Reducing the reliability of a first gen Tundra (01 2wd->4wd S/C Build)


Mar 7, 2023
2001 Toyota Tundra SR5 Access Cab V8 2WD 4WD SC

"if I am going to do the work, I may as well do it how I wanted"

I decided in July of 2023 after getting back from a work trip in Dubai and landing that sweet sweet travel pay, that rather than fix all the annoying things that were bugging me about the truck, I would bolt a range rover TVS1900 supercharger on the stock 2uz. I hilariously thought I could do this for about $5k... so I decided to ruin the reliability of the famously reliable truck. Did I mention that I am an idiot?


Spec overview: 2001 Toyota Tundra SR5 2WD 4WD


Elate Manufacturing Intercooled TVS 1900 Manifold (
2010 Range Rover 5.0 TVS 1900 Supercharger
Frozen Boost Intercooler Heat Exchanger (
Cobra Intercooler Pump
SEP Fuel Filter: (https://www.snakeeaterperformance.c...less-10-micron-filters?variant=42384807657701)
Bosch Pro Series 540LPH Fuel Pump: (https://www.snakeeaterperformance.c...sal-in-tank-fuel-pumps?variant=39246934409265)
Bosch EV14 550 Fuel Injectors
Fuelab Adjustable FPR
ASP Underdrive Pulley: (Home -
SSAutochrome Shorty Headers and Y Pipe: (
Spintech 3000XL SS Dual 2.25" Inlet, Single 3" Outlet Muffler: (
Magnaflow 2.25” “Spun Cat” Catalytic Converter: (
Champion Cooling Aluminum Radiator: (2000-2001-2002-2003-2004-2005-2006-Toyota-Tundra -
HPS Silicone Radiator Hoses: (HPS Black Reinforced Silicone Radiator Hose Kit Coolant Toyota 99-03 Tundra V8 -

Ebay Air Intake
Volant Donaldson Power Core Air Filter

Switchpros SP9100 (
MF1050 Air Compressor (MF-1050 Tsunami Air Compressor -
Jim's Machineworx Battery Terminals
1000W Renogy pure sine wave power inverter
GEP PDU/Relay Boxes
Blue Sea Systems Push Button Circuit Breakers


Transmission/Transfer Case/Driveline

2004 A340F 4wd Transmission
14X5.5X1.58" Dual Pass -10AN Transmission Cooler with Fans: (
Radesigns Winters Shifter with electronic control system (Winters-Elec. Control Kits -
2000 J Shift Manual Transfer Case
Hendrix Motorsports Billet Aluminum Carrier Bearing: (

Front End
2000 7.5” Clamshell Front Differential
4.56 Yukon Gears
Toyota Supra Limited Slip
ECGS Solid Bearing Spacer
Locked ADD Actuator
94.5 Tacoma Manual Locking Hub Swap
Aftermarket Spindle Hubs
OEM Wheel Bearings and Seals
OEM Manual Lockout Hubs
DTA Tacoma Outer Axles
OEM Tundra Inner Axles

Rear End
GM 12 Bolt Truck Rear Axle
Yukon Heat Treated Axle Shafts
Mark Williams Enterprises Steel Bearing Cap
Mark Williams Enterprises 1310 Yoke
Low Range Offroad Toyota to 1310 U Joint: (
Detroit Tru-Trac Differential
Yukon Gear 4.56 Gears
Moser Bearing Support Diff Cover

Brake Hydraulics

Toyota 4runner Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster
T100 1-Ton Master Cylinder
Wilwood Adjustable Proportioning Valve (Wilwood 260-12627: Proportioning Valve Knob Adjust - JEGS -
LSPV Delete
Wheelers Offroad Extended Rear Brake Line ( Currently too short

Front Brakes
2006 Tundra Brake Update

Rear Brakes
Custom Brake Caliper Mounts
2007 Toyota Sequoia rear brake calipers and rotors
Custom hub centering rings
Wilwood parking brake calipers


Front Suspension

Donahoe Racing (Icon) Extended Travel Coilovers (Products - Icon Vehicle Dynamics -
Camburg Uni-Ball Upper Control Arms (
Sway Bar Delete
Total Chaos Fab Steering Rack Bushings (Toyota Tundra 2000-2006 POLYURETHANE STEERING RACK BUSHING KIT | TOTAL CHAOS FABRICATION -
Total Chaos Fab Double Shear Plates
Total Chaos Fab Spindle Brace
Total Chaos Fab Uniball Adapters and Misalignment Spacers

