Rear End Full Floater Hubs? Options and Opinions

[Brett_408]

Hi all, probably beating a dead horse with this topic but I'm going to piece a floater rear end together for my 94 bronco because my 8.8 is on its way out. I'm trying to be as cost conscious as you can be when building a floater. So I want to here your guys thoughts and opinions on which floater hub kits are cost effective but more importantly quality as well and even housing options. Housing needs to be 3.5" tubes and that really my only requirement. Hubs I'd prefer 40 spline but also open to 35 spline options like a dana 60 type deal.

Iv owned a 31 Spline floater Schreiner rear end and had issues with the hub nuts and lock rings coming loose. That being said i've head decent things about there fabricated housing and 40 spline hubs. I have also built a Ruff Stuff housing with Jamar 2.5" hubs. Jamar hubs are second to none with quality, fit and finish they also preformed flawless for the few years I ran them higher end on budget tho. The Ruff Stuff housing cracked alone the top weld of the 3rd member face plate after 2-3 trips out and leaked bad. That required complete disassembly and reweld ANNOYING!

Any who lets here it.

 

[4xFoorOffroad]

A couple of guys on forums I’m on (including @basikbiker 4 linked 2nd Gen Tacoma on here) use these, they come in 5, 6, and 8 lug. I’ve got them with 0 miles on my truck though so I can’t say how well they’ve been for me. All off the shelf bearings and seals.

https://solidaxle.com/collections/f...8ir_t6kpZmB7resnknFLVygXNEDNIxai9B0gaJOupO1jS

 

[Brett_408]

A couple of guys on forums I’m on (including @basikbiker 4 linked 2nd Gen Tacoma on here) use these, they come in 5, 6, and 8 lug. I’ve got them with 0 miles on my truck though so I can’t say how well they’ve been for me. All off the shelf bearings and seals.

https://solidaxle.com/collections/f...8ir_t6kpZmB7resnknFLVygXNEDNIxai9B0gaJOupO1jS

I'm strongly thinking about that kit. Just worried about longevity with 37's on a 2" spindle.

 

[4xFoorOffroad]

Good point, it’s been awhile so I had to look at this video again but @basikbiker runs 37’s and uses his truck a lot from what I can remember.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pTqe1wYSk-c&t=329s&pp=ygUWVGVycmFjcmV3IHRhY29tYSBiYXNpaw==

And this runs “small” 34’s iirc. Almost always in the sand too, but truck is jumped all the time - he’s broke an axle shaft, a drive slug and a diff I think and the rest of the rearend has held up.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VEQxY2wXMBQ&time_continue=2&source_ve_path=NzY3NTg&embeds_referring_euri=https://www.tacomaworld.com/

I get what you’re saying with the bigger size tires, especially with a full size.

 

[Turboyota]

40 spline Schreiner!

I have the 3.25”x.3125Wall tubes.

After 7000 merciless miles I had to replace an axle seal, other than that, it’s been great.

 

[RMC]

You want the cheap route or the expensive route. I can advise both. Cheap route solid axle industries 5 on 5.5 rear hubs, snouts and bearings. They will fit 35 spline, or you can bore them on a lathe or buy the same part from ruff stuff. There’s two routes to go with solid axle industries front double splined axle shafts and drive pucks similar to a drive plate from kartek or use good old fashioned flanged axle shafts which are 70-% cheaper. Both are full floater.
So one version you use weld in ruff stuff snouts with double splined axle shafts about 900$ a pair for the axles, or…..
D60 rear snouts, flanged axles at 350$ a pair. Hubs same cost, drive pucks additional cost, bearings same cost.
I can build a full float flanged axle shaft version for around 2400$ with wilwood 4 pistons part cost only. Look into solid axle industries products I can steer as needed. Good luck.
If I was you… d60 rear snouts, flanged axle shafts, basic disc brakes with a 4 piston wilwood. Cheap and easy. Order measuring jig from lead mine for axle shaft length. Then hit up Dutchman, Currie, or Branik for roll formed axles shafts flanged cut to length.
Housin should be checked for straightness after welding and bent accordingly.

