frame. The rear is Izzy’s back half kit already and has also had its own “editing” it pull a little more up travel out of it. Wheel base shortened 15” from stock so it’s 130.5”
I’ll be keeping a lot of what you said in mind for setting the ride hight and maybe just wait on the secondary shocks for the time being. I also have some brand new 3.0 3 tubes for the front right now that I can dip my toes into the clicking and truly see how much we hate it or if we really just don’t mind it with the headsets on.
 
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