Rear Suspension
Deaver G57 Spring Over Leaf Springs
Custom Rear Cantilever Suspension
FOA 10” Travel Remote Reservoir Shocks
Airlift Dominator 2600 Airbags
Daystar Air Bag Cradles
G2 1.5” Wheelspacers

Custom Bedcage
TT Motorsports “Harbor Freight” Jack Skid (TT Motorsports 1.5 Ton Floor Jack Skid Plate and Quick Release Mount | tt-motorsports -
Quick Release Fire Extinguisher Mount
US Cargo Control "Airline" L-Track (L-Track - Heavy Duty Airline Track Tie Down -
Viair 5 Gallon Air tank (5.0 Gallon Air Tank | VIAIR Corporation -
40MM Ammo Cans

Required for service/repair

Recovery Gear
Shop Towels
Solar Charger
First Aid
Air Hose
12k Winch

Trans Fluid
Diff Fluid
Brake Fluid
40MM Ammo Can Locks

Aftermarket “Black” Headlight Housings (
TRS Morimoto BI-LED Projector Retrofit (,54340,49863)
Nilight 7” LED Spot Pattern Lights
Nilight 2X3 18W Dust Lights
Nilight 2X3 18W Reverse Lights
KC Hilights Cyclone Amber Rock/Service Lights (KC® Cyclone LED Rock Lights / Accessory Lights - Multi-Colors & Lenses | KC HiLiTES® -

Alpine Android Auto Head Unit (iLX-W650 Bundle with KTA-450 -
Firestick Antenna (CATALOG Main Page (Frame Setup) -
Sony Xplod 800w Amp
Kicker S8L5 Subs under rear seat
Infinity Reference Speakers
Raamat Sound Deadner
10.1 Digital Dash Conversion

Roadrunner Fiberglass Front Fenders
Pulled Rear Fenders
Custom Rear Hitch
2006 Tundra Grille

How’s it run? What are you doing for tuning?
I'll let you know when it runs, I am finishing up the wiring and waiting in the exhaust.

I have a mapecu3 piggyback setup that I am using for timing control to adjust timing on top of the stock ecu so I keep throttle and knock control.

My base curve is set to pull 1 degree of timing per pound of boost unless its on ethanol. It also handles fuel control adjustments for things like flex fuel and different sized injectors and in my case boost. There are a couple of landcruiser guys using it with success but they have also said they ran this sc at 5psi with the stock ecu, stock injectors, and a rising rate fuel pump and the engine was happy so who knows.

I am using a megasquirt 3 for logging and dash control since I can use the CAN bus to talk to an aem can expansion module and the widebands. I had planned to use a microsquirt for this but they use their own weird CAN protocol whereas the megasquirt 3 can talk to normal can stuff.

Since the new fuel pump is so much bigger than stock, I had to run a dedicated power feed from the battery back to the tank and bypass the stock circuit.

I ran -6an lines for fuel from the tank up to the motor and hooked into the stock return lines, we will see if that is enough size or not once I get some logs.

The pulley on the rr tvs 1900 is really small but I got lucky in that I already had an underdrive pulley so I choukd be in the 5-7psi range. Again, the logs will tell that once its running. If the boost is higher than that, I will need to get a bigger charger pulley so I don't pop the rods.

-6 line will be plenty as long as the pump keeps up. I’ve run -6 on 700hp v8s.

Inside source told me the issue with the 1uz’s blowing up with TRD super chargers was all a tuning glitch. In stock form the rev limiter cuts spark AND fuel to random cylinders. With the TRD piggy back and additional injectors (to cover the extra needed fuel) when the engine hit the rev limiter it shut off the additional fueling entirely making the engine go very lean. This caused the bulk of the broken rod issues.
Ooh good to know. I had assumed it was really bad spark knock but the fuel cut plus spark makes more sense. I always wondered how yota got the timing table that wrong, they are usually pretty good about tunes.

Tundra Manual Hub Outer Conversion

Strictly speaking, this is not the right way to do this but it is how I had to do it because the axles wouldn't pop off the retaining ring.