 

[Brett_408]

40 spline Schreiner!

I have the 3.25”x.3125Wall tubes.

After 7000 merciless miles I had to replace an axle seal, other than that, it’s been great.

Ron called me back yesterday actually $4024 for a complete fabricated rearend with 3.5" tubes and 40spline hubs, axles, rotors and brakes. Everything minus 3rd member. Pretty good price. Hub kits alone with snouts and rotors are $1750.

 

[Brett_408]

You want the cheap route or the expensive route. I can advise both. Cheap route solid axle industries 5 on 5.5 rear hubs, snouts and bearings. They will fit 35 spline, or you can bore them on a lathe or buy the same part from ruff stuff. There’s two routes to go with solid axle industries front double splined axle shafts and drive pucks similar to a drive plate from kartek or use good old fashioned flanged axle shafts which are 70-% cheaper. Both are full floater.
So one version you use weld in ruff stuff snouts with double splined axle shafts about 900$ a pair for the axles, or…..
D60 rear snouts, flanged axles at 350$ a pair. Hubs same cost, drive pucks additional cost, bearings same cost.
I can build a full float flanged axle shaft version for around 2400$ with wilwood 4 pistons part cost only. Look into solid axle industries products I can steer as needed. Good luck.
If I was you… d60 rear snouts, flanged axle shafts, basic disc brakes with a 4 piston wilwood. Cheap and easy. Order measuring jig from lead mine for axle shaft length. Then hit up Dutchman, Currie, or Branik for roll formed axles shafts flanged cut to length.
Housin should be checked for straightness after welding and bent accordingly.

Thanks for all the insight. My last rear end build I had Burleson Design true the housing after all fabrication and welding was done.

 

[RMC]

Here’s some pics to explain the contrast I described above in last comment. First is front hubs used as rear, with drive pucks and is used with axle shafts splined on both ends, very similar to a drive plate style like Pro-am or Jamar.
Second is rear hubs used as rear d60 with flanged axles. Both are true full floaters as the load is spread to hub bearings vs axle shafts in both cases. The only thing I haven’t searched up is 40 spline flanged axles. 35 spline are cheap cheap.
One last note, your standard autozone d60 spanner socket will need to be turned down by about .050 to fit into the flanged hub to tighten the spanner nuts.

Speedway engineering is an option as well that’s pretty affordable with their grand national series full floaters but your back to added cost in double splined axles shafts. Hope this lends some clarity to my earlier comments:

 

[Chancegoodman]

Here’s some pics to explain the contrast I described above in last comment. First is front hubs used as rear, with drive pucks and is used with axle shafts splined on both ends, very similar to a drive plate style like Pro-am or Jamar.
Second is rear hubs used as rear d60 with flanged axles. Both are true full floaters as the load is spread to hub bearings vs axle shafts in both cases. The only thing I haven’t searched up is 40 spline flanged axles. 35 spline are cheap cheap.
One last note, your standard autozone d60 spanner socket will need to be turned down by about .050 to fit into the flanged hub to tighten the spanner nuts.

Speedway engineering is an option as well that’s pretty affordable with their grand national series full floaters but your back to added cost in double splined axles shafts. Hope this lends some clarity to my earlier commen

Stupid question would those snouts be able to convert a for 9” or would a different snout be needed?

 

[4xFoorOffroad]

Stupid question would those snouts be able to convert a for 9” or would a different snout be needed?

Yes it’s a “F69” - the D60 hubs work. That’s what I did.

 

[Brett_408]

Here’s some pics to explain the contrast I described above in last comment. First is front hubs used as rear, with drive pucks and is used with axle shafts splined on both ends, very similar to a drive plate style like Pro-am or Jamar.
Second is rear hubs used as rear d60 with flanged axles. Both are true full floaters as the load is spread to hub bearings vs axle shafts in both cases. The only thing I haven’t searched up is 40 spline flanged axles. 35 spline are cheap cheap.
One last note, your standard autozone d60 spanner socket will need to be turned down by about .050 to fit into the flanged hub to tighten the spanner nuts.