Start with a DTA Manual hub axle for a 95 Tacoma and an OEM Tundra shaft. You only need the outer CV assembly from the taco so feel free to destroy the rest, its not useful as it uses the tripod inner and the axle is too short.

Step 1: Remove the boots and don't take pictures of that. Instead, post a picture of the shaft as it came in the mail to leave people confused.


Step 2, clear out the grease from around the CV joint and attempt to pop the outer CV off the shaft by doing your best impression of a shakeweight. I used my hydraulic press base to act as a stop so I could pull the shaft hard down and let the cv hit the top of it. Clearly I have weak arms because it didn't work. Fling grease everywhere in the process and again, don't take pictures of that. It sets false expectations.


Step 3: Give up giving yourself a workout with your shaft and instead cut the shaft off short enough to rotate the star so the balls come out of the cage. Again, only take minimal pictures because it keeps them guessing and you had to figure this out on your own after all.


Step 4: Once all the balls are removed, pop the star out of the joint and remove the c-clip from the end of the now circumcised shaft. Pop the stump out and put in the scrap bin. Your CV joint should now be disassembled. You will only be keeping the balls, star, cage, and outer. Dispose of the rest, or don't I am not going to tell you how to live your life.


Step 5: Clean everything unless you want to do this all again in 3 months when you grenade your CVs. Your parts pile should look more of less like this. Don't mix the parts up, every knows that these are sold as matched units of the utmost precision and not made by a conglomerate of the lowest bidders. Ignore the Tundra shafts, those are not ready yet. We will prepare them next.


Step 6: Repeat steps 1 and 2 with the Tundra shaft. When the stock Tundra outer also refuses to reach completion, remember that you can't cut the shaft this time, you need that shaft. Only it will do. Instead, cut the outer CV housing remembering to curse whoever used a square cut retaining ring with an insufficiently large lead in chamfer. Enjoy the smell of used cv grease, burning as you use abrasives to make dust and sparks out of metal. You will need to cut ~1/3 of the joint to get enough room to pop the star out once you remove your balls. Remove the star from the shaft and curse the engineer who did this to you one final time.


Step 7: Flip the Tundra shaft around and remove the boot, you will see a strange device known as a visible retaining ring. This truly novel device that should have been used on BOTH sides allows easy removal of the inner CV. Remove it and pack the inside of the joint with show towels. We will be cutting just the tip on the inner for some sick gnar travel extension as shown in the following two pictures.


Before on the left, after on the right.


Step Ocho: Reassemble the outer joint using the manual hub parts. Make sure you use the parts that came with the new joint and not the OEM parts. Despite being the same they are not made to the same tolerance. Pre-grease the joint and make sure the star has the flat side of the star facing the shoulder on the shaft. The chamfered side should go towards the C-clip. Remember it is important to not take pictures. Pro tip, install both boots onto the shaft before putting the joints on. Fill the boots with grease, I used the expensive red stuff for cvs from redline so it was easier to see where it went when the boots tear.

Step 9: Get yourself some nice high angle boots for the inner joints now that there is nowhere to put the stock style and cinch them down gutentight with some stainless oetaker clamps. Don't replace the chinese outer cv boots, you will thank yourself for not spending that time and money now when you get to redo the entire thing 3 months later when the cheap boot tears and flings grease ALL OVER YOUR TRUCK


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J Shift to Cable Transfer Case Conversion

I don't recommend this because it seems to have been why I destroyed a t-case but it could also have been coincidence that I roasted a t-case after doing this. Who knows. I just want to post the bracket because I like how it came out. It is not installed anymore. After installing a new t-case, I swapped back to the standard J shift with a much more normal shifter.
















Winters Shifter Install

The stock shift arm was too fat to fit in the crack between the shaft and the trans so I had to make a new arm. The mount also didn't line up with any of the bolt holes. A+ setup guys... The transfer case shift boot I am using is from some mustang. I can look it up later. Its been good 3 years on.









It's not finished but it was good enough to leave for a year. I currently have the top cut off so I can stash my megasquirt in it.

Wideband Mount

Speaking of ECU Stuff. I needed a place to mount my timing controller. Not having much room, I made a mount to connect it to the dash bar and mount my two widebands on it.














Fits nicely and is out of the way in space I couldn't use before.

Electrical Bulkhead

I am running a bunch of auxiliary sensors to try and keep that sweet sweet lump of Japanese precision iron from spitting rods out the block. That means I needed to get those wires into the megasquirt somehow. Rather than run a rubber grommet like a skrub, I went with Amphenol bulkhead connectors, because this is basically a trophy truck. To fit those, I could have drilled some holes in the firewall but this isn't amateur hour. Pack that shit up and go home with your twist and taped wires and your self tapping screws. No, I spent 4 days meticulously planning out my wiring, counting my connector pin requirements, calculating amperage and scheming to make this a bolt on affair.







Then I stepped back to look at what I had made and found out I am bad at counting so I hacked it up and made an uglier one with room for bigger connectors, more wires, and subpar welds.






I sprayed it with some chassis black after not cleaning the welds enough because this actually is amateur hour, get off my lawn.

TVS Time

Since I am writing this out of order, I will jump back to the supercharger now, Time is a flat circle, order is meaningless, here are some blower pictures. To get this to work the way I wanted it to, I needed to make some adjustments. From Elate, it comes machined with the injector bosses for the Toyota Denso style injectors. I wasn't thrilled with trying to find a good set of those with the 550cc size I wanted from a non-sketchy source and I wasn't going to pay ID prices. Instead, I went the smart route and "machined" some inserts that I pressed into the injector bosses to take standard Bosch ev14s.

This only took me buying a fixture for my drill press, a special drill bit, a reamer, another reamer, some aluminum bar stock, and locktite bearing bond for me to make something that will likely be a massive vaccum/boost leak.

Ahhh, doing it right the first time feels soo good.
















Blower on, blower off, blower on, blower off.

Now began the fun part. Dry fitting.

I assembled the manifold and had to see what was what, then found allllll the things I had to fiddle with. The elate kit requires you to cut and turn the stock water crossover outlet. I am a terrible aluminum welder but it held pressure and hasn't exploded off the truck yet so I am calling it a win even if it is ribbed for her pleasure.

I then reinstalled the blower only to decide that I wanted to add another water temp sensor which meant pulling the blower to remove the water crossover again, drill a hole for a 3/8 npt bung, then weld the bung on, find leaks, weld the pinholes, reinstall the crossover, then reinstall the blower.

Then I decided, hey, I should add an IAT sensor for the motor post-intercooler so I get good readings. so the blower had to come off again. The elate manifold helpfully has 3 1/8" npt ports under the manifold so you can have that super clean install with no visible wires or hoses. I found a super fast reading 1/8" npt iat sensor and slapped that bad boy into the bung and ran a boost reference line to one of the others. I threw the blower back on and looked at how good it looked. Then I noticed it was wobbly and found out that the water pipes under the manifold foul on the sensor and boost line and I couldn't use any of those ports. So the blower came back off and I plugged those.




I took that opportunity to replace the starter, starter connections, knock sensor connectors, and added 2 1/8" npt ports to the top of the blower (where they should have been to start) for the IAT sensor and boost reference line.






Then I took the blower back off to make a bunch of other parts.

Mini Manifold, FPR, and TB Mount

Since I knew the plumbing situation would be messy, I made a miniature boost/vac manifold that bolts to 2 of the existing holes in the blower. I am taking the boost reference from one of the 1/8" npt ports I added to the top, the vac side is referenced from one of the existing holes in the blower snout that I drilled and tapped for 1/8" npt. Its made of some scarp 3/4" aluminum plate I had from another project.

The stock 00-04 Tundra throttle body is enormous and doesn't come anywhere close to fitting on the drive snout. I made 2 flanges from 3/8" aluminum with a slight counterbore to match the OD of a tight radius 3.5"? cast aluminum elbow that I tacked in place to check fitment. It works, I have not finish welded it yet though.

I also had to make a mount for my flex fuel sensor and 10micron fuel filter. I scabbed together some bolts from my old mini cooper and some 11 gauge plate and found a spot on the frame that I could bolt it up to without drilling holes. It works okay but is kind of in the open. I may eventually make a skid plate for it. Then I tossed the blower on for the last time and tightened up the bolts.