Speedway engineering is an option as well that’s pretty affordable with their grand national series full floaters but your back to added cost in double splined axles shafts. Hope this lends some clarity to my earlier comments:

Does the 14 bolt hub fit the dana 60 spindle?

 

[RMC]

Stupid question would those snouts be able to convert a for 9” or would a different snout be needed?

You can install the snouts on any weldable rear end. I wouldn’t advise 8.8 as plug welds on cast housings break free and it a waste of time but I’ve build many 9” in varying combinations. I think the main take away is not everyone is running 40” Tires and either are a durable affordable full float conversion to most housings. The only ones you have to watch out for are necked down 3.75” and 4” to 3.5 as I believe the snouts are only available in 3.5 od.

 

[RMC]

You can install the snouts on any weldable rear end. I wouldn’t advise 8.8 as plug welds on cast housings break free and it a waste of time but I’ve build many 9” in varying combinations. I think the main take away is not everyone is running 40” Tires and either are a durable affordable full float conversion to most housings. The only ones you have to watch out for are necked down 3.75” and 4” to 3.5 as I believe the snouts are only available in 3.5 od.

 

[RMC]

Great question for solid axle industry. I just finished assembling a set into a 9” recently but we had to get bearings elsewhere as they were out of stock. It all fit up though once right bearings were receieved

 

[RMC]

I do remember they were out of stock on bearings and yes rear snouts fit rear hubs once we located correct bearings from third party. Bearing sizes were provide by solid axle. On that note I have a front drive puck style assembly here and they are bolt on flanged snouts not weld in line rear snouts. I’d imagine they use d60 front and rear to simplify part numbers but keep in mind the max for this set up is 40 spline but most folks don’t need more that 35 in reality. We aren’t all trophy trucks at 10k lbs with 42 inch tires.

Great question for solid axle industry. I just finished assembling a set into a 9” recently but we had to get bearings elsewhere as they were out of stock. It all fit up though once right bearings were receieved

 

[RMC]

Yes called the d609 by many. Solid cheap alternative

 

[95Bronco]

Ron called me back yesterday actually $4024 for a complete fabricated rearend with 3.5" tubes and 40spline hubs, axles, rotors and brakes. Everything minus 3rd member. Pretty good price. Hub kits alone with snouts and rotors are $1750.

Appreciate the price point as I've been thinking this is the way I'll be going. Been waiting for some kind of miracle used extended width Camburg or Currie rearend to fall into my lap for over a year.

Never heard anything really bad about Schreiner, plus it's not too far from me in AZ.

 

[counterpart7]

Seems like some good options in here! I priced a lot of options out(DIY 9”, 14 bolt, Schreiner) and they all seemed like they would wind up in the $5k+ range(complete w/ 3rd and all that jazz).

It made more sense in my opinion to just get a complete Camburg. 40 spline, 3rd, 2.5 hub, Wilwood brake package, and axles(basically complete less plumbing) ran me right around $9k. Not cheap, but I know everything is right and it should last a long time.

GTS Customs(Weston - he’s a member here), just came out with his fab9 housing. I believe he’s doing complete rear ends for even less than Camburg.

 

[Doubleggregg]

@RMC

the Full floater flanged axle stuff youre talking about. does the wheel fly off if i break an axle? Does anyone make 6 x 5.5 " lug pattern stuff?

I cant believe how much a complete axle is costing these days. i remember when a set of hubs was i think $2000 a housing plus truss was less than $1000 and the labor wasnt a zillion dollars to put it together.

I have a 65.5" wms to wms camburg full floater with 2.25" 35 spline hubs, and a 4:88 3rd member in crates / hanging on wall for probably 5 or 6 years waiting to be put together that i have less than $5k into by a long shot.

Gregg