If you look closely you can see my sketchy throttle cable mount in the last picture. It was a pain in the ass to make, I need a mill or something.














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Relay Box Mount.

I needed somewhere to stash my pdm box so I made some room in space with this neat little battery tray. It indexes on the stock holes and holds the battery where it is supposed to sit. I have room for my catch can on the bottom, and the relay box, + 5 push button circuit breakers on the side. I also added a bar to ziptie wires to. I have since swapped the 3 relay box for a universal one, details on that later.

On the passengers side, I made a new PS res mount and washer fluid holder, its functional.











Also don't @me about the writing on the headlights, I did a project with my wife, it was fun so I dated it. Bite me.

Intercooler Res Mount

I needed somewhere to mount my IC res, this didn't require drilling any (new) holes. I messed up my spacing and had to scab the thing back together, no I will not be fixing it. Yes, it was flux core mig welded, how did you guess?

I also mounted the intercooler pump, its kind of sketchy being on the airbag sensor mount, I may end up moving it but I like how the plumbing routing turned out.












Looks like a fun project.
It started out that way and quickly spiraled out of control lol. I though I had a decent plan to get thing wrapped up but then kid #2 was born and my free time disappeared.

Im just trying to get it knocked out so I can have my truck back again. I did the DR mortal sin of thinking about what I could do to a perfectly running truck and parked it for almost a year so far.

Intercooler Mounting

This is the bracket I fabbed to mount the intercooler heat exchanger. Its all 11 gauge steel I grabbed out of the scrap bin at the local metal supermarket. I have since replaced all the crusty fasteners I used to test fit everything with some nice gold cad grade 10.8 mcmaster bling. The intercooler heat exchanger is isolated with some 1/4" pre stick marine traction foam. I use that stuff for padding when I don't want metal to metal. We will see how it holds up here. Worst case, I grab some rubber and swap it out later. The IC bracket required redoing the hood latch and hood release, I chopped the bottom of the hood latch off and changed the tip shape to keep it from bashing the IC core. The hole I cut in the IC bracket was bigger than needed but I didn't feel like scabbing it back in. I did trim back the foam that was sticking out. I did not do enough prep for the paint. That is a problem for future Sean.










Hood Latch is actually easier to use and more secure than stock. 2 fingers is all it takes to get it open. To get it to close, I did have to clearance the grill, I need to clearance it a little more but it works fine for now.





Intercooler Plumbing

I wanted to run hard lines as much as possible for the intercooler heat exchanger so I grabbed a couple of 4 foot sticks of 3/4" stainless steel tubing and a bezosmart manual bender. I whipped these bad boys out on the first try, destroying the 3/4" die in the process. Vevor was nice enough to send a warranty replacement for the whole bender so now I have 2 benders I know I can break even with engineer arms. The bender actually did a pretty decent job for a $99 special but it does add kinks where the tube is held like an amish kid on rumpspringer.

I still need to make a mount to attach the u pipe to the frame and I need to take pictures of my sweet mcmaster rubber isolators to attach the whole thing to the truck. I'll just end up going back to edit this post so you will never know I didn't have the pictures there to start with. Missing pictures also include the sweet stainless pinch clamps and the 90 for the return to ic tank.















Fuel Pump Hanger Replacement

I made a stainless fuel pump holder. Why stainless? Great question! I found a bulkhead fitting for the electrical pass through that I liked that I could get in stainless and thought, why not treat myself? (

Turns out, that bulkhead fitting claims to be able to take 10 gauge wire but in reality only takes ~11 gauge wire. Is that connector a real pain to work with? Yes, yes it is. Did I redo it recently because of how I wanted to run the fuel gauge with the megasquirt? Yes, I did. Was it easlier the third time? No, it wasn't. At least the bulkhead fitting is nice. When I redo the rear suspension and pull the tank again, I will likely redo the AN bulkhead fittings to be weld on -6an rather than the bolt on ones but that's a problem for future Sean.

The fuel pump is from SEP and is a giant Bosch pump rated for 540lph. I picked that pump because at lower pressures, it has lower current draw and is supposedly rated for e100. Its also supposedly got a lifetime warranty so, bonus. (https://www.snakeeaterperformance.c...sal-in-tank-fuel-pumps?variant=39246934409